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I will give it a try. I tested this morning to see if just sitting over night was enough to replicate this and it wasn't. Truck fired right up after sitting ruffly 12 hours. I'm thinking maybe it only does this after a couple days of sitting. Given how loose the leak down specs are for the pumps...

It seems to run without codes now. Although since doing all this now if it sits it will initially fire right up, then died half a second later, if I go to start it again it's fine. Woundering if the new pump is just losing prime or something.

Seems to be resolved now that the truck is back together. I'm not sure it was the EGR, or fuel pump as again the new ones behaved like the old ones. It is fxed for now though. I did add some injector cleaner to the tank and am going to run a bottle or two more through the truck to be on the safe...

PCM on the 94 is driverside under hood. Not easy to get a multimeter on when driving. I will test with it warm and idling after I get it back together if it's still happening though.

I rented a fuel pressure gauge and then ended up buying my own from harbor freight when I determined I might need it for longer. Both gave the same readings so I'm pretty sure its accurate. I don't have an other truck to compare to. Was hoping someone here would be able to chime in an tell me if...

94 Mazda B4000, truck started throwing a 172 code (lean passenger side bank) I haven't been able to get rid of yet. Code does not pop up until I have been driving for awhile which seems consistent for this type of lean code. What I have tried: 1.) Sprayed around engine with carb cleaner...

The short answer is that you can just get a new style electrical connector from a 95+, replace the connector on your 94 or 95, get a 123mm shaft synchronizer (I got a Spectra FD36, listed for a 96), and follow the directions for installing a synchronizer in a 95+ here...

Thanks. Back to my questions, is there an O-ring or a gasket or something behind it that could be leaking? I know there is a rod but as far as I have been able to figure out the switch should seal the hole. I plan on getting it in the garage tomorrow and pulling the carpet back to access the...

Don't think I have a clutch switch (assume you mean pedal). I think it makes the truck not start unless I'm in neutral or clutch down. I never worried about it. Some rangers, explorers, and f150s had them from what I can tell. Tracking down a replacement switch was a bear.

I think they only had them for a few years. Mine is a 94. Here is a diagram, switch in question is 70, the backup light switch is 72. Also I found a photo of the trans from when I had it out a couple years back. Red switch is the backup, opposite side of the trans is the neutral safety switch

Not really about above the fill level, the switch is already above the fill level. There's just not much higher up then that switch, other they the shift handle.

It's a 94, there is a reverse light switch on the drivers side and a neutral switch on the passenger side. Not mine but here is a good picture. The switch in question is the one with the two green wires. The reverse switch is on the opposite side with the red plug...

Not an oil leak. Red ATF, you can actually see it on the switch in the first image. Bell housing and the front of the Trans is dry. I'm scratching my head on where it could be coming from other then that switch. The switch is in the top cover so top cover leak other than up the bolt holes...

Been trying to track down a leak on my M5OD. Seems like the neutral safety switch maybe leaking. I replaced the switch and RTVed the threads hoping it would solve the issue. The new one seems to still be leaking. Is there a seal or O-ring behind this switch that could be the issue? I thought...

I think it would work. I have been trying to research here and at explorer forum. "Had to register so I could inform any others out there. Just finished putting a 98 4.0 Cam Synchro into my 94/95 4.0 Block. Starts and runs as intended. It was a 3 wire to 3 wire swap so I had no wiring issues...

OK so I can use either but would need to change the whole assembly and swap the plug for the new style, correct? If so it may still be worth doing. My trucks style is $100 the new style complete assembly is $40 https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-FD37-Camshaft-Synchronizer/dp/B001FKQ4BS...

Can I swap out the plug and just change the sensor? If I have to replace the whole sychronizer can upgrade to the new one and swap the plug? Does it just plug in and I am totally missing something by not having the parts in front of me? Any help is appreciated I would like to get parts ordered...

I started getting a 214 CEL code so am looking into swaping my cam position sensor. It looks like I can buy just the sensor, but it seems to have a different plug for the wiring harness compared to mine. I found this tech article here which says you can just swap just the sensor, instead of...

Engine is in a 94 Mazda b4000. Engine is a rebuild from jasper not sure how many miles are on it. It uses the 8 bolt flywheel but the intake and everything matches an early ranger or explorer, I dont have an other b4000 to compare. Idle sits at around 900-1000 rpm. Unplugging the IAC does...

Trying to figure out what this switch or sensor is so I can get a replacement. Looks like it may have been previously damaged and I didn't help it any getting the transmission out of my truck. Truck is a 94 Mazda b4000 with a 5speed. A part number or link would be super helpful. I thought it...