Recent content by 1984rangerdanger

Leak down test on cylinder 2 at TDC for that cylinder there is air coming out the tail pipe; none out of the PCV valve or carburetor and no bubbles in the coolant. I guess I have my answer! Time to pull and rebuild the valves. Anyone ever done this job themselves (the rebuild)? Or would it be...

I just did a compression test. Bad news, all cylinders but #2 have around 125psi. #2 has less than 20. I pulled the valve covers off and can’t see any visible issues with that particular cylinder. Springs are intact and when I spin the motor things look to function as they should with the...

This is great advice. Thanks for writing it all out! Will do this ASAP

1984 2.8 3spd with the duraspark conversion. Engine sounds like it’s missing on a cylinder. Heavy vibration at idle in gear with the brake off. There is a puff of blue smoke on start up, and a small puff when I accelerate after idling. Definitely audible valve noise. I have checked the spark...

Just to update this thread, I finally found a 30-2671 distributor from rock auto and ordered it. Did the Duraspark conversion and the distributor was an exact fit. As others noted, I left the second vacuum port open to allow for advance.

I messaged Gary at second Gen Mustang, hopefully he’s able to locate one. In the mean time, I ordered a dizzy from Napa that supposedly fits a 1978 Pinto. Figured it couldn’t hurt. Part numbers are different, but the stock photos look similar…. Will report back if they’re a match!

That’s a good question. I never even really considered it, but going to research now.

As everyone trying to do the conversion has found, its impossible to find a 30-2691 or 30-2671 dizzy anymore. I have called all the parts stores in my area to no avail. Has anyone tried the 30-2490? It appears the same with the exception that the shaft is shorter between the gears and cap...

Thanks for the heads up. I clamped off the heater core hoses before I disconnected the top end housing. Then when I put everything back I poured the water down the upper radiator hose through the engine block until it came out of the radiator. Then put the hose back on the radiator and topped it...

Holy crap y’all, that was it! The dash temp gauge pegged all the way to the top and the hottest my IR gauge read was 183°. Looks like the previous owner put a new water pump and radiator in, while I put on a new fan clutch, all because a faulty gauge. Can’t believe I missed that. The temp...

OK, haven’t had a chance to work on the truck until today. New thermostat installed, refilled coolant from the top hose to eliminate any bubbles. Started it up and let it run for about 10 minutes, at which point it started to overheat again just idling. The radiator is warm, but not so hot that...

I got the new thermostat in, and yeah it’s a pita to seal. Finally had to put a thin layer of form a gasket on both sides. Waiting for it to dry before I pressurize the system. While I was down there I took a look around at the water pump and it looks fairly new. As is the radiator. Looks like...

Thank you!

Just did the glove HG test, no movement at all so that’s a relief! Now on to test the new fan clutch and replace the thermostat. I’ve read a couple different opinions, but the thermostat is supposed to go on the water pump itself, not under the housing on top, correct?

No I haven’t. Going to do the glove test for bad head gaskets, if they’re good I just bought a new water pump and thermostat to install tonight.