PlumCrazy's Build

[PlumCrazy]

Locker and 4.10s are finally going in the rear this weekend and the new cover will finally get bolted on (YAY I will have 4x4 again). I should be getting my new rubbers too. I ordered a set of 35" Mud Rovers a while back, but I have had nothing but trouble getting them. Plan on wheeling it Monday. I am 2 minutes from some nice trails at school, but 2wd isnt going to cut it.

It looks like I am finally going SAS with an EB Dana 44. I found one dirt cheap with 4.09's in it. Im getting the complete axle with steering linkage, track bar, RA's, and some pizza cutter mud terrains. I am going to have to convert it to disk and go through the ball joints, bearings, and seals, but I am already excited. I am going to run the stock EB RA's. I measured roughly and they appear to be about an inch shorter than my current arms. So I will make new mounts than move the mounting point about 1.5- 2" forward and an inch down. This will help with my caster and stretch my WB a squeak get the tires away from the fenders up front.

When I go through the D44 and clean it up it will almost bolt in with 4.5" EB lift coils and new RA mounts. I will figure out the steering situation and track bar mount after I have weight sitting on the axle.

I will be parting out my current D35 setup as soon as it is off. Unless somebody wants the whole setup for a good price.

-6" SJ coils $100
-6" SJ TTB brackets $80
-Extended RA's and Mounts $150
-D35 Skid Plate $100
-D35 pig with 4.10s $200
-D35 Beams/complete knuckles w/ newer Moog ball joints, Bearings, Wagner Pads and rotors $150
-WARN Lockouts $80
-Full set of shafts w/ newer U joints and c clip eliminator $80

Adds up to $940, but if you take it all I would go $700.

Ill also be parting with my five 15x10 soft 8's with the 5 on 4.5 lug pattern for $100

Nothing is for sale yet since the truck is my DD and I cant sell it until I get the D44 under my truck.

-PlumCrazy

 

[86 slo-vo]

wish you were closer id get the wheels from you

 

[Kyle M.]

Hey, need any help with the EB disk swap, I just did it and can help.

 

[PlumCrazy]

It will pretty straight forward, just like putting new ball joints and brakes on.

 

[Kyle M.]

If you are just getting new knuckles, yup. I know how you can save your EB knuckles if that is what you wanted. There are lots of different parts you can swap around to make it work for cheap.

 

[PlumCrazy]

If you are just getting new knuckles, yup. I know how you can save your EB knuckles if that is what you wanted. There are lots of different parts you can swap around to make it work for cheap.

What all would I need to save my EB knuckles? If I can find all the parts I need in th JY Im getting the axle from he will make it all a package deal.

I found a set of D44 disc brake knuckles, but he wants to keep them on the complete axle, and I cant find another two in the yard. There are lot 70s and 80s Ford trucks, but they all seem to 2wd. Lots of TTB D44's too, but Im pretty sure the ball joint spacing is different. I am going to go back again on Monday and look for some complete knuckles with disc. I am going to grab the stub shafts from the same truck I get knuckles from and there was a D44 under a Dodge that has the short side shaft I need to swap to larger joints.

 

[Kyle M.]

You can go get spindles off any chevy knuckles, 10 bolt or 44. They should have 6 bolts holding them on like the EB spindles. The only thing to look out for is the inner bearing diameter, there is a large and small, you want the small. But if you find the large ones, you can turn them down to fit the small bearings. Be sure to grab the backing plates and calipers to go with the spindles Then all you need is the hubs, you can buy new from Jeff bronco graveyard for $80 a side with rotors. You will need bearings too. The stub shafts are mostly all the same, just the area where the snap ring goes is moved in further on the chevy stubs, so depending on with locking hubs you run that may matter. Clear as mud?

I am running all chevy stuff on my EB with ford shafts, ford locking hubs. I just have 6 bolt lug pattern now, but I could change that too if I wanted to buy new hubs and rotors.

 

[PlumCrazy]

You can go get spindles off any chevy knuckles, 10 bolt or 44. They should have 6 bolts holding them on like the EB spindles. The only thing to look out for is the inner bearing diameter, there is a large and small, you want the small. But if you find the large ones, you can turn them down to fit the small bearings. Be sure to grab the backing plates and calipers to go with the spindles Then all you need is the hubs, you can buy new from Jeff bronco graveyard for $80 a side with rotors. You will need bearings too. The stub shafts are mostly all the same, just the area where the snap ring goes is moved in further on the chevy stubs, so depending on with locking hubs you run that may matter. Clear as mud?

I am running all chevy stuff on my EB with ford shafts, ford locking hubs. I just have 6 bolt lug pattern now, but I could change that too if I wanted to buy new hubs and rotors.

So the 6 bolt chevy spindle will bolt to EB drum knuckles, and I can run Ford 5 x 5.5 hubs and rotors? Are Chevy brakes the only ones that will work with the EB drum knuckles? If I remeber right the Chevy caliper mounts to a backing plate that is sandwiched between the spindle and the knuckle right?

 

[Kyle M.]

So the 6 bolt chevy spindle will bolt to EB drum knuckles, and I can run Ford 5 x 5.5 hubs and rotors? Are Chevy brakes the only ones that will work with the EB drum knuckles? If I remeber right the Chevy caliper mounts to a backing plate that is sandwiched between the spindle and the knuckle right?

Yes, chevy 6 bolt spindles will bolt on to EB knuckles and you can run the 5 x5.5 hubs and rotors, but you need to be sure to get the small inner bearing spindle for a direct swap. You can get the big one and machine them down and they will work too.

You can use either chevy or ford backing plates, they are both sandwiched. But just grab the ones from the donor and you should be all set.

The reason why all these parts work together is because this isn't a ford, or chevy, or dodge front end, it is a DANA that just got passed out, so for the most part, all things are interchangable

Let me know if you need to know anything else, I will help if I can!

 

[PlumCrazy]

Yes, chevy 6 bolt spindles will bolt on to EB knuckles and you can run the 5 x5.5 hubs and rotors, but you need to be sure to get the small inner bearing spindle for a direct swap. You can get the big one and machine them down and they will work too.

You can use either chevy or ford backing plates, they are both sandwiched. But just grab the ones from the donor and you should be all set.

The reason why all these parts work together is because this isn't a ford, or chevy, or dodge front end, it is a DANA that just got passed out, so for the most part, all things are interchangable

Let me know if you need to know anything else, I will help if I can!

I was thinking the Ford used knuckles like the TTB with the caliper mount built in for some reason. Is there any difference between the the drum and disc knuckles?

 

[playtimeover]

Hi PlumCrazy. Nice one. From old one it seems new now.

 

[Kyle M.]

I was thinking the Ford used knuckles like the TTB with the caliper mount built in for some reason. Is there any difference between the the drum and disc knuckles?

I think they might, later on,(maybe only with the TTB stuff???) but I am not sure to be honest. The difference between the drum and caliper knuckle is the bolt pattern. The only real reason to use the EB knuckles is to save some cash.

You can look here too for info about the axles
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

 

[White94Ranger]

nice plum on the SAS, to bad you didnt find a rubicon dana 44.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Well. I got the locker in, and the 4.10's. Im not so sure about the locker on the highway thing. It seems to disengage and engage very harsh and send a hell of a lot of shock through the driveline. At low speeds it seems to want to jump in and out if Im not coasting or heavy on the gas. Im second guessing the locker. Im going to try and drive it a little more, but IDK. I have heard that brand new lockers are a bit harsh at first, but it seems to be awful hard on my driveline. I have a 100 mile drive to school tomorrow, and I am not sure if I want to take it on a the highway or windy narrow back roads.

 

[disciplerocks]

May be interested in that D35 skid plate if you still have it down the road when I have money. That thing is awesome looking.