Sticky Calipers??

[twxsby]

I just put in new bearings, (packed the timkens with high temp grease) tightened inner nut to 30 ft lbs, spun them back and forth, then backed off 1/4 turn to where the tit locked into the holy washer (seemed a bit loose, but no play) (book says 16 in lbs, how does one measure 1/12 of a ft lb). Outer nut to 150 ft lbs. I put on new pads. I didn't spin the rotors, they looked fine, and I still had meat left on my old pads. Now when I drive, the wheels get hot, and when I brake, it pulls to the right. Is this caused by sticky calipers?

 

[metalmacguyver]

to get 16 inlbs, you use a smaller torque wrench. the pulling to the right is probably just the pads not being broken in with the old rotors yet. how hot to the wheels get? warm or actually hot?

 

[MAKG]

A rule of thumb is that 16 in lbs is pretty close to hand tight using the socket alone. It's not THAT precise, but you'll overtighten it if you use a ratchet, wrench, or punch. The bearings will tolerate being slightly loose better than being tight.

Another rule of thumb is to lubricate the slide rails whenever they are removed.

If the brakes have been dragging, you probably need new pads and rotors now, even if you didn't before. Look for surface cracking on the pads and a blue tinge just outside the friction area on the rotors.

 

[twxsby]

I changed the calipers, and that seemed to solve the problem.
Thanks for the input.
Before I changed the calipers, my wheels were too hot to touch after diving to work. I think that's too hot. Now, after the new calipers/new pads installed (old rotors, not turned), it was 130 degrees when I got to work (12 miles stop and go traffic). Grease used says 375 degrees. Any idea what the normal/max temp of the rotors should after driving?

 

[Robin Hood]

You should ALWAYS turn your rotors when putting on new discs. It prevents lots of future problems like: uneven wear, pulling, and dragging.

 

[MAKG]

You should ALWAYS turn your rotors when putting on new discs. It prevents lots of future problems like: uneven wear, pulling, and dragging.

I think you mean always turn rotors prior to new pads. It's hardly worth it to resurface a rotor you're going to throw away.

 

[Robin Hood]

I think you mean always turn rotors prior to new pads. It's hardly worth it to resurface a rotor you're going to throw away.

Well yeah, I just thought that was obvious...

 

[twxsby]

You should ALWAYS turn your rotors when putting on new discs. It prevents lots of future problems like: uneven wear, pulling, and dragging.

I use to think that way too, not anymore. I have had too many bad experiences with turning rotors, IMO buy new rotors, or do nothing. More often than not, the yo yo's spinning them might as well be working at 7-11. They get to thin to dissipate the heat, yada yada yada. After you take away all that material from spinning, everything gets hotter quicker, and they pulsate when braking. So called "warped" rotors. How do they get warped after turning them. That is suppose to be the Cure, right?
Just my Opinion.

 

[97ranger4x4]

yeh i know my rotors are warped a little. I have had them turned once or twice since I got the truck. I will replace them next time, they are almost cheeper to replace than to have turned!

 

[gnardoom]

I changed the calipers, and that seemed to solve the problem.
Thanks for the input.
Before I changed the calipers, my wheels were too hot to touch after diving to work. I think that's too hot. Now, after the new calipers/new pads installed (old rotors, not turned), it was 130 degrees when I got to work (12 miles stop and go traffic). Grease used says 375 degrees. Any idea what the normal/max temp of the rotors should after driving?

the rubber lines in the front collapse on the inside after 10 years or so. they act as a check valve and your calipers wont release for a while. you should change the lines no matter what if your ranger/explorer is more then 10 years old. your rim should be cold when your done driving unless you brake really hard before stop signs and lights or something, alot of people do, but it wrecks brakes

 

[MAKG]

I wouldn't replace rubber lines on a vehicle for which braking is working. However, I would consider it if a caliper were sticking. But 10 years is REALLY conservative. All of my vehicles -- including my 1972 -- have all original brake hydraulics (except for calipers on the Exploder), and they all work quite nicely.

 

[Joshs93four-oh]

Your Passenger Side Front Brake Hose Is Bad!!
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Nsr500V

 

[Joshs93four-oh]

Correction...If it pulls to the right under braking then the L/f brake hose is most likely bad. Any yes, this can also cause the brakes to drag even after letting off of the brake pedal. The old hose will chafe on the inside creating a "flap" of inner hose liner that allows the fluid in, but not out...the brakes heat up, causing the brake fluid to expand and press on the piston even harder, making the brakes drag even more...vicious cycle that ends up in a burn out system on the affected wheel. If you have a pull under braking but no other symptoms it is most likely a plugged brake hose. I have seen brake pulls caused by cheap brake pads too. Very rare, though. If you ever suspect calipers, insert a screwdriver in the caliper inspection hole in between the outboard pad and rotor and pry, attempting to move the caliper piston in. If its stuck, then do the same thing with the bleeder open and if the piston then returns, then it is not the caliper but the hose. If it does not move either way, then its the caliper at fault. Josh
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