How hard is it to install 8.8 gears?

[RBVinMI]

I just foud some lightly used 5.13s for my 28 spline 8.8 (I have a front set up with 5.13s already). I'm usure of the gears that are in it now (I do know they suck with 33"s). Is the best way just to get a install kit or can I skip this? Anyone know of a good web site detailing installing gears? This truck almost never sees the pavement & with less than $700 in this truck...I need to keep it CHEAP.
Also while I'm in the rear I was thinking of welding it. The only problem is I drive around the yard alot and dont want to give myself lawn jobs all the time. Any thoughts???
THANKS

 

[4x4junkie]

Installing gears isn't exceedingly hard IF you have all the proper tools, AND plenty of patience, and are willing to completely remove & replace the differential & pinion gear 5 or more times in the housing (typical for a beginner).

Most guys lack all the needed tools though, and if easily frustrated, won't do well with it (acquiring all the needed tools could end up costing as much (if not more) than having the gears done at a shop too).

If you think you want to try, these link can help get you started.

http://www.ringpinion.com/HowTo.aspx
http://www.gearinstalls.com/
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/


Good luck

 

[RBVinMI]

Great stuff...just what I was looking for!
Thanks again

 

[CheapThrillB2]

if you weld, you will tear the lawn up on every turn....

Trust me i know, mines welded and 2 of my buddies are welded. And they all store their trucks in my yard. So in the summer my lawn always looks like a$$. Good thing i live in the sticks and don't care lol

 

[Evan]

(acquiring all the needed tools could end up costing as much (if not more) than having the gears done at a shop too).

The only special tool I needed was a dial indicator with a magnetic base. Those are pretty cheap, and I was able to borrow one.

If you've set up a lot of bearings, the inch-lb wrench is optional.

The cost to get gears set up in an axle is around $300, $600 for both. I don't think there's any way you'd need that much in tools to set up gears, assuming you're starting with a set of "average" non-specialty tools.

 

[4x4junkie]

You forgot the press, case spreader, bearing splitter/separator, dial caliper/micrometer...

Sure, the case spreader you might be able to get away without, although how would you remove the pinion bearing to swap a shim without a press and a bearing splitter?

 

[Evan]

You forgot the press, case spreader, bearing splitter/separator, dial caliper/micrometer...

Sure, the case spreader you might be able to get away without, although how would you remove the pinion bearing to swap a shim without a press and a bearing splitter?

Press: Not needed. You make a setup bearing. Take an old bearing (or even buy a new one) and lightly grind out the inside, until it slips easily on and off. For the final bearing install, put the bearing in the oven for 15 mins at 450 and the pinion in the freezer. The bearing will slide on easily.

Case splitter: not needed, as you mentioned.

Bearing splitter: not needed if a setup bearing is used.

Dial caliper: I figured most people who would want to setup gears would already have this, or wouldn't mind buying one...a caliper is a pretty common and low cost tool....

 

[4x4junkie]

I don't really like the idea of using "setup" bearings (the one exception being where shims would have to go under the carrier bearings). I s'pose they'll probably get you close enough in any case though, although I've seen enough variation in different bearings that the pattern can still change some when you put the final bearings on.

 

[MAKG]

True enough, but you can very easily measure the thickness of the setup and "real" bearing with your dial caliper.

I don't use setup bearings only because I don't do this very often. When I do, however, I use the old bearing to set depth. It's just faster for me to press it off a few times than it is to grind out a setup bearing. I do have a shop press (cheap POS, but it works), which I picked up specifically to rebuild a 7.5. It cost less than half as much as shop labor to set up a rear. I also use a splitter and sometimes a modified two-jaw puller (more on transmissions than rear ends, though).

Even the dial indicator isn't rigorously necessary (you can do it by reading the contact pattern), but it's really worth the $15 -- it turns a very painful, time consuming operation into a quick and easy one.