Ideas on Removing Pulley from Lawn Mower Crankshaft

[Psychopete]

Hello,

I have a lawn boy that's had a slight knock, but always ran decent enough, but lacked power. It recently stopped starting, given what I knew, I decided to tear the engine down to see if it could be repaired cheap. It's a mower I got for free that leaked oil out of the oil fill spout, it's a 4 cycle tecumseh. I fixed the seal and did a tune up and used it for a several weeks.

I have everything apart, but I am stuck on removing the pulley for the self propulltion (sp) that's on the crank shaft. I have managed to loosen the set screw in the pulley. I have been trying to use a 3 jaw puller, but it is slipping off of the pulley (I am pulling from the edge closest to the crank case). I have cleaned the shaft well with fine emory sand paper and have been using PB Blaster, but I cannot seem to get this off. Any tips or pointers that might help me get this damn thing off?

 

[trail B2]

Some of the small engines i've worked on have a pulley system that consists of a screw in puller.Is there a recess with threads on it they make screw in pullers also.

 

[Psychopete]

Some of the small engines i've worked on have a pulley system that consists of a screw in puller.Is there a recess with threads on it they make screw in pullers also.

I wish, shaft is strait, tapers slightly, then it's just threaded for the blade nut. The end of the crankshaft is flat. I have a few extra pieces that set in the taper for the blade that I have been thinking about using to make some kind of half-ass puller to get me thru this. Lol.. Will post a pic when I get a chance, probably work on it again tomorrow since I have to go to a fish fry tonight.

Sucks because I just had to tear apart a couple 2-cycle lawn boys I got for free to make one good working one, but this is my spare for now. Crank shaft seal was bad on one, other had no spark and a mangled flywheel (previous owner trying to get spark I assume), so I pulled the crank seal and bearing from the one and installed it into the other.. LOL But I guess free is free..

 

[Psychopete]

Going to need pressed out. Guess I should start looking for a new mower, I think once said and done I would have exceeded the cost of a similar used one. Haven't been able to find a short block that would be ideal either.

 

[kemo]

Tecumseh parts are getting ridiculously hard to find. Luckily for us, we have a distributor right down the road that supposedly has the hookups... central power. We are in the process of getting our account opened. You CAN order from these guys, they might have a short block for you... I don't know because I can't log in yet to find out.

http://centralpower.com/index.aspx?pg=62

If you want to upgrade, go briggs! I have a cross-reference if you want info on it.

 

[dirttrackracer]

the puley on the shaft below the frame, if it is you might need a little heat i;ve done it because it would not come off just dont apply too mutch heat.

 

[Psychopete]

If you want to upgrade, go briggs! I have a cross-reference if you want info on it.

You think one would cross reference? I am a huge Briggs fan. I am not really worried about the controls, just the shaft length and the ability to keep the blade I have. But I'd still need to find a pulley that would fit and also be the correct diameter. But I do have 2 other decks I could use w/o self-pro. I don't need it, but if I am going to be dragging around that much more weight, it better work.

The one I am working on is model 10302 / serial 6908364.
I have a stripped deck that I can do something with model 10227 / serial 6908364 w/ no self-pro.
The 2 cycle I got going again is an older model, but I swapped a bunch of stuff over from the 10227 (like the carb, crank seal, handle, newer primer bulb, etc). Model 7268 serial 8546554, also not self-pro. Motor is definitely old and tired, just not too sure how much life it has left. Also seen a few cheap mowers that "didn't run" on craigslist that I thought about looking at.

dirttrackracer - I suppose I can get it another try. I actually applied a little heat the to blade nut and it came right off after fighting with it a little.

Thanks for the replies!

 

[Mac]

Kind of reminds me of trying to get the rear wheels off my old JD. We tryed everything, finially just torched them off they were so stuck to the axel. Learned to make 'never-seize' my friend.
Dave

 

[84stealthranger]

http://www.youtube.com/user/Davidsfarm#p/u/52/b3kDujyvfAE look thu his lawn mower videos it shows in one of them not sure what one tho

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It is really easy to throw more money at a small lawn and garden tool than they are worth.

Tecumpseh is no more, we found that out after a guy forgot to put oil in his nearly new Troy-Bilt tiller. We went with a comparable new Briggs, he approved everything before we did it but even though it was almost new he could have almost bought a new tiller by the time it was done.

If a parts diagram would help you any it is on the left side in the blue box...

http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/partsf2.asp

 

[kemo]

I'm in the process of hunting down a manual to find out the specs and mounting info. Plus, I just got off work, it's 3 am... I'll get back to ya after I hit the hay and catch some Zs. Figured I'd keep you posted. Tecumseh engines... yikes, i tell you what!

Update... since I can't find out what the shaft size is, you'll have to measure to find out for yourself. But, the 675 series briggs engine should do justice: http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engine_power/engine_details.aspx?pid=5 If that doesn't fancy you, the 700 should be suffice. There is also a "Direct Overhead Valve" 700 series engine, but it'll cost you a bit more.