Replace timing belt 1999 2.3-2wd

[The Toolman]

Whats different replacing the belt on the newer 99 engine with no distributor than the old ones I used to work on with a distributor?

I need to do mine an was wondering what all has to line up now to run again.


edit---I really have the 2.5 engine, I don't know why I put 2.3 in the title unless it was because I was just reading about one before I made this post.....


Thanx,
Ron

 

[modelageek]

Whats different replacing the belt on the newer 99 engine with no distributor than the old ones I used to work on with a distributor?

I need to do mine an was wondering what all has to line up now to run again.


Thanx,
Ron

I don't have the answer for you but this is one topic that needs a writeup about.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

its the exact same as with a distributor, you have to line up the 3 sprockets.

the camshaft lines up with the triangle. the oil pump shaft lines up with the diamond

 

[Fanucman]

I don't know if 99 is exactly same as 98 but here is how its done on my '98 2.5L. Look at inner timing cover for marks to align to. On mine there are 3 marks, one for crank gear, one for oil pump gear, and one for cam gear. I screwed this up the first time so make sure yours is same way. The cam and oil pump gears have 3 marks each on them. The marks are on the belt guides behind the gears and are very hard to see if there is any dirt build-up. Once I cleaned them off with scrub pad they were very easy to see. On each of these guids there is a line, a triangle, and a diamond. They MUST line up with the same type mark or your timing will be way off. The marks on the inner cover are different, the cam gear mark is a triangle and the oil pump gear mark is a diamond. Align what ever kind of mark on the gear matches the type mark on the inner cover. The crank gear only has a dot on the gear face and it aligns with a mark on the inner cover that is at about 2 o'clock to the gear. This one is easy because it only has one type of mark on it. Other than being aware of the different kind of marks it is very easy just like any other belt or timing chain.

 

[The Toolman]

I wonder why the oil pump needs figured in now with no dist. for it to drive?

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

I wonder why the oil pump needs figured in now with no dist. for it to drive?

because the cam position sensor reads off it.

 

[The Toolman]

Ahhhhh....you'd think the CPS would read off the cam, wouldn't ya?... That how the wifes miata is

 

[modelageek]

So basically is at follows. pull of the cover releade the tension, line up the marks. install the belt. Adjust the tension. Do you need to pull the crank pully off. how about the CPS. Do you need to worry about the crank being off 180?

 

[Fanucman]

So basically is at follows. pull of the cover releade the tension, line up the marks. install the belt. Adjust the tension. Do you need to pull the crank pully off. how about the CPS. Do you need to worry about the crank being off 180?

Crank can't be off 180, only the cam and oil pump can since they turn 1/2 the speed of the crank. As long as all marks are lined up properly when belt is put on everything will be correct. After the belt is installed and tensioner in place, rotate the crank 2 times CW and make sure all marks still line up. There is no need to remove the crank gear or CPS, only the balancer (pully is attched to it) , p/s bracket, and outer cover has to be removed to get the belt on and off.

 

[modelageek]

Crank can't be off 180, only the cam and oil pump can since they turn 1/2 the speed of the crank. As long as all marks are lined up properly when belt is put on everything will be correct. After the belt is installed and tensioner in place, rotate the crank 2 times CW and make sure all marks still line up. There is no need to remove the crank gear or CPS, only the balancer (pully is attched to it) , p/s bracket, and outer cover has to be removed to get the belt on and off.

OK I think i got it. how does the Balancer come off. a bolt, does that come off the regular way? is it a reverse thread or anything. One thing I have noticed on a few threads is if you don't prime the oil pump the engine will whine for a few minutes. how would you prime the oil pump to avoid this?

 

[Fanucman]

22mm bolt with regular right hand threads. You will need a balancer puller and thats about it. To prime the oil pump I used a impact gun to spin it CW before installing the belt. You can feel the resistance once it primes up.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I wouldn't bother priming unless you take the oil pump off, even then, there's no reason the oil would drain back further than just normally turning the engine off with just changing the timing belt.

mark the old timing belt and pulley's with white out, copy the marks onto the new belt then put it on, pretty much guaranteed to have it lined up right that way, Subaru belts come marked from the factory for that reason, don't know why more engines aren't set up that way.

 

[The Toolman]

Why do you prime the oil pump? Whats different with it? I guess I am missing something here.


Never mind, read above post.....

 

[red85]

The oil pump will not need to be primed if the engine has not been taken apart. When engines are rebuilt, all the oil galleries and the pump cavity are empty. Priming a rebuilt engine helps to save all the fresh bearing surfaces from premature wear from a "dry" startup.