98+ driveshaft for custom use...

[UrbanRedneckKid]

So I got to thinking...
My truck needs longer driveshafts, and there is a longer factory shaft, but will it work?
I looked up the wheelbases and there is practically a foot difference. Assuming there is another foot on the 98+ driveshaft, it would most likely have to be cut down to fit my truck, but that would cut cost of having a completely new shaft made.

I was also thinking, that aluminum wouldn't be such a good idea for my means of use. Is there a steel one available?

I don't need high angle joints or anything in the rear, but I am approximating that I'll need about another 5" of length. But, would there be enough travel in a OEM shaft's slip joint?

Good idea? Worth a try? Who knows, What do you think?

 

[Toreadorranger]

98-2000 should have steel shafts.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

There's quite a few places here in Denver that sell drive shaft tube by the foot. I'm sure you could find somethin in your neck of the woods.

I went the cheaper option and ground the welds and pulled the male side of the slip and the yoke (eventually went to a 1350 when a fubared the 1310 yoke's ears too much)

I then went to the junk yard and found a shaft with the same circumfrence. Mine came from a 47 International 1/2 ton. Got lucky and it had a use-able I.D. Cut the tube down to length, heated the tube ends, and pressed the yokes in. Squared them up, welded them, and then had it balenced.

After shortening my WB and cutting the DS down, I get little to no vibrations from it and it hasn't been balenced yet.

This would also be the time for you to run a bigger yoke too. Do you have the 8.8" rear or did you go 9"? The 8.8" flange uses a 1310 joint, IIRC while the 9" runs a 1330. I'm runnin a 1350-1330 conversion joint in the rear.

 

[TireIron]

There are some 1330 flanges for the 8.8. I have one on my truck, it looks the same as the 1310 flange but has a 1330 in it. There were some mid 90s explorers that got a rear shaft with 1330s. Let me tell you, that confused me when I went to replace my u-joints big time. It was an odd package like some specific 4-door manual transmission versions got the 1330 shaft. So it has 1330s front and rear and the correct flanges front and rear to bolt up to the 1350/1354 and the 8.8/7.5.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

This would also be the time for you to run a bigger yoke too. Do you have the 8.8" rear or did you go 9"? The 8.8" flange uses a 1310 joint, IIRC while the 9" runs a 1330. I'm runnin a 1350-1330 conversion joint in the rear.

I have a narrowed 78 Bronco 9", big bearings and 31spl.

Sounds like I'll be better off getting a shaft made...