put your Explorer knowledge to the test!

[jaymegriffiths]

i need help installing a camshaft syncronizer in my 1994 explorer. we bought another 1994 donor and didn't realize it never had EGR, or the cam sensor, sycronizer whatever its called... pics:
havin trouble with photobucket but comin soon!

 

[Taragon]

They make a special tool for this.

Buy it, and installation is fool proof

 

[jaymegriffiths]

tool is for 1996+ trust me we bought it it doesn't even fit the sycronizer.
i have instructions from ford but other tools are needed. including a test harness and ohm-meter

 

[jaymegriffiths]

ok got pics but tool was returned so no pic, if you google it theres many. the black round tool thinger.

new engine

some part of the egr

different manifold

Side by side comparison

 

[Mosinman76254]

I just went thru this crap when I rebuilt my 4.0 in my 95 Xploder. And no, that tool doen't work. You do need a test harness and an ohm meter. You need to set it up on TDC, then turn the crank clockwise 28 degrees. Being there's no 28 degree mark you just simply cut a piece of paper EXACTLY 34 mm. long and that will give you the specified 28 degrees. You have to rotate the cam sensor untill you find that the ohms drop to zero at the 28 degree mark, then lock it in. Make damn sure you're right on that 28 degree mark when it drops. It's a pain in the ass to do with the intake on for sure!
Oh and of course make sure your crank sensor in on cuz if not you don't have your pointer to show your timing mark.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

I just went thru this crap when I rebuilt my 4.0 in my 95 Xploder. And no, that tool doen't work. You do need a test harness and an ohm meter. You need to set it up on TDC, then turn the crank clockwise 28 degrees. Being there's no 28 degree mark you just simply cut a piece of paper EXACTLY 34 mm. long and that will give you the specified 28 degrees. You have to rotate the cam sensor untill you find that the ohms drop to zero at the 28 degree mark, then lock it in. Make damn sure you're right on that 28 degree mark when it drops. It's a pain in the ass to do with the intake on for sure!
Oh and of course make sure your crank sensor in on cuz if not you don't have your pointer to show your timing mark.

ok heres the last problem. what do we do with the piece of paper? cut a random width piece @34mm, then do what? tape it somewheres? the rest i can figure out...
edit: should i put the plug that was originally in the new motor(the one we're installing the cam sychro thinger in) into its spot before turning the engine over to get it to tdc and 28*?

 

[Mosinman76254]

First put the engine up on TDC. Then install the cam synchro.

Sorry... I should've said where to put the piece of paper. I used a 3X3 sticky using only the piece with the glue on it. Take the right end of the paper and place it on the left side of the zero mark on the balancer. Therefore rotating the crank clockwise will put you at the 28 degree mark. Hope that clears that up.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

First put the engine up on TDC. Then install the cam synchro.

Sorry... I should've said where to put the piece of paper. I used a 3X3 sticky using only the piece with the glue on it. Take the right end of the paper and place it on the left side of the zero mark on the balancer. Therefore rotating the crank clockwise will put you at the 28 degree mark. Hope that clears that up.

ok i think i understand... i still need a test harness... couln'd i just use a plug from another 4.0 just cut the wires and use that as a test harness instead of buying a harness?

 

[Mosinman76254]

I don't think that you can do that. I had borrowed the tester from my local service station.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

I don't think that you can do that. I had borrowed the tester from my local service station.

according to the service manager at ford, you only need the harness if testing the device. as for install, just get engine to 26 degree's after tdc compression stroke cylinder #1, then plunk. synchronizer should line up to the lines on the site glass, since it is helix geared you set it on the advanced line then when you slide it down the little c-shaped thing settles on the correct line. then you turn the engine over twice and see if the line and sunchro still line up. then your good to go...

 

[dangerranger83]

What kind of engine is that??? Is that a 4.0? Does it have a spot for a distributor?

 

[jaymegriffiths]

What kind of engine is that??? Is that a 4.0? Does it have a spot for a distributor?

nope. its distributerless. just one had a cam synchro, one didn't the one thats blown had a cam synchro and all the egr stuff, but our donor didn't. so we're just tryin to figure this all out before we plunk it in and find out it dont work.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

i was also worried that if we turn the engine over with nothin in the hole something would go outta wack but its just the oil pump thats driven off the cam, and since i checked theres no oil pump timing. sooo. im still really confused about this 34 mm piece of paper. perhaps we'll just put an angle finder or something on it...

 

[dangerranger83]

Ya the oil pump is driven by the distrbutor or cam. But ya theres no timing for it, it just sits and has a shaft that turns it. I'd swear you could put a disributor in it some how, from the looks of it a 2.8 distributor, I'm going to have to look into that.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Ya the oil pump is driven by the distrbutor or cam. But ya theres no timing for it, it just sits and has a shaft that turns it. I'd swear you could put a disributor in it some how, from the looks of it a 2.8 distributor, I'm going to have to look into that.

i dont wanna put a distributer. its just a matter of figuring out how to fix it and doing it. time is the real issue here, and not wanting to put it together wrong