Best year, model for hardcore wheeler build?

[Jay FX4]

Would I be unpopular if I recommended a late 70's cj7?

Yes. This is not "The CJ7 Station".

 

[Jason]

Yes. This is not "The CJ7 Station".

Really? Problem is, he said "hardcore" and didn't specify Ranger.

 

[c_note]

Really? Problem is, he said "hardcore" and didn't specify Ranger.

i would much rather have a TJ than a CJ.

 

[99RangerKrazy]

Would I be unpopular if I recommended a late 70's cj7?

Absolutely not...as I'm looking for one myself. They're sweet rigs.

 

[Frank The Tank]

I meant hardcore....... budgets don't go well with hardcore rigs generally. lol, but I don't want to pi$$ money away either.

I planned to hack the body in any way shape and form to make it more functional.
But i figured a 95 Ranger or so would be the way to go. Ive heard a 94 and up 4.0 has the 8.8 and the stouter front axle though I don't know why.

Rangers are cheap to buy and mod up way....... cheaper than a jeep, and especially a YOTA.

how deep can you go on gears with stock axles...... ?
i will be breaking these before a heavier swap.

And an auto is a must, I love driving manuals........ I'm into mudding a manual, but when it comes down to it, rock and hill climbing a 5spd is suicidal. I believe the explorers auto bolts right up and is the heavy duty one.

Thats a pretty good idea on the long bed........ it will probably end up with a toolbox bolted to the frame (that's how my D-50 Mud/POS was)

Frank

 

[DRanger024]

Frank, 3.08 to 5.13 are available. I'm sure you can get lockers that low too.

 

[Jason]

Frank, don't believe everything you are told. Nothing is cheaper to build and mod than an old Jeep.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Frank, don't believe everything you are told. Nothing is cheaper to build and mod than an old Jeep.

I looked at one for a DD, the darn things are either worth a fortune or about ready to implode from rust. Parts don't really seem all that cheap for them either, it seems like they are almost marked up to take advantage of the hype.

I want one, but that is how things looked a couple years ago when I ruled it out.

There was a CJ5 farm jeep with a PTO that was painted up like a John Deere (green with yellow wheels, JD decals) at a sale. The exterior was ok looking, the floors were shot... it needed a tub, ran good but smoked. He still got $2k for it.

 

[Beanmachine7000]

I looked at one for a DD, the darn things are either worth a fortune or about ready to implode from rust. Parts don't really seem all that cheap for them either, it seems like they are almost marked up to take advantage of the hype.

I want one, but that is how things looked a couple years ago when I ruled it out.

There was a CJ5 farm jeep with a PTO that was painted up like a John Deere (green with yellow wheels, JD decals) at a sale. The exterior was ok looking, the floors were shot... it needed a tub, ran good but smoked. He still got $2k for it.

I've found this also, I looked at buying a newer Wrangler and they are all way overpriced...

 

[Jason]

Wranglers are expensive. Old CJ's, not around here. I could get a fully restored one for 4k.

 

[c_note]

Wranglers are expensive. Old CJ's, not around here. I could get a fully restored one for 4k.

ya, with the scrawny ass frame rails that flex more than the junk leaf springs. the tj has a better frame and is linked. and he also mentioned, "budgets dont go well with hardcore", so hes talking about spending a few Gs.

 

[Jason]

ya, with the scrawny ass frame rails that flex more than the junk leaf springs. the tj has a better frame and is linked. and he also mentioned, "budgets dont go well with hardcore", so hes talking about spending a few Gs.

The TJ axles are lesser quality too. Jeeps are something I have owned many many of.

All trucks that you guys would call affordable are a compromise.

 

[c_note]

The TJ axles are lesser quality too. Jeeps are something I have owned many many of.

All trucks that you guys would call affordable are a compromise.

the tj has a better to build off of. like i said, the cj frame is crap. either way, the axles would be replaced on both models and a linked suspension is way better. the only thing i like about a CJ over a TJ is that the CJ has an actual tail gate. thats it!

axle swaps are easy.

 

[mhughes165]

mid 90's ranger, 4.0, m50d, heavy duty clutch, 77 bronco axle, 9" upgraded to 35 spline geared to 4.88 and a detroit, 44 with moly axles, 4.88's detroit, 35" tsl sx's, 8" eb lift, dropped coil buckets, longer resoivoir shock. 1 ton yokes and driveshafts

overall u can usually get the 4.0 rangers pretty cheap, with everythign ive stated ui could prolly put it all together if u know what ur doin for under 5k and be able to wheel further then most guys on much larger tires

 

[4x4junkie]

I see pretty much anything with the "Jeep" name on it going for way more than it should around here (although not quite as much as those old 1st-gen Broncos however).

A Bronco II on the other hand (or a Ranger)... I think I got maybe a grand total of $7000 into mine, including the truck itself. No "compromises"... This includes ARB lockers, 5.13 gears, dual t-case, OBA, Warn winch, rollcage, 35" BFGs, disc brakes all around, Bilstein shocks, A/C works f'in' killer, over 3 feet of total suspension flex, and on and on... it's got plenty of good stuff. You'll easily pay more than that just for a Jeep Wrangler by itself in decent condition, then you still got to pay for all the stuff to make it worthy of a decent trail. Then there's the fact it's a jeep. You'll pretty much disappear unnoticed into the sea of jeeps that already exists on just about any trail.

'95-'97 is probably the best year range for RBVs if you absolutely must have an auto trans, but geared deep enough, a manual is actually very pleasant to drive on rocks (more so when you're on the downside of the rock).
My BII is geared 117:1 and just by working the clutch with one foot, and brake with the other, it'll crawl up & over pretty much anything right at an idle (no need to touch the throttle). And that's with the 2.9L. The 4.0L will of course have even more ability to do this.
Mudding is actually where an auto would do better, as you don't lose all your momentum when it shifts gears like you do when shifting a manual.