building sliders

[larsen101]

i want to build some rock sliders but need some help/ideas. not to sure what size tube i should use and anyone have some pic's of some sliders on a gen 1 ranger? also how much would the tube cost for like a 20ft section? best i have found was like 66 and not to sure if thats to much of not

 

[4x4junkie]

A 20' piece of 2x3x.120" tube will probably be around $60-80 or so. The same thing in .180 wall would likely run another $20-30 I'm guessing.

The .120 should be sufficient if you also weld a piece of 1/8" strip on the bottom edge of the slider to reinforce it from denting.

There should be some past threads in here with slider pics.

Edit:
Here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33647&highlight=sliders+pics

 

[larsen101]

ok thanks for the help on the pricing

 

[Toreadorranger]

I would go thicker then .120 wall. I went with .1875 2x4 box. no need to weld a strip on the bottom.

 

[4x4junkie]

The thicker stuff adds a little more weight though (every little bit here & there can add up). How important that is I guess would depend on what you have in mind for your truck's build.

 

[Toreadorranger]

The thicker stuff adds a little more weight though (every little bit here & there can add up). How important that is I guess would depend on what you have in mind for your truck's build.

If your that worried about weight your in the wrong hobby.

 

[4x4junkie]

Ummm... Why have a big fat pig that ends up weighing well over 5000lbs when you could easily have it weigh something like 4200lbs instead??? That lesser weight can go a long way just about any way you look at it (better perceived power from your engine, less likely to bend or break stuff, less stress on the frame while flexing, easier to extricate if you get stuck, and on and on and on).

If someone NEEDS that extra beef because they're going to run the harder "Hammer" trails out in Johnson Valley, then that's one thing, but I tend to think the OP here simply wants some extra protection against the occasional rock trying to take out the rocker panels on his "Daily Driver weekend warrior".

 

[c_note]

Ummm... Why have a big fat pig that ends up weighing well over 5000lbs when you could easily have it weigh something like 4200lbs instead??? That lesser weight can go a long way just about any way you look at it (better perceived power from your engine, less likely to bend or break stuff, less stress on the frame while flexing, easier to extricate if you get stuck, and on and on and on).

If someone NEEDS that extra beef because they're going to run the harder "Hammer" trails out in Johnson Valley, then that's one thing, but I tend to think the OP here simply wants some extra protection against the occasional rock trying to take out the rocker panels on his "Daily Driver weekend warrior".

i agree

we all know DOM is stronger anyway.

larsen101:
use 1.5" .120 wall DOM tube. you cant go wrong with that.

 

[JohnnyU]

I wouldn't waste the money on buying DOM tubing just for rock sliders, you will be more than fine using HREW and at less than half the cost of DOM.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Even using schedule 40 pipe for sliders is more than enough.

 

[Ranger#1]

yea go 1 3/4 .120 wall TUBE not PIPE non dom or cro mo just slide on them dont land on em lol

 

[JohnnyU]

yea go 1 3/4 .120 wall TUBE not PIPE non dom or cro mo just slide on them dont land on em lol

For non-critical members such as sliders and/or bumpers, I fail to see the importance for the designation between tube/pipe. It sounds to me like there are many people just repeating what they've read or been told on other forums....

 

[c_note]

well ok, im just gonna put this out here.

for me, im going to use DOM tubing for sliders. im not afraid to spend money and if i dont have the money, i wont spend it. having DOM tubing will put me at ease knowing i have a good quality set of sliders. my truck is about looks but also very capable. i dont put crap on my truck.

thats just me!

 

[JohnnyU]

Nor do I, however DOM tubing is not the end-all best tubing to use for every application. This is the point that I am trying to make here. In fact, it's not really a very specific term. There are almost as many different types of "DOM tube" as there are steel alloys. For a set of sliders, the raised weld-seam is not as much a concern as it would be for a roll cage or other protective structure.

Properly designing and building a truck does not mean using DOM tubing for everything you've decided to make. What it really means is being able to identify which materials have what properties, and also be able to distinguish between what material meets the needs based on the application, design, and fabrication method.

Also, I will add that DOM typically dents (flattens) easier than HREW (or box tube, as mentioned previously). I have seen it several times, both in person and documented in fairly 'prestigious' builds and websites. DOM is not the same thing as "Seamless" tubing, this is also a common mistake. DOM is actually just HREW (that's Hot Rolled Electric Welded) that is run through a mandrel. This cold-working process increases the material's tensile strength, but will also reduce the materials ductility. There is a trade-off between the two, and different applications will require different material properties.

 

[Roger]

There is a trade-off between the two, and different applications will require different material properties.

Truer words...

After watching what friends have built and what holds up to abuse, I've come to a realization. If it won't affect your life, sched 40 is just fine. If your life is on the line, HREW as a minimum with DOM being a better choice, but chromoly is better still (and called for by most sactioning bodies).

So for sliders, square or rectanular section tube is good and I've seen some really nice work done with both. I'll use rectangular tube for mine on my Ranger and my ZJ...