4.0 Performance

[marcehboy]

In this case id HAVE to agree with you 100% Better air flow/exhaust flow = better MPGs, performance

NO DOUBT ABOUT IT
just common sense
IT will not hurt you reliability
a Blower, maybe but not exhaust and a knn cai

 

[Gotta_gofast]

I've noticed a LOT of theories around here but only few who've tried things...

 

[Bob Ayers]

HI!... Actually it's more reliable than stock. Electric fan = more H.P/TQ, better fuel economy. Plus I can run the fan to cool down the truck when the engine is not running. Can't do that with the JUNK clutch fan.

Underdriven crank pulley = Slows down the accessories, hense not wearing them out as quickly, frees up H.P/TQ, gets better fuel economy.

CAI (custom fabricated) = true cold air set-up, less restrictive than stock paper filter, frees up H.P/TQ, better fuel economy.

15.8E.T to 14.6E.T. I've got a best of 28MPG on the highway. Yup your right, showed no gains at all.......


HMMMM ya........

I hate to tell you this, but your a LIAR!!!!

Chicken wire will flow more air than the OEM paper filter, but since the OEM paper filter flows way more air than the engine can pull,
you won't get any more air with chicken wire!!!

As previously posted, the OEM setup is CAI


Very WRONG!!

With all the parts needed for an e-fan, the probability of failure is MUCH higher:

1) electric motor
2) wiring and connectors
3) relays
4) controller, and temp sensor

E-fan has much less cooling capacity than mechanical fan/clutch

UDPs put much more strain on electrical system due to alternator field current increasing to try and maintain proper voltage. Engine runs hotter (and tranny) due to water pump turning slower.


For proof, check out this e-fan pole from R-F:

http://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/showthread.php?t=69440&highlight=e-fan+poll

 

[marcehboy]

My point is do what you wanna do man look around the forums and check things out, In the end it your money and don't let other people spend it for you.

-Marc

 

[Bob Ayers]

And read this and it will give you details on what can happen with UDPs, the
reason it can void your new vehicle warranty:

By Joe Bradley, Manager of Ford's Warranty Analysis department

"As you might expect from the company that formed SVT, the Ford Motor Company has many employees who are true performance enthusiasts -- folks who love and care for their personal high-performance vehicles as much as or more than the next guy or gal. Many of us, in fact, are true "weekend warriors" who can be found at the local drag strip or road course on Saturdays and Sundays, and tinkering under the hood during weekday evenings getting ready for the next event. As automotive enthusiasts, we certainly can appreciate performance machinery.

That said, as Ford employees we all want to do the right thing for our customers as well as for the Ford Motor Company. That is precisely why it is important to have a concise, easy-to-understand policy with regard to Ford warranty administration. For vehicles that are not modified, the Ford warranty policy is clear – the company backs its products within the guidelines of the new vehicle limited warranty, which is designed to protect the customer from defects in factory workmanship and/or material.

However, in the case of vehicles that have been modified, one needs to understand that the modifications may affect warranty coverage. This is simply because any damage or failure of new vehicle components or systems that was caused by modifications to the vehicle are not defects in "factory supplied" workmanship or material.

To illustrate this point, let's consider a small sample of vehicle modifications and see how they might affect factory components or systems: When it comes to changing the factory engine drive pulleys, there are some powertrain system and component concerns that deserve consideration. One would be any electrical and/or charging system problems that arise because of reduced alternator operating speed caused by the installation of underdrive pulleys. After all, the performance and serviceability of many system components are based on certain design parameters that include operating speed. The same goes for problems stemming from higher cooling system temperatures because of reduced water pump flow caused by the installation of underdrive pulleys. Increased underhood temperatures caused by owner-induced changes to a factory design-specification part can have a detrimental effect on any number of powertrain components or systems – some that may have long-range implications. And things can get even more serious when supercharger pulley changes are made, including head gasket leaks and piston and connecting rod failures. Also possible is piston damage due to detonation from improper air/fuel and timing modifications.

The installation of any non-factory forced induction system can also cause problems. Base engines modified with aftermarket superchargers, turbochargers or nitrous oxide injection systems may indeed bring about some power gains, but they can cause piston, connecting rod and/or crankshaft failures as well.

Other parts of a vehicle's factory-spec drivetrain are also susceptible to damage when engine torque and horsepower is increased. Performance chips or other power-enhancing devices increase torque loads on the driveline and can force failure of the transmission and/or rear axle. The latter problem can be especially true when owners switch to wider tires or racing slicks in an effort to increase traction. Even non "go-fast" aftermarket accessories such as remote starters, alarms, supplementary gauges and audio equipment can cause electrical system service problems if they are installed incorrectly or have improper connections.

When it comes to fairly evaluating the possibility of a warranty denial, there's one simple rule of thumb to follow: Although the installation of non-Ford parts and aftermarket modifications, by themselves, will not void the Ford New Vehicle Limited Warranty, failures that result from these parts and/or modifications may result in a denial of warranty coverage for such failures or damage.

The bottom line is, Ford Motor Company wants each of its owners to enjoy their product to the fullest extent – and that includes performance vehicles. But dealer service technicians have seen, and continue to see, that modifications may cause the original design to fail. The addition of aftermarket parts is a risk that each and every vehicle owner must evaluate for themselves. All that's needed is a reasonable dose of common sense. When and if you modify your vehicle, please consider whether the modification may cause another component to fail – and if it does, recognize that warranty coverage for that failure or damage will likely be denied. "


And, read the vehicle manufacturer warranty section in this article, which is almost 4 years old:


http://www.usatoday.com/tech/news/internetprivacy/2004-12-27-auto-blackbox_x.htm

...and one more:

http://www.edn.com/index.asp?layout=article&articleid=CA529380


This law was written to protect the public against vehicle manufactures demanding that only their consumable parts (oil filters, oil, etc.) could be
used, or the warranty was void. Bottom line, you can use a Purolator oil
filter, instead of a Motorcraft oil filter and your warranty will not be void!
"Performance" mods are a different story, period, as stated by Joe Bradley!

 

[Gotta_gofast]

You heard it, nothing you do to your truck will make it better!

 

[THE H.P FREAK]

I hate to tell you this, but your a LIAR!!!!

Chicken wire will flow more air than the OEM paper filter, but since the OEM paper filter flows way more air than the engine can pull,
you won't get any more air with chicken wire!!!

As previously posted, the OEM setup is CAI


Very WRONG!!

With all the parts needed for an e-fan, the probability of failure is MUCH higher:

1) electric motor
2) wiring and connectors
3) relays
4) controller, and temp sensor

E-fan has much less cooling capacity than mechanical fan/clutch

UDPs put much more strain on electrical system due to alternator field current increasing to try and maintain proper voltage. Engine runs hotter (and tranny) due to water pump turning slower.


For proof, check out this e-fan pole from R-F:

http://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/showthread.php?t=69440&highlight=e-fan+poll

HI!... 1st off if you want to start name calling then name call me to my face. It will end there trust me.

2nd you obviously don't have the faintest idea what your talking about. I've done extensive testing on this subject on a dyno and at the track over the past 20 years.

Have you actually looked at your stock so-called CAI? It's VERY restrictive. The entrance behind the head light assembly is really small. Like 50% of the actual MAF diameter. Plus the air flow has to snake it's way around to get to the actual filter. And then there's the restrictive factory PAPER filter. Replaced mine, about 45% dirty, and had dirt in my TB and air intake trac.

Sorry no chicken wire here whatever that's supposed to mean. I run a S&B filter. Cotton gauze with the oil. I clean it regularly and don't over oil it like 90% of people do causing MAF issues. Since then, no dirt in my TB or intake track and no wasting money on paper filters several times a year.

Well you better inform the big 3 auto makers and their engineers that your smarter than they are! LOL! They have some of the most reliable electric fan set-ups out there than easily last 10-15 years with no problems. I run DERALE electric fans which are also run my the military for some of their equipment. So I guess there not reliable either. I've run two DERALE electric fans on my F-150 for over ten years. Not one single problem. People who have problems with after market electric fans usually don't wire them correctly or use cheap low grade parts.

Most electric fans out flow the stock mechanical/clutch fans. Remember most mechanical/clutch fans only get their MAX cfm rating when your high up in the engines RPM range. A electric fan puts out it's max cfm all the time no matter what the engine rpm's are or for that matter if the engine is even running!

As for UDP that's why most kits come with a alternator pulley. The crank pulley will slow the accessories down, called parasitic loss. The smaller alternator pulley speeds the alternator back up to stock speed. I'm running just the under driven crank pulley, plus I have a electric fan on the ran and a 10" electric fan on the trans cooler, and I have a stereo system. I have no charging issues at all, no lights dim at idle.

Been running that set-up on my Ranger now for 2 years and 30,000. Not a problem with the truck and it's got like 60 runs down the 1/4 mile. It's plenty reliable. BUILT FORD TOUGH!

 

[Tee Rev]

With all the parts needed for an e-fan, the probability of failure is MUCH higher:

1) electric motor
2) wiring and connectors
3) relays
4) controller, and temp sensor

E-fan has much less cooling capacity than mechanical fan/clutch

Two questions!

Why do Mustangs have electric fans from the factory?

Why do you give such a crap about what others do to their own vehicle?

 

[Bob Ayers]

Two questions!

Why do Mustangs have electric fans from the factory?

Why do you give such a crap about what others do to their own vehicle?

As previously posted, I hate to see youngsters throwing their money away on
useless performance mods! But, I present the technical facts, but I have never told somebody they can't buy something, this is a free country!!

Read my other post. If a vehicle is designed for an e-fan, it will have a larger
capacity radiator to compensate for the reduced capacity of the e-fan!
This will not be the case if you put an e-fan on a vehicle that was designed with a mechanical fan/clutch

 

[Bob Ayers]

Have you actually looked at your stock so-called CAI? It's VERY restrictive. The entrance behind the head light assembly is really small. Like 50% of the actual MAF diameter. Plus the air flow has to snake it's way around to get to the actual filter. And then there's the restrictive factory PAPER filter. !

Try this test.....block off half the OEM paper filter, put a vacuum gauge where the IAT sensor is in the intake tube, then run at WOT, and high RPM
to see if you measure any vacuum!!!!

With CAFE standards, vehicle manufacturers DON'T BUILD RESTRICTIVE intake systems!!!

 

[THE H.P FREAK]

Two questions!

Why do Mustangs have electric fans from the factory?

Why do you give such a crap about what others do to their own vehicle?

HI!... lol! EXACTLY!!!!!!

 

[THE H.P FREAK]

As previously posted, I hate to see youngsters throwing their money away on
useless performance mods! But, I present the technical facts, but I have never told somebody they can't buy something, this is a free country!!

Read my other post. If a vehicle is designed for an e-fan, it will have a larger
capacity radiator to compensate for the reduced capacity of the e-fan!
This will not be the case if you put an e-fan on a vehicle that was designed with a mechanical fan/clutch

HI!... That's funny. My F-150 and RANGER were both set-up to have mechanical fans. Both have HUGE radiators in them... hmmmm. Both vehicles were converted to electric fan set-ups. Both vehicles run and stay cooler than stock. Both still have reliability. F-150's been running twin 16" electric fans, two 10" electric rans coolers and a MEZIERE electric water pump for ten years. Made over 500 passes down the dragstrip, and have towed our skidsteer (8500LBS) at work on several occasions and never overheated. Well these mods have worked for me and a ton of other people. I'm sorry to hear that they may have not work for you.

 

[Tee Rev]

As previously posted, I hate to see youngsters throwing their money away on
useless performance mods! But, I present the technical facts, but I have never told somebody they can't buy something, this is a free country!!

Read my other post. If a vehicle is designed for an e-fan, it will have a larger
capacity radiator to compensate for the reduced capacity of the e-fan!
This will not be the case if you put an e-fan on a vehicle that was designed with a mechanical fan/clutch

Well I'm almost 42 & have been modding cars since my early teens. I've pretty much seen everything that works & doesn't work. My knowledge is based on experience.

I'll have to disagree with your view on electric fans based on my personal experience. For example, I own a 91 Ranger that I've had since new, with a built 4.0l. It's had an electric fan for over 15 years without any issue. For the most part the fan doesn't even come on while driving. In +30*C while idling it will, but even with the stock "skinny" radiator, it has no problem bringing the temperatures down.

 

[THE H.P FREAK]

Try this test.....block off half the OEM paper filter, put a vacuum gauge where the IAT sensor is in the intake tube, then run at WOT, and high RPM
to see if you measure any vacuum!!!!

With CAFE standards, vehicle manufacturers DON'T BUILD RESTRICTIVE intake systems!!!

HI!... Well I know on my truck if you let the engine idle and I place both my hands on the paper filter the engine stalls. I do the same thing on my S&B filter and it stays running. Not very scientific, but hmmmmmm.

BOB, just so you know I'm not some young pup. I've been building race engines for about 25 years, drag, snowmobile, motorcylce, etc. I also used to be a auto mechanic before changing careers.

 

[Casto0208]

ehh i think ill stay away from the e-fans. i heard good and negative things about them. i was just looking for bolt-ons to help. not so far into a supercharger or turbo but something alittle more affordable and to help give the engine alittle more sound, help open it up alittle. but thanks for the input guys, its really appreciated.