Best lift for the $$

[klogtruck]

ouch

 

[ZMan]

How does the drop bracket put a hole in the dif???

you can see in that picture that the cheaper lifts just use a drop plate, and re-use the stock bracket. A lift like Skyjacker completely replaces that bracket all together, thus eliminating the possibility of punching a hole in the diff.

 

[KENWIL138]

Same thing happened to me with the diff. I just had a buddy cut that piece out of the bracket and then weld it together. Took about 15 min and have never had a problem since. I have wheeled it pretty damn hard too.

 

[Blackdog455]

this question is sort of out of nowhere but a 3" body lift with 33" tires, is their any rubbing of the tires? If not then im going to do that but if their is then its 32's i guess.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

this question is sort of out of nowhere but a 3" body lift with 33" tires, is their any rubbing of the tires? If not then im going to do that but if their is then its 32's i guess.

Not if you trim the fenders....

It probably wouldn't rub on an 89 or newer as long as you didn't flex the suspension much. IMHO, you need about a 4" lift to clear 33's without much of an issue. (you could do a 2-3" body lift and a cheap 2" suspension lift and clear 33's fine)

 

[Evan]

You get what you pay for with a lift. If you go with a cheap lift on Ebay like a Tuff Country, Rough Country, etc. you WILL bend brackets, punch holes in the diff, etc if you wheel the truck hard.

Expect to pay at least $1000 for a good RBV lift...one that extends the radius arms. That does not include shocks, pitman arm, or brake lines.

Duff, Skyjacker, and Superlift are all excellent quality kits. The Superlifts need some mild strengthening of the radius arm tabs, and driver's side drop bracket tabs.

Look for used lifts. I picked up a Superlift 5.5" kit with extended arms for $400. It was in new condition. If installed correctly and the lift is a good quality one, a 20 year old lift is just as good as a new one. People frequently SAS their already lifted RBVs, and this leaves a surplus of reasonably-priced, lightly used kits that are frequently offered here on TRS.

My thoughts on body lifts:

Body lifts are great and should be used in combination with a suspension lift. Body lifts have the following advantages over suspension lifts: You don't need to mess with steering, they are cheap, they give the clearance needed to run a transfer-case doubler, they make it easier to work on the truck, as far as getting to things like bellhousing bolts, they increase your CG less, they result in more low-CG frame and axle clearance because you can run larger tires.

 

[marlow3000]

Same thing happened to me with the diff. I just had a buddy cut that piece out of the bracket and then weld it together. Took about 15 min and have never had a problem since. I have wheeled it pretty damn hard too.

i just relocated one of the bolts and torched some of the bracket since then. havent had a problem. still want to get rid of all that twin beam crap in the future

 

[Shran]

I have about $2000 into my lift and that includes everything from the lift components themselves, shocks, brakelines, pitman arm, etc. I got a SkyJacker Class II with extended arms and new leaf springs. It was definitely worth it. I'm sure I could have found all the pieces used and saved a ton of money, but since it was my first lift I'm glad I went the way I did.

Sad thing is, I am going SAS now. TTB lifts are alright but the brackets and stuff are just not durable in the rocks and I'm tired of fixing them. That and TTB turns into a snowplow if you get into the deep stuff.

 

[BLOODBANE]

I've run a SuperLift on my Explorer and Ranger for a while now. If you do go with that lift be sure and read my fix for the drop bracket first. Other than that bracket breaking I haven't had any problems with them. I do wheel them pretty hard also. If you have a little extra though buy the Skyjacker with the extended arms........

 

[BlackBII]

Expect to pay at least $1000 for a good RBV lift...one that extends the radius arms. That does not include shocks, pitman arm, or brake lines.

I got my 5.5 Superlift kit for just under $600, brand new from 4wp, with shocks, brakelines, pitman arm, etc. (New thicker brackets, no drop plate)

I did make my own extended arms tho, expect to pay around $400 for a set of good arms.

 

[crawlin91]

yeah I got my superlift kit used for $180 that included 3 manual hubs and a 1 piece driveshaft and a set of modified rear leafs!. I will be adding some gussets to the drop bracket tabs soon. Not that theyve broken but ive heard they will.