What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[pjtoledo]

that reminds me, pay attention to the diff pin diameter.
open diffs usually have a 3/4" pin. track-locks and bigger 31 spline units can/may have 7/8" pins.

 

[Rick W]

This thing?

View attachment 147827

Do I have to reset the pin if I use this one? How hard is it to replace those bearings?

What else do I need to know before I put it?

I ordered a little better well-known brand than this one for $170 total.

I understand on the shims, all good info, thanks

And I appreciate all the help from the rest of you guys. I could do it, I’m just trying to be cautious. Remember, I’m retired, and while I’ve got the money, it’s all a hobby to me. As regards quality of the bearings and such, again, I’ll be amazed if I outlive 10,000 more miles on this thing. If I do, that would be a great problem to have!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

@Rick W

So, my F-150 has a stage 2 or 3 clutch, I forget which I bought back when. I also bought a LockRight branded “lunchbox” locker and put it in there because I was tired of the one-wheel-peel. I put a Solid nodular iron diff cover which tamps down the “clicking” but does nothing about the binding and banging. I’ve found myself clutching for sharper turns because it will bind up the driveline in 2wd resulting in banging and hopping and tire noise. I’ve gotten used to it, but it’s less than ideal. The rebuild of the F-150 will get an electric locker because the way I use that truck on and off road makes a locker ideal.

I also discovered that in low traction situations the locker has a tendency to want to push the truck in a straight line no matter what you do with the front tires short of engaging 4x4. So I end up using 4x4 a lot more.

My Choptop originally had a factory limited slip with extra clutches and that thing worked great until the 7.5” got tired of my antics and underwent rapid unscheduled disassembly. The only axle I had with the correct gears was an 8.8” with an open diff so I got my hands on a LockRight lunchbox locker and threw it in. It was a miserable experience in that truck, the short wheelbase and the lighter truck weight magnified the problems experienced with the locker. Then I had it refuse to grab either axleshaft a couple times within a few hundred miles. Opened up the diff and found that the locker was no longer in good condition, so it got yeeted.

A limited slip is the answer for street use. Period. Lockers and spools just don’t play nice on pavement.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

I've toyed with the idea of making a mod as you describe. Conclusion: the only way I would consider a limited-slip conversion on mine (2011, 3.55, towing package, 2WD, stock open diff) would be to find a 2010–2011 3.55 limited-slip axle in a salvage yard and make the swap. Ain't happening. I suspect actually finding one as salvage would be like finding a needle in a haystack anyway.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Changed front rotors/hubs because of a suspected bad bearing. Found that the outer right bearing had been overheating (discolored) and probably would have failed after a few more thousand miles at the most. The other bearings were good.

As part of the work, I jerry-rigged a system to ensure packing grease between the rollers in the new bearings. I did this before the rotor/hub assemblies themselves arrived. All that needed to be done later was to clean the rotors/hubs, add grease to the pressed-in cups, and insert the bearing cones and inner seals.

 

[Rick W]

@Rick W

So, my F-150 has a stage 2 or 3 clutch, I forget which I bought back when. I also bought a LockRight branded “lunchbox” locker and put it in there because I was tired of the one-wheel-peel. I put a Solid nodular iron diff cover which tamps down the “clicking” but does nothing about the binding and banging. I’ve found myself clutching for sharper turns because it will bind up the driveline in 2wd resulting in banging and hopping and tire noise. I’ve gotten used to it, but it’s less than ideal. The rebuild of the F-150 will get an electric locker because the way I use that truck on and off road makes a locker ideal.

I also discovered that in low traction situations the locker has a tendency to want to push the truck in a straight line no matter what you do with the front tires short of engaging 4x4. So I end up using 4x4 a lot more.

My Choptop originally had a factory limited slip with extra clutches and that thing worked great until the 7.5” got tired of my antics and underwent rapid unscheduled disassembly. The only axle I had with the correct gears was an 8.8” with an open diff so I got my hands on a LockRight lunchbox locker and threw it in. It was a miserable experience in that truck, the short wheelbase and the lighter truck weight magnified the problems experienced with the locker. Then I had it refuse to grab either axleshaft a couple times within a few hundred miles. Opened up the diff and found that the locker was no longer in good condition, so it got yeeted.

A limited slip is the answer for street use. Period. Lockers and spools just don’t play nice on pavement.

Thanks, I’ve received a great education on all of this in the last 48 hours. I was looking at one of the lockers you can put in the existing housing/carrier, and by accident, looking at a spool (didn’t know what it was) & @Curious Hound straighten me out, and, I skipped that idea. Both of those were for budget.

I ended up buying a decent limited slip, Eaton-style locker, the whole carrier section gets swapped, which isn’t supposed to have the beating and banging. You have to take the same care in turns. Pushing straight on both tires from the stop is actually what I’m looking for, and again, I’m not doing any significant maneuvers or joyriding in this thing, it’s a straight down the road rig. I wouldn’t want to tip over and spill the beer!

And again, the tail axle is a floating 4- link and all the trailer weight is on that axle entirely, not on the truck. So the drive axle on the truck is actually under a lot less weight than before I modified anything, from removing the bed and the spare tire and bumper, etc. The front axle has all the original weight of the engine and things like that, so I’m thinking the limited slip is probably going to stop the tire spin.

I’m also halfway done with installing both sets of brakes on both axles of the trailer, and then on floating axle on the truck, which will make handling in a turn or a on ramp more civilized.

I really can’t tell you how much I appreciate you guys, and TRS in general, supporting my junkie habit with these things. I didn’t have the time to learn to shoot up like you guys when I was younger!

 

[Roert42]

@Rick W

If your posi doesn't fix it, it'll be time for fatter tires

If you can get Fat enough tires on the rear wheels it'll look like a super singles.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Got the power steering pressure switch changed on the '97 Ranger, it was definitely leaking internally as the connector was full of oil... hopefully it'll retain more of the power steering fluid now... although I expect the reservoir is leaking, need to find my hose clamp stash and put a clamp around that area...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Took little guy to tag football practice in his '91. Shuffled both of them around the barnyard so I could mow.

It is really amusing driving them both back to back, they are about as opposite as they can be.

I am cramped in the quiet polite one. The crude loud feral one I have tons of room in.

 

[Rick W]

@Rick W

If your posi doesn't fix it, it'll be time for fatter tires

If you can get Fat enough tires on the rear wheels it'll look like a super singles.

View attachment 147867

I’m too cheap. I did pick up a four of the aftermarket 15 x 8 bullet hole wheels, and they also have a few inches of offset towards the outside. So with a wide mud flap, it gives the illusion there are duals under there.

But I still think those would spin. We’ll find out if the limited slip fixes it in a couple weeks.

 

[superj]

Took the ranger on a short out of town trip. Much quieter and nicer then the wrangler

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Installed a Spicer differential cover that will allow draining and refilling the diff without removing it. Used Amsoil 80W-90 for refill. This is the 8.8" rear, open diff, 3.55 ratio.

If you get the Spicer cover, fill with new lube only to the lower of the two holes in the center.

 

[Fixxer678]

@Rick W , for your headlight situation, it sounds like it’s pulling a lot of power through the light switch. Best way to deal with that would be to build a heavy duty harness with relays. One relay for high beams and one for low. Use the existing headlight wiring as a trigger for the relays. I’d say just buy a heavy duty harness (Bronco Graveyard sells them cheaper than I can build one), but you don’t have factory lights.

I'm close. But can't find what I'm looking for in here. Probly a very old topic. Hdlite switch hot pin enuff to melt the connector. Oem upgrade from ford was fatter wires.less room dimmer still pushed the switch over and broke stock hdlite switch when dash reinstalled. Using 2 30amp switches in place of hdlite switch. I need to trace back and separate dash and license plate lights to 1. And the 6 drl to another to split the load. Rear view cam is on the 3rd switch. Can b moved so no prob ther. Just haven't had time to rip into dash.

 

[Fixxer678]

I'm close. But can't find what I'm looking for in here. Probly a very old topic. Hdlite switch hot pin enuff to melt the connector. Oem upgrade from ford was fatter wires.less room dimmer still pushed the switch over and broke stock hdlite switch when dash reinstalled. Using 2 30amp switches in place of hdlite switch. I need to trace back and separate dash and license plate lights to 1. And the 6 drl to another to split the load. Rear view cam is on the 3rd switch. Can b moved so no prob ther. Just haven't had time to rip into dash.

I figure this hot pin problem is an ancient post in here its been bone stock for over 18 yrs and now I'm addressing stuff that bugs me

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Well... thats probably not good.

Edit: apparently I bought the TrakMotive lifetime warranty ones. So... nbd, maybe. We will all find out if they honor their warranty.