What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[SenorNoob]

Put the coil pack on. Noticed that one of my spark plug wires had a shard bend where it was folded up against the intake. Now I'm wondering if an internally broken plug wire is a possibility. It was definitely better at first...

 

[rumblecloud]

Finally got around to putting the front bumper and newly added front fog lamps and fascia. It'd not perfect yet and prolly never will be, but it's on. This is the good side. Other side is the raw door. Gotta paint that next and maybe do something to the bed cuz the clearcoat is pealing pretty bad.

 

[Uncle Gump]

That looks good...

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Finally got around to putting the front bumper and newly added front fog lamps and fascia. It'd not perfect yet and prolly never will be, but it's on. This is the good side. Other side is the raw door. Gotta paint that next and maybe do something to the bed cuz the clearcoat is pealing pretty bad.

View attachment 145888

$350

 

[Rick W]

Finally got around to putting the front bumper and newly added front fog lamps and fascia. It'd not perfect yet and prolly never will be, but it's on. This is the good side. Other side is the raw door. Gotta paint that next and maybe do something to the bed cuz the clearcoat is pealing pretty bad.

View attachment 145888

Looks good. I recently added one of those lower valances that hold the fog lamps and put in some super bright Amber halogens. I love the way it looks, but what I love more is I can see a mile down the road when those lights are on in the dark or light fog. I aimed mine for the stripes on the road. Worked fantastic for going through the West Virginia mountains on the way to Carlisle at night.

 

[Jazzer]

Greasing my caliper slide pins didn't work. Further examination showed a piston blistered right where the seal rides, and an unevenly worn brake pad.

I replaced pistons, seals, and dust boots. I bought Powerstop ceramic/carbon fiber severe duty pads to tame the ferocity of this 2.3l Duratec.

The ears of the pads were poorly stamped, and didn't even fit the supplied anti-rattle clips. It took an hour of careful grinding to achieve an adequate fit, accounting for heat expansion but not too loose.

If my foot doesn't lie, it takes less pressure to stop now.

 

[sgtsandman]

I ordered up the parts cannon to fix all the possible causes of the hot no start issue on the 2011. Hopefully, one of them will fix the problem and not leave me stranded again. While I was at it, I ordered a new multi-function switch since the one in the truck has had a pawl issue for a while when making left turns.

Once I get in the driveway, I'll test spark, though it seems to have that, and use a noid light to check signal to the injectors. It has fuel for sure since it sprayed quite strongly when it wouldn't start last time.

Parts that may possibly be the issue, crank position sensor, TPS, engine coolant sensor (doubtful but in for a penny, in for a pound), IAC, and coil. Except for the IAC, I was able to find all of them in the Motorcraft brand. I am keeping in mind that aftermarket IACs have been known to be problematic. So, it the truck seems to be fixed, I'll keep the OG, just in case.

 

[Curious Hound]

I ordered up the parts cannon to fix all the possible causes of the hot no start issue on the 2011. Hopefully, one of them will fix the problem and not leave me stranded again. While I was at it, I ordered a new multi-function switch since the one in the truck has had a pawl issue for a while when making left turns.

Once I get in the driveway, I'll test spark, though it seems to have that, and use a noid light to check signal to the injectors. It has fuel for sure since it sprayed quite strongly when it wouldn't start last time.

Parts that may possibly be the issue, crank position sensor, TPS, engine coolant sensor (doubtful but in for a penny, in for a pound), IAC, and coil. Except for the IAC, I was able to find all of them in the Motorcraft brand. I am keeping in mind that aftermarket IACs have been known to be problematic. So, it the truck seems to be fixed, I'll keep the OG, just in case.

Good luck. Wear hearing protection when firing the parts cannon. That thing gets loud.

 

[Rick W]

When I was driving the Missing Linc last night, the headlights seemed dim when I looked at the alternator, and it was running below halfway. It’s a 1987 2.9 with the alternator with the internal voltage regulator, no voltage regulator on the fender. V belts.

I haven’t really checked it out yet, it was in the mid 90s here today, and these old bones just don’t need to fix it that bad in this kind of heat. I haven’t checked out the battery and the connections yet, but…

I doubt it’s original. I put in a 40,000 mile rebuilt and upgraded 2.9 when I bought it. None of the wiring seems to be spliced, it looks all original

What are my options for a higher output alternator? And I don’t want to spend a lot nor have to do a ton of custom work.

 

[Curious Hound]

First, I would check to see if the regulator can be replaced. Many of them are just screwed onto the rear of the alternator.

Then, read this and the other tech articles we have about alternator upgrades.

130 Amp Alternator Upgrade - The Ranger Station

This is how to replace a 60-amp alternator with a 130-amp alternator on a 1990 Ford Ranger and Bronco II 2.9L.

www.therangerstation.com

 

[sgtsandman]

When I was driving the Missing Linc last night, the headlights seemed dim when I looked at the alternator, and it was running below halfway. It’s a 1987 2.9 with the alternator with the internal voltage regulator, no voltage regulator on the fender. V belts.

I haven’t really checked it out yet, it was in the mid 90s here today, and these old bones just don’t need to fix it that bad in this kind of heat. I haven’t checked out the battery and the connections yet, but…

I doubt it’s original. I put in a 40,000 mile rebuilt and upgraded 2.9 when I bought it. None of the wiring seems to be spliced, it looks all original

What are my options for a higher output alternator? And I don’t want to spend a lot nor have to do a ton of custom work.

https://js-alternators.com/products/1986-1989-ford-ranger-2-9l-250-320amp-high-output-alternator

 

[Roert42]

I think I got the Auto PCM in my 2011 to work properly with my manual trans. like 90% there, just a little more testing to do and then clean up the wiring.


As a reward for cooperating with me, I washed it and waxed it.

 

[Rick W]

First, I would check to see if the regulator can be replaced. Many of them are just screwed onto the rear of the alternator.

Then, read this and the other tech articles we have about alternator upgrades.

130 Amp Alternator Upgrade - The Ranger Station

This is how to replace a 60-amp alternator with a 130-amp alternator on a 1990 Ford Ranger and Bronco II 2.9L.

www.therangerstation.com

Thanks. I’m embarrassed to say I don’t know my way around the tech articles, TRS. But I did look before I got lazy and just asked.

 

[Rick W]

https://js-alternators.com/products/1986-1989-ford-ranger-2-9l-250-320amp-high-output-alternator

Thanks. That’s exactly the kind of information I’m looking for, except for the whole $399 plus some other adapters, belt and such. I’m not sure the whole truck is worth $399….

I was hoping for more like “If you get the alternator from a 1993 Lincoln super sport whatever, or a 97 mercury who knows what, and you swap this wire to that wire…

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thanks. That’s exactly the kind of information I’m looking for, except for the whole $399 plus some other adapters, belt and such. I’m not sure the whole truck is worth $399….

I was hoping for more like “If you get the alternator from a 1993 Lincoln super sport whatever, or a 97 mercury who knows what, and you swap this wire to that wire…

Yea, no. The junkyard swap upgrade involves a custom bracket and changing a pulley, IIRC