Another rear end question.

[BobSacamano]

I’m about to put the 8.8 rear end and at the last moment decided to check the vent tube. I could not blow air through it with the drain plug open so I unscrewed it and it is totally blocked. With something metallic. Is it a check valve? I thought it was supposed to be completely open.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

If there's a vent cap, I'd expect it to be at the other end of the hose.

That looks like mud from here. I'd pop whatever it is out of there and take a closer look.

 

[Curious Hound]

That fitting should be wide open, basically a barbed hose fitting. Stick it in a vice and run a drill through it. The other end should have some type of breather that allows air to flow but keeps dirt out and should also be mou ted high, above anticipated water intrusion levels.

 

[BobSacamano]

Thanks guys. I took the vent off the 7.5 to see what it looks like. So I am unclogging it now. Surprisingly the 7.5 vent doesn’t fit the 8.8. Thanks again for your help.

 

[BobSacamano]

I should probably start another thread, but I know you guys will see this. I’ve got my axle in place and am using new Ubolts. I found the spec to be 76 foot pounds but I mistakenly set my torque wrench to 90. Is that too tight?

 

[pjtoledo]

that would depend on the bolt diameter, thread pitch, material and lubrication of the replacement bolts.
as an example 1/2" wheel lug nuts, fine thread, are spec'd at 105 dry.

if the bolts were still tightening I would not worry. if the torque was leveling out and the nuts kept turning then the bolts stretched too much and are weakened.

 

[BobSacamano]

that would depend on the bolt diameter, thread pitch, material and lubrication of the replacement bolts.
as an example 1/2" wheel lug nuts, fine thread, are spec'd at 105 dry.

if the bolts were still tightening I would not worry. if the torque was leveling out and the nuts kept turning then the bolts stretched too much and are weakened.

They are 1/2-20, fine thread, Grade 5 steel.

 

[Curious Hound]

1/2"-20, grade 5 torque spec is 64-85 ft-lbs. You're roughly 5.9% over. I wouldn't be too concerned. That's probably close to the calibration spec for most consumer grade torque wrenches.

 

[BobSacamano]

OK. Thank you. I am still learning. I can’t believe I’ve made such a stupid mistake, but I feel better now.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

OK. Thank you. I am still learning. I can’t believe I’ve made such a stupid mistake, but I feel better now.

It happens. A lot of times anymore if torque spec is important, I stop and look it up. Starting to think I should make a cheat sheet or two for the shop.

 

[Curious Hound]

It happens. A lot of times anymore if torque spec is important, I stop and look it up. Starting to think I should make a cheat sheet or two for the shop.

It would be easy to print out some charts (metric and SAE) from the internet. The majority if what we do on these trucks is normal common torque specs for the fasteners. You have to be conscious of which part of the chart you are using;

What grade of fastener and fastener material

Dry or Wet (lubricated with oil or anti-seize)

What material is the fastener threading into - steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass, copper, etc.

The biggest exceptions to this are specific operations like head bolts or torque-to-yield bolts. Always follow proper procedures for critical operations like that.

For example

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque-Tension%20Chart%20for%20A307%20Gr5%20Gr8%20Gr9.pdf