Valve Cover Gaskets and 4WD Issues

[kdenmcfish]

Hi All,

Been enjoying daily driving the truck for the last couple months without needing to replace anything, perhaps I got ahead of myself:

1) I've been noticing a small amount of oil puddling after each drive lately and as far as I can tell it's coming from what I read to be the valve covers (per other forums I have been researching, the identical grey covers on either side of the intake manifold, photo attached. First project truck... bear with me). There is some smoke from what I presume to be oil hitting the exhaust manifold after driving, and an odor. There seems to be come controversy online about cork vs. rubber gaskets but the discussions are typically outdated. Just curious if this is as easy of a replacement as it looks, and if there are any clear winners when it comes to replacement gaskets here. From what I read, may be going with some RTV around the bolts as well in case of any warpage.

2) With winter approaching and the truck running generally well I have started to look into the 4WD system. I have auto hubs, which seem to be working at this time (with 4WD active, my front wheels are binding when attempting a sharp turn). However, there is a horrendous clunking when I shift from forward gear into reverse and apply throttle, or when I give the front axle any sort of real power. Here is a video showing this. First guess is U-Joints, which have been replaced in the back, but not the front... transmission mount is also new. Would anybody with more expertise be willing to provide their consensus? I have read quite a bit about the perks of manual hub swapping and am curious if this is something I should be considering before the Colorado snow arrives.

Any/all help and information are appreciated. Thanks ahead of time!

 

[franklin2]

The 2.9 is famous for valve cover oil leaks. You can live with the leaks as long as you can stand it, it just makes a stink and some smoke. Or you can just get in the habit of changing them every 2 or 3 years.

I have tried everything, what seems to working pretty well lately, my last experiment, is to just use rtv, no gaskets. I do not know if guys realize this, I picked this up somewhere, but you can go to Lowes and buy the high quality pure clear silicone in a tube for a gun, and it works just was well as the little squeeze tube you buy in the store. And you get a lot more of it. This last time I cleaned everything up really well, got all the wires out of the way, and put a thick bead with the caulk gun all around the valve cover. I then carefully sat it down on the head, and gently started the bolts. I did not tighten them, just pushed it down enough to get a couple of threads started. I did both sides and then left it overnight. The next day I tightened it down snug.

No leaks for about 6 months. Then I could smell some leaks. So I went out and tighten the bolts down some more. The leaks stopped and it has not leaked for about a year now. So far that is just as good as new gaskets, so I am waiting to see how far I get with it.

On the 4x4, I would keep the auto hubs as long as they work. I had auto hubs on my 86 ranger and they always worked. But the electronic shift thing hardly every worked. If you have electronic shift and it still works, then good for you.

As far as the clunking, I would jack up the front of the truck so both front tires are off the ground, leave it in 2wd, and then get under there and manually turn the front driveshaft. If your auto hubs are working, you will find you won't be able to turn it much before the hubs lock in. While you are messing the front driveshaft, make sure it's tight with no play in the joints. Turn it back and forth and make sure both front tires turn. If one doesn't turn, that hub may not be working. Then go out and lay down behind each front tire, turn the tire back and forth while observing the little joints on the axles. You will have one on the driver's side, and two on the pass side. Look for play. Also on the pass side reach up inside the pass side beam and wiggle the axle shaft. If there is a lot of side to side play, you slip joint on that side may be worn out.

 

[kdenmcfish]

The 2.9 is famous for valve cover oil leaks. You can live with the leaks as long as you can stand it, it just makes a stink and some smoke. Or you can just get in the habit of changing them every 2 or 3 years.

I have tried everything, what seems to working pretty well lately, my last experiment, is to just use rtv, no gaskets. I do not know if guys realize this, I picked this up somewhere, but you can go to Lowes and buy the high quality pure clear silicone in a tube for a gun, and it works just was well as the little squeeze tube you buy in the store. And you get a lot more of it. This last time I cleaned everything up really well, got all the wires out of the way, and put a thick bead with the caulk gun all around the valve cover. I then carefully sat it down on the head, and gently started the bolts. I did not tighten them, just pushed it down enough to get a couple of threads started. I did both sides and then left it overnight. The next day I tightened it down snug.

No leaks for about 6 months. Then I could smell some leaks. So I went out and tighten the bolts down some more. The leaks stopped and it has not leaked for about a year now. So far that is just as good as new gaskets, so I am waiting to see how far I get with it.

On the 4x4, I would keep the auto hubs as long as they work. I had auto hubs on my 86 ranger and they always worked. But the electronic shift thing hardly every worked. If you have electronic shift and it still works, then good for you.

As far as the clunking, I would jack up the front of the truck so both front tires are off the ground, leave it in 2wd, and then get under there and manually turn the front driveshaft. If your auto hubs are working, you will find you won't be able to turn it much before the hubs lock in. While you are messing the front driveshaft, make sure it's tight with no play in the joints. Turn it back and forth and make sure both front tires turn. If one doesn't turn, that hub may not be working. Then go out and lay down behind each front tire, turn the tire back and forth while observing the little joints on the axles. You will have one on the driver's side, and two on the pass side. Look for play. Also on the pass side reach up inside the pass side beam and wiggle the axle shaft. If there is a lot of side to side play, you slip joint on that side may be worn out.

Thanks for such a thorough response, I will look into these next weekend!