Slightly extended shocks- who makes them? 02 4wd

[cmcolfax]

Thanks all!

The Google found me several places online that have them/make them.
$150-170 each seems to be the common price.
Most with the bushings already installed.

Shipping is +/- $100.

Which pushes what was a +/-$400 project close to a $1000 project.

I've fought with enough rusty Jeep spring and shackle hangers and bolts, that I would just order new ones.
Trying to burn out bushings is difficult and produces nasty amounts of black smoke when the hottest thing you've got access to is a MAP torch too!

I'll prolly stick with the AAL for now, ride comfort isn't my highest priority, so I am willing to sacrifice there a little to keep my costs lower.
I'll see if I have any luck finding a 98-07 to snag the blocks and keys while I am at it.
IIRC from my Suburbans, (they use the same torsion bar suspension as the Ranger and I tore a couple of them apart) you can release the tension on the bars/keys without the "special tool" by d/c'ing the lower shock mount, lower ball joint and sway bar links so the LCA droops all the way down.

 

[Uncle Gump]

While torsion bars can be done without the tool... they're so much easier with the tool.

I bought an OTC tool on Amazon that was an open box and cheap. Small price to pay for the safety and simplicity.

I'll add if you do go with "lift keys" the danger factor increases and the tool is a no Brainer.

You may also be able to rent one from a local parts store.

 

[sgtsandman]

Whike you can get the springs online... I opted for dealing with a local spring shop. They did cost a couple dollars more but they also had the hardware I needed and that made buying local vs online a wash. They were grateful for the business and it added a good source for other things I may need in the future.

I would have went local but all they offered was the 1,250# springs and the lower weight springs.

 

[cmcolfax]

While torsion bars can be done without the tool... they're so much easier with the tool.

I bought an OTC tool on Amazon that was an open box and cheap. Small price to pay for the safety and simplicity.

I'll add if you do go with "lift keys" the danger factor increases and the tool is a no Brainer.

You may also be able to rent one from a local parts store.

I was working from memory about how to release them without the tool...

I could be wrong.

And I agree, you need to use it to put them back in! I've rented them from AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly's...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I was working from memory about how to release them without the tool...

I could be wrong.

And I agree, you need to use it to put them back in! I've rented them from AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly's...

I’ve tried that method you mentioned, on my 00 it didn’t really work to release them. Maybe on the later trucks. I didn’t have the tool back when I replaced the lower control arms, I had to pull the arm and T-bar plus key all at once, then I got creative with a porta-power to get it back together. I have the tool now and just removed both keys super easy recently so I can put a set of 2010 keys in. Hopefully those will get the front as low as I want it. Tool works way better than any other method.

 

[cmcolfax]

Here's yet another sidebar...

Who would have thought that something as simple as u-bolts would have so much conflicting information with regard to sizes?



Apparently they are either 1/2 or 9/16, they might be 3/8, but so-and-so insists his are 5/8...
They are 2.75, 3, or 3.25 unless it was built on a Tuesday, then they might be 2.875...
Yeah, your RPO codes or build sheet should specify if you have the 7.5 or the 8.8 rear end, and thus indicate your axle tube size.
That only applies if it was built on a date with a 1 in it and if it was first or third shift that put it together (because fawk those second shift guys) tho...
They might be 6 or 8 or 9 inches long, but that won't matter if you are adding a pre-07 block, or an aftermarket lift block, or an AAL...
Then just for fun, throw in the last-year-of-production variable, because Ford used whatever parts were left...
(See also: 86 CJ7, 95 YJ Wrangler, 98 ZJ Grand Cherokee, 98/99 MK3 Jetta... Yup, I've owned all of the above.)

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Here's yet another sidebar...

Who would have thought that something as simple as u-bolts would have so much conflicting information with regard to sizes?



Apparently they are either 1/2 or 9/16, they might be 3/8, but so-and-so insists his are 5/8...
They are 2.75, 3, or 3.25 unless it was built on a Tuesday, then they might be 2.875...
Yeah, your RPO codes or build sheet should specify if you have the 7.5 or the 8.8 rear end, and thus indicate your axle tube size.
That only applies if it was built on a date with a 1 in it and if it was first or third shift that put it together (because fawk those second shift guys) tho...
They might be 6 or 8 or 9 inches long, but that won't matter if you are adding a pre-07 block, or an aftermarket lift block, or an AAL...
Then just for fun, throw in the last-year-of-production variable, because Ford used whatever parts were left...
(See also: 86 CJ7, 95 YJ Wrangler, 98 ZJ Grand Cherokee, 98/99 MK3 Jetta... Yup, I've owned all of the above.)

Yeah, I usually just go pull a tape measure. I have a book for important information for each truck and do you think I could put those sort of specs in there? Nope… I need to do better…

 

[sgtsandman]

Here's yet another sidebar...

Who would have thought that something as simple as u-bolts would have so much conflicting information with regard to sizes?



Apparently they are either 1/2 or 9/16, they might be 3/8, but so-and-so insists his are 5/8...
They are 2.75, 3, or 3.25 unless it was built on a Tuesday, then they might be 2.875...
Yeah, your RPO codes or build sheet should specify if you have the 7.5 or the 8.8 rear end, and thus indicate your axle tube size.
That only applies if it was built on a date with a 1 in it and if it was first or third shift that put it together (because fawk those second shift guys) tho...
They might be 6 or 8 or 9 inches long, but that won't matter if you are adding a pre-07 block, or an aftermarket lift block, or an AAL...
Then just for fun, throw in the last-year-of-production variable, because Ford used whatever parts were left...
(See also: 86 CJ7, 95 YJ Wrangler, 98 ZJ Grand Cherokee, 98/99 MK3 Jetta... Yup, I've owned all of the above.)

I'm trying to remember what I got for my 2011. I think they are 1/2" with a 3.25" diameter hoop. I had a local spring and driveshaft company make them for me since I ran into the same problem you are having. If you have calipers, measure the shank of the u-bolts and the axle tube to confirm. As far as length, I haven't a clue what I asked for. Probably 9". The factory plates still fit but I do seem to remember that the fit was pretty snug going through the holes so I could install the nuts.

 

[cmcolfax]

I'm just glad you all saw and understood the humor and frustration!



I guess I have a habit of buying last-year-of-production vehicles.

I had a pile of OT on this paycheck so I was putting together my parts order list for my lift/level and wanted to include new u-bolts from the start, but it's been raining for two straight days and I haven't been able to/wanted to go measure what's on there from the factory.

The perils of a rented house and an open driveway.
(The ex-wife got the attached, insulated, heated, LED lit, outlets-on-dedicated-breaker, 2.5 car garage. )

 

[cmcolfax]

Yeah, I usually just go pull a tape measure. I have a book for important information for each truck and do you think I could put those sort of specs in there? Nope… I need to do better…

When I sold my 01 MK4 Golf I gave the kid a Word doc with cross references because it was a later production car and had a different engine code than the early ones and didn't match the "default" when you looked up parts. Most of the time I ordered based on an 02 or 03.

Same with my 99 MK3 Jetta. *Officially* the last year of the MK3 was 98.
Mine was one of the few that were made in Germany, not Mexico, and was imported as a 99.

Even one of my rifles has conflicting years related to its serial number.
(I solved that mystery tho, and it made it MORE interesting!)

Hell, I may-or-may-not have manipulated the year of manufacture on my fire helmet to keep it from "aging out" and being forced to replace it.

I need better hobbies...

 

[cmcolfax]

... just removed both keys super easy recently so I can put a set of 2010 keys in. Hopefully those will get the front as low as I want it.

Do you already have the 2010 keys?

What are you doing with the ones from your 00?

If you are not in a rush, wanna trade?
My 11's for your 00's?

If you are in a hurry or are already done, wanna sell me the 00's?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I don’t have an ex-wife, but I still do everything outside in a gravel driveway. It’s a real pain, especially in bad weather. I have a couple pop-up canopies and I’ve been kicking around the idea of trying to get a metal carport to have something to work under. I have a metal garage in pieces but no flat place to assemble it yet. A carport will be nice even after I put the garage up because I won’t have room to move everything inside until I can build the permanent garage which is going to be awhile. Working outside is a challenge all it’s own.

I’ve had my share of late/early production and oddballs. Then I go modifying things. I used to keep all of that information in my head, but I’ve had my bell rung a few times and just don’t remember like I used to. So I have books. My Choptop is a prime example, other than body parts, pretty much nothing on it can be looked up under an 89 Bronco II 2wd because it hasn’t been that for a long time. It’s more 4.0 Ranger 4x4 than anything these days. The original build on it was essentially a shoestring junkyard build. I bought the rig, converted to 4x4, lifted it and 33” tires all for about $1,500

Do you already have the 2010 keys?

What are you doing with the ones from your 00?

If you are not in a rush, wanna trade?
My 11's for your 00's?

If you are in a hurry or are already done, wanna sell me the 00's?

So, I do have the 2010 keys already. I also have a set of keys from a 98 Explorer. I want to do a comparison of all the keys and document it, then I haven’t decided what I want to do with the 00 keys. That whole project is kind of on the back burner for a moment. Been trying to deal with some stuff for my parents because I’m tired of them being in my ear about stuff all the time and it hasn’t gone well.

I also need to try fixing the pinion angle in my Choptop because some dummy (me) gave no thought to U-joint angles when it got the perches welded on. I’m hoping I can correct it without binding the driveshaft. That needs done before this time next week. Then maybe I can get back to the Ranger. So I’ll give it some thought and maybe after next week we can see where I’m at.

 

[sgtsandman]

I'm just glad you all saw and understood the humor and frustration!



I guess I have a habit of buying last-year-of-production vehicles.

I had a pile of OT on this paycheck so I was putting together my parts order list for my lift/level and wanted to include new u-bolts from the start, but it's been raining for two straight days and I haven't been able to/wanted to go measure what's on there from the factory.

The perils of a rented house and an open driveway.
(The ex-wife got the attached, insulated, heated, LED lit, outlets-on-dedicated-breaker, 2.5 car garage. )

I'm in the gravel driveway myself. This one is self inflicted since I'm so used to doing it. I could have moved the utility trailer out of the way and put the Escape in the garage before I started tearing it apart, but nooooo.....

So, now, I wait on the rain to finish it's thing.

If the coolant system holds vaccum, I'll fill it, put everything back together, and put the damn thing in the garage like I should have from the start. I still have a valve cover gasket to replace and from what I'm seeing, the other half of the junk on the upper part of the engine needs to be moved in order to get to the valve cover. I just want to put back together all the stuff torn apart now and make sure it will run before moving to the valve cover. And I want some shelter from the elements and some heat, dang it!

As far as the vehicle year thing, this is the second time I've bought a first year model (so far I've been lucky). The first one was bought used and was a complete disaster. I didn't buy another Ford for decades after that one.

The 2011, I bought new, not realizing it was going to be the last year, or that it had a special axle only used for two years. So far, the axle hasn't bit me in the but, yet...