Porous block or tiny crack?

[pacstud]

Been there this year, I have plans and investment in my F350 and rely on it for my camping and towing adventures when 5th gear in the transmission broke this summer it put the same thoughts in my mind and was close but ran into similar issues to you, everything that isn't completely ran into the ground costs way too much and I would have still had to add camper tiedowns and figured out hitches and stuff... ended up putting $1700 into a transmission that I still had to rebuild because of a timeline issue...

Gosh, that's sounds painful. I guess I should just accept/embrace the grind and try to enjoy it.

 

[pacstud]

I agree with that method but I don't think there's going to be enough depth available for a pipe thread tap so I would probably stick with straight threads... the problem with there being a few in the same spot is there's likely a pocket that is about to pop out... dumb thing about fine thread fasteners is they're usually hard which you might not want... considering the material of the block is likely 1/4" or less I would be tempted to just go 1/4-20 with the cheapest bolts or screws you find (IE soft, even brass...) and tap shallow so it would act like a pipe plug, could even use JB weld as thread sealant or just get proper pipe dope/thread sealant (not thread tape, avoid that...)

I've been to that area of Nebraska, I know for a FACT there's bound to be some farmer that can help . Unfortunately my days of being familiar with that area were 10 years ago so am not as friendly with the irrigation guys in Hastings or Karney as I was...

Talking to my actual mechanic friend, he said maybe a machinist could plug it and only have to pull the exhaust manifold for access. I had assumed it was an engine pull. Is it not?

 

[sgtsandman]

Talking to my actual mechanic friend, he said maybe a machinist could plug it and only have to pull the exhaust manifold for access. I had assumed it was an engine pull. Is it not?

It depends. If they have an angle drill or it's in a location they can get to it through the wheel well, it might be do able with the engine still installed.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

You could find someone with more blacksmith type experience and either braze it or weld it with nickel rod. That would be the first thing I would try.

One guy I know had a water jacket cracked on his demo derby engine for like 10 years, he sealed with JB weld and it never had a problem. JB Weld even did a testimonial thing about it.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yeah, I was expecting the drill/tap part being done in the vehicle with probably just pulling the exhaust manifold, depending on year and if it has A/C or not (I know my '97 without A/C has the same heater box as it would with... takes up a dumb amount of room) there should be enough room to make something happen... like said even JB weld might do it. Once you get committed to it I would take a pick and poke at the leaks and see how bad they are, could be pin holes could be a big spot... Nickel rod is another option, a couple of my brothers tractors have some major repairs that have been done to them over the years, not by him or me...

 

[pacstud]

On this engine (2.5), if I wanted to empty the engine block of coolant (let's just say I was contemplating JB Weld), there's no plug, so do I just open the bottom radiator hose?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

On this engine (2.5), if I wanted to empty the engine block of coolant (let's just say I was contemplating JB Weld), there's no plug, so do I just open the bottom radiator hose?

There is a drain on the radiator, I would start there.

Then pull the lower hose and let it sit for awhile.

Take off the radiator cap to let it vent as it drains too.

If you don't get it super super duper clean JB weld won't have a chance.

 

[pacstud]

I can clean the snot out of it. Just sand it with heavy grit? Any suggested chemical beyond degreaser and then? Like what's the last chemical I'm putting on there before I let it dry up and then try to JB Weld it? I've never messed with JB Weld and only done epoxy work with plastics.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Brake clean or rubbing alcohol or even acetone should work... I think there actually is a drain on the block over there, I'll look tonight, I know there is one on the drivers side.

I would drill it out so you can get some inside.

 

[pacstud]

Brake clean or rubbing alcohol or even acetone should work... I think there actually is a drain on the block over there, I'll look tonight, I know there is one on the drivers side.

I would drill it out so you can get some inside.

OK. Yeah, let me know. When you say drill, I assume you are talking very small, not like a drill and tap method where it'd be slightly bigger?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I can clean the snot out of it. Just sand it with heavy grit? Any suggested chemical beyond degreaser and then? Like what's the last chemical I'm putting on there before I let it dry up and then try to JB Weld it? I've never messed with JB Weld and only done epoxy work with plastics.

As dad would say:

"Clean enough to eat off of"

Finish it off with brake cleaner. Remove all grease, grime, coolant and rust.

 

[pacstud]

Great help guys. Since I used the bar, I'm going to try the following as this is very old and I just need to buy time to build up a war chest and not rush into a replacement vehicle:

• I did the bar (copper) on Monday. So this weekend I'm going to flush it all out w/o using detergent, just water.
• Empty the cooling system as much as possible so water jacket is dry.
• I'll clean the area of the pinpricks, inspect as much as possible to see how bad it is. CLEAN.
• JB Weld and let set (days?).
• Pray.
• Refill and drive, check regularly.
• Plan on needing to do this again in the future if necessary.

I know there are good suggestions on more invasive but better techniques, but I have to take into account access, cost/benefit, and let's face it, my skill level (low). Also just money. This thing isn't worth too much to others and even though I'd love her to run forever, if I can get something for $X as opposed to putting that into a big repair, well...

I just know I don't want to switch to another model. I really love the ranger, warts and all.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yeah, I meant just like a 3/16" bit or whatever it takes to get in a bit. Honestly if you did the bar stuff and if these are just pin holes it could be fixed unless it didn't work...

I try to not use brake clean for final cleanup on some things that I'm going to glue or paint since it leaves that white residue for whatever reason... since I got the red refillable spray bottle thing with acetone in it I use that for most everything... but I used brake clean for near everything before so it would likely work fine...