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2010 ranger 5r55e temperature?


Wingit


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Joined
Oct 22, 2025
Messages
6
Points
1
City
San Jose
State - Country
CA - USA
Vehicle Year
2010
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
Stock
Total Drop
Stock
Tire Size
Stock
Hey guys, longtime lurker and first time poster. I have a 2010 L4 RWD, and my scanner is showing a temperature of 110c (230f) after 40min of slow but steep mountain driving at 80deg. Is this within expected temps, or an indicator of something wrong? She has 220k miles on her, hence the concern of a malfunction. The engine itself runs warm too under such circumstances, so maybe insufficient coolant flow to the trans cooler?

The transmission fluid seems to be slightly overfilled too, maybe 3/8in over hash marks. How much volume is indicated by the distance between the two holes on the dipstick? Trying to gauge how much to siphon.

I apologize for the potentially naive questions, this is the first vehicle I've ever purchased and I'm learning a great deal.
 
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230 is right at the ragged edge of what's acceptable. Its at 240 that atf will start to leave a varnish and things just get worse from there..

Temps like that are yeah.. probably pretty expected though considering what you described. The trans cooler IS the radiator so.. both fluids will have influence on the temperature of the other to an extent.

Start with this.

 
Typically between full and add on a transmission dip stick it one pint. If it is a little over the full mark and not leaking or blowing out the vent... shifts properly and fluid isnt foamy on the stick... I don't think I'd worry about it.

My 06 4x4 auto came with an external trans cooler. Yours may already have one.

Does it run cooler with less mountainous conditions?
 
Hey guys, longtime lurker and first time poster. My scanner is showing a temperature of 110c (230f) after 40min of slow but steep mountain driving at 80deg. Is this within expected temps, or an indicator of something wrong? She has 220k miles on her, hence the concern of a malfunction. The engine itself runs warm too under such circumstances, so maybe insufficient coolant flow to the trans cooler?

The transmission fluid seems to be slightly overfilled too, maybe 3/8in over hash marks. How much volume is indicated by the distance between the two holes on the dipstick? Trying to gauge how much to siphon.

I apologize for the potentially naive questions, this is the first vehicle I've ever purchased and I'm learning a great deal.

First on fluid level. Are you checking the flyid with the engine running? If so, then you will need to remove some fluid. If not, that is why it is reading high.

On the temperature, like mentioned, 230 is on the fringe of starting to cook. The best way to install an auxiliary cooler is to run the pressure line to the aux cooler first and then from the aux cooler to the factory cooler. The return line connects to the outlet of the factory cooler.

The reason for this is that the oem cooler will leach heat from the engine coolant, warming up the transmission faster.

It will also prevent the aux cooler from over cooling the transmission by warming the fluid back up.

In some vehicles, this is important. If the system checks transmission temp and the temp is too cold, it will keep the engine running in warm up mode. Which will eventually ruin emissions equipment.

I don't think the pre-2019 Rangers are that sofisticated but it is a good practice to get into because of other vehicles you may have in the future and it really isn't good for the transmission to be running to cool all the time anyway. They operate most efficiently within a certain temperature range.
 
230 is right at the ragged edge of what's acceptable. Its at 240 that atf will start to leave a varnish and things just get worse from there..

Temps like that are yeah.. probably pretty expected though considering what you described. The trans cooler IS the radiator so.. both fluids will have influence on the temperature of the other to an extent.

Start with this.

Thanks for the temp range info, I had a hard time finding it online. I'm going to replace the radiator and try to flush the trans cooling system, since the previous owner used the wrong coolant and never changed it. When I pulled off the water pump the other day (absolute knuckle blaster), I saw chunks of congealed something in the block's coolant lines. Radiator was so gummed up that it wouldn't drain from the valve either. Oh well, that's what 2500 gets you in California.

I'll invest in a trans cooler while I'm at it.
 
First on fluid level. Are you checking the flyid with the engine running? If so, then you will need to remove some fluid. If not, that is why it is reading high.

On the temperature, like mentioned, 230 is on the fringe of starting to cook. The best way to install an auxiliary cooler is to run the pressure line to the aux cooler first and then from the aux cooler to the factory cooler. The return line connects to the outlet of the factory cooler.

The reason for this is that the oem cooler will leach heat from the engine coolant, warming up the transmission faster.

It will also prevent the aux cooler from over cooling the transmission by warming the fluid back up.

In some vehicles, this is important. If the system checks transmission temp and the temp is too cold, it will keep the engine running in warm up mode. Which will eventually ruin emissions equipment.

I don't think the pre-2019 Rangers are that sofisticated but it is a good practice to get into because of other vehicles you may have in the future and it really isn't good for the transmission to be running to cool all the time anyway. They operate most efficiently within a certain temperature range.
Yes, fluid is being checked with the procedure in the manual (20mi of highway driving, in park after cycling through all trans positions). I've attached a shaky handed 1am picture. Will try to siphon some if I can find tubing that will fit. Thanks for the notes on trans cooler install, I've never heard of them before. Will change out radiator, flush, and add the cooler. No hard driving til then
IMG_9991.jpeg
 
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Typically between full and add on a transmission dip stick it one pint. If it is a little over the full mark and not leaking or blowing out the vent... shifts properly and fluid isnt foamy on the stick... I don't think I'd worry about it.

My 06 4x4 auto came with an external trans cooler. Yours may already have one.

Does it run cooler with less mountainous conditions?
Okay, looks like it's overfilled by a bit under half a pint. No foam or irregular shifting behaviour, but it's the original trans so I'm worried about pushing it. I'll just change the fluid and filter and get the level right. The trans definitely runs cooler under regular conditions-- I think the second highest I've seen it was 210 after flooring it for 5min up a hill with 800lb in the bed.

Today I serviced the intake and throttle body (filter, MAF, IAC, and throttle body were all caked in detritus). Intake hose clamps were completely loose and causing a vacuum leak too. Now the truck is running much much better and cooler for a given RPM. Anyways, thanks for the reassurance; I've been driving with no music or air so I could hyperfocus on the trans. Hopefully now I can enjoy driving again
 
I believe the 5R55 has two adjustable bands, wouldn’t hurt to adjust them, they should be adjusted every 20-50k. Personally I’m a big fan of doing a shift kit and new reverse servo gasket/o-rings. The less mushy your shifts, the less heat the trans builds.

My green 00 Ranger I went and modded things so I could tuck an auxiliary trans cooler from an 07 F-150 behind the grill, it’s absolutely massive compared to the stock auxiliary, close to three times the size.
 
if you see any extended run time with fluid over 220, change the fluid.
 

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