- Joined
- Aug 14, 2025
- Messages
- 2
- City
- bababooey
- State - Country
- ID - USA
- Other
- 1/4HP Rickshaw
- Vehicle Year
- 1995
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Drive
- 2WD
- Engine
- 4.0 V6
- Transmission
- Manual
- Total Lift
- stock
- Total Drop
- stock
- Tire Size
- stock
Greetings Ya'll! My son and I are deep into a problem that popped up in the ford ranger described above. It's a long story, let's go by parts.
- Fuel tank broke. I bottomed out, cracked the plastic. New ones were hard to find, hard to put in….so I made my own, TIG welded out of 16GA steel, pressure tested. New fuel pump, new filter, fuel rail pressure is 30PSI with engine off and pump primed. About 31 PSI with engine at idle, about 33PSI at high idle. If I pull the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator there’s not fuel in it, which leads me to believe that the diaphragm has no pinholes in it, and the data indicates that the regulator is regulating.
- Catalytic converter got plugged. Blew out the incoming gasket. We redid the cat, burnt it in, redid the upstream and downstream O2 sensors while we were there.
- After this, the motor runs VERY rich anywhere but idle. It idles GREAT. Runs so rich that the exhaust is popcorning….at least that’s what I’ll call it.
- Found a few bad vacuum lines over on the emissions side. Replaced them. Found a bad idle valve controller solenoid, replaced it.
- Cleaned air intake parts with proper cleaners, cleaned throttle body thoroughly.
- Redid the coil pack, wires and plugs…..cuz they needed it.
- In view of this data, what the heck is left? If there were an injector stuck open or responding poorly, why wouldn’t that effect idle too? Glad to hear any inputs, I’ll also accept dummy slaps.
- In view of this data, what the heck is left? If there were an injector stuck open or responding poorly, why wouldn’t that effect idle too? Glad to hear any inputs, I’ll also accept dummy slaps. I’ve ordered service manuals hoping to sit down and start figuring out what the various air, fuel, and exhaust voltages need to be and measure them. The truck has OBD2……but it’s so limited is tells nothing. Primative, first roll out. Kinda binary. “yeah, good” or “no, bad”. Haven’t see a code yet. Stupid question: since there is a ‘komputer’ in the loop…..would it be worthwhile to pull the battery post for a couple hours, let it die, then reboot by hooking it back up? Thank you kindly for the read, glad to hear any feedback.