Brand New Clutch clicking

[RobbieD]

still hurts my brain to see those teeny tiny splines.....

Well-adjusted clutches, do not have spline envy.

Seek help.

 

[venuspie1]

Wow guys! Thanks for all of the responses. I am not getting notifications that someone responded or I would’ve replied sooner.

Everything is new except the actual bolts which are OEM. I don’t believe anything inside the bell housing is TTY. Definitely didn’t install friction disc backwards as someone else stated it wouldn’t touch. I’m think bent pedal or something. I’ve replaced the master cylinder also so there was a new rod snapped into the pedal. Everything is new including rear main, pilot bearing, slave cylinder etc. The clutch grabs really close to the top of pedal. I purchased one of those pre-bled master cylinder’s and except for the clicking and high grab it works great.
I purchased this truck with a blown head gasket as a project and am now trying to sell it but unfortunately I got carried away and put way too much money into it. I replaced EVERYTHING. REMOVED engine and completely rebuilt. Bought a set of NOS heads and really dove in. The only thing not new is the starter and alternator. It’s been a fun project but it is hard to sell with the clicking. I’m thinking the slave cylinder is being pressed to far because of a bent pedal or something. I can stop at 1 in above the floor board and all is good with smooth shifting.
Thanks to everyone and will report back if I get it fixed.

 

[Brain75]

How many miles? Kind of a long shot 1 off oddball issue, but the clutch fork and fulcrum post/knob are actually wearing items. If it was a high mileage truck I'd ask if you checked the post too since if it is worn down it would cause issues with low grab and impossible to get to the bottom. Almost sounds like you replaced it and now it is too proud (sticking out too high). I know an oddball unlikely issue, but it would cause the high grab and excessive depth (if the noise is coming from excessive depth)

edit : ignore everything in this see post 21

 

[venuspie1]

How many miles? Kind of a long shot 1 off oddball issue, but the clutch fork and fulcrum post/knob are actually wearing items. If it was a high mileage truck I'd ask if you checked the post too since if it is worn down it would cause issues with low grab and impossible to get to the bottom. Almost sounds like you replaced it and now it is too proud (sticking out too high). I know an oddball unlikely issue, but it would cause the high grab and excessive depth (if the noise is coming from excessive depth)

I actually didn’t replace any of that. Didn’t realize they were wear items. I do still believe it is an excessive depth issue. Trying to figure a way to stop pedal travel now.

 

[Brain75]

Any place 2 pieces of metal rest on each other and move against each other is technically a wear item - that said, it would take like 250k mi for the post to wear through the clutch fork, you should be replacing the clutch a couple times before you get to that point and would catch it on an inspection. You should put a dob of lube on the head of the ball pivot, and in the pilot bushing/bearing.

Since you replaced the flywheel, it just occurred to me that the original may have been machined once or twice to clean it up, and the new one is much thicker - which means the slave height needs double checked etc etc - it could be as innocuous as everything being cinched up tight for a thin flywheel and now needs to be loosened back up for your thicker flywheel.

edit : ignore everything in this see post 21

 

[Brain75]

Wait, we are talking the M5OD right?
as mentioned in post #9 I haven't actually torn one of these apart yet. ...
With the internal direct slave (gack what a bad design), there is no clutch fork or ball post. So all the thoughts/warnings/places to check there are my bad - ignore that. Now it comes down to how do you adjust the slave height for different thickness flywheel.

 

[Uncle Gump]

As far as I know... there is no adjustment.

They auto adjust for wear.

 

[SenorNoob]

All I've seen is enough travel of the slave to just work as long as the flywheel is at minimum thickness.

 

[sgtsandman]

Wait, we are talking the M5OD right?
as mentioned in post #9 I haven't actually torn one of these apart yet. ...
With the internal direct slave (gack what a bad design), there is no clutch fork or ball post. So all the thoughts/warnings/places to check there are my bad - ignore that. Now it comes down to how do you adjust the slave height for different thickness flywheel.

You are correct, it's a horrible design. Almost any clutch work requires dropping the transmission to work on it, and if you have a V6, removing sections of the exhaust as well. It is not a fun time.

 

[Brain75]

I have the early signs of slave failure in mine and have googled a few times on here and the whole net looking at a reasonable way to convert the internal slave to an external slave - amazed someone hasn't figured it out and written a good tech article on it.
I was hoping it had enough in common with the T-5 that a guy could mix and match even if he had to go to chevy land to finish the job...