8.8 4.10 from open to LSD ....can I do this?

[Uncle Gump]

Why do you think this? You don't have to regear to change the carrier.

You misunderstood what I was saying.

I was saying if I put in a new carrier... I would choose to regear. Hell... I even said in my first post in this thread I've done it in the past.

All that said... I found a decent deal on a PowerTrax No Slip drop in locker. It's on its way here. I just have to act surprised on Christmas morning.

@broncc I tend to agree. If I put 10 or 12k miles a year on my truck... I would likely not be doing a lunchbox locker. I have high hopes for this NoSlip for the minimal mileage I do in any given year. I'll be happy with the added traction I'll get when I get to where I need it.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I think he is talking about regearing because he went up to a 32" tire. If he has 3.73 gears, I imagine it can be a bit doggy at times. Mine is with 31" tires.

I actually have a 4.10. It work ok with 32's. My plan though is 33's. I know people run it that way... so I'm gonna try. But yes... a gear change would yield benefits.

 

[00t444e]

You misunderstood what I was saying.

I was saying if I put in a new carrier... I would choose to regear. Hell... I even said in my first post in this thread I've done it in the past.

All that said... I found a decent deal on a PowerTrax No Slip drop in locker. It's on its way here. I just have to act surprised on Christmas morning.

@broncc I tend to agree. If I put 10 or 12k miles a year on my truck... I would likely not be doing a lunchbox locker. I have high hopes for this NoSlip for the minimal mileage I do in any given year. I'll be happy with the added traction I'll get when I get to where I need it.

Good deal, you will like it.

 

[Shran]

That's what I did on my Jeep and I have beat on it for 7 years with 35s, they have held up fine. About $1000 cheaper than going with full carrier lockers.

I can certainly understand why you'd go that route but that extra $1000 is very well spent when you consider the benefits of having two selectable lockers vs two lunchbox lockers in stock carriers.

Now if we're talking about two Detroits vs two lunchbox lockers... I'm TOTALLY with you on that.

 

[Curious Hound]

I can certainly understand why you'd go that route but that extra $1000 is very well spent when you consider the benefits of having two selectable lockers vs two lunchbox lockers in stock carriers.

Now if we're talking about two Detroits vs two lunchbox lockers... I'm TOTALLY with you on that.

That extra $1,000 is just for one, though. Isn't it?

If I win the lottery tonight, I'll switch to selectable lockers. If not, I plan to get a lot of use out of the lunchbox lockers and can replace them once or twice and still not spend all that money I don't have. We poor people get along just fine.

 

[00t444e]

I can certainly understand why you'd go that route but that extra $1000 is very well spent when you consider the benefits of having two selectable lockers vs two lunchbox lockers in stock carriers.

Now if we're talking about two Detroits vs two lunchbox lockers... I'm TOTALLY with you on that.

I was never a fan of selectable lockers. If I were to upgrade I would go with Detroit or Grizzly lockers, stronger and more reliable than any selectable locker. I have a Detroit in the rear of my F250.

 

[Shran]

That extra $1,000 is just for one, though. Isn't it?

If I win the lottery tonight, I'll switch to selectable lockers. If not, I plan to get a lot of use out of the lunchbox lockers and can replace them once or twice and still not spend all that money I don't have. We poor people get along just fine.

Not necessarily/depends on the application. Looking at a Dana 44 as an example:

Detroit locker - around $850
Zip (air locker) - on sale right now for $804
ARB - $1100
E-locker - $13-1400
Ox - $1100
Grizzly - $630
Lock-rite - Around $300ish
Spartan - $250
Aussie - $270

Not counting the cost of install kits, gears, a new carrier (if you have a carrier break or LSD carrier that you can't put a lunchbox locker in), or air/electric/cable shift stuff, if you go a cheap as possible and buy two Spartans, there is a $1100 difference vs buying two Zip lockers.

I understand the po boy methodology perfectly, my crawler has a Lock-rite in the front and a stock 8.8 trac-lock in the rear. I'm totally happy with that setup. My Explorer has an E-locker in the front and a trac-lock in the rear...also very happy. I'm just saying that if you've got two empty housings and you're buying everything to go in them, the additional cost of going with two selectables right off the bat makes a lot of sense.

 

[Shran]

I was never a fan of selectable lockers. If I were to upgrade I would go with Detroit or Grizzly lockers, stronger and more reliable than any selectable locker. I have a Detroit in the rear of my F250.

Hang out at our camp fire after a day of rock crawling and there will be an equal number of guys complaining about their fawking broken Detroit or fawking leaking ARB, or ______... in my world, they are all about the same.

 

[sgtsandman]

Not necessarily/depends on the application. Looking at a Dana 44 as an example:

Detroit locker - around $850
Zip (air locker) - on sale right now for $804
ARB - $1100
E-locker - $13-1400
Ox - $1100
Grizzly - $630
Lock-rite - Around $300ish
Spartan - $250
Aussie - $270

Not counting the cost of install kits, gears, a new carrier (if you have a carrier break or LSD carrier that you can't put a lunchbox locker in), or air/electric/cable shift stuff, if you go a cheap as possible and buy two Spartans, there is a $1100 difference vs buying two Zip lockers.

I understand the po boy methodology perfectly, my crawler has a Lock-rite in the front and a stock 8.8 trac-lock in the rear. I'm totally happy with that setup. My Explorer has an E-locker in the front and a trac-lock in the rear...also very happy. I'm just saying that if you've got two empty housings and you're buying everything to go in them, the additional cost of going with two selectables right off the bat makes a lot of sense.

The only thing I can say about the OX is you get more than the locker because of how their system is setup. So, you get the differential cover that is designed to engage/disengage their locker design and then you choose the actuation method you want, air, electric, or cable. Plus, they offer a get home adapter for when the actuation system fails. So, there is a reason they charge what they do compared to other lockers out there. Spendy for sure but at least there is something there to justify why they want $1,100 vs say $800 - $850 for another design.

For me, since there isn't much out there for the 28 spline 8.8, it will probably be the OX since ARB seems to be the only other selectable locker available (if you can find one) and the added cost for the compressor system isn't exactly cheap either.

To me, the automatic lockers like the Lock-Rite and Detriot doesn't make sense for what I do with my truck and I very much like the elocker my 2019 comes with.

The only thing that sucks is that I'll have to ditch the ARB cover that is now on the 2011. I was hoping to avoid that but 8.8 28 spline locker options are drying up.

 

[Shran]

Ox has been around forever and I'd be awful tempted to get one and make it electrically activated if I was in the market. The only thing that scares me about those is the diff cover/cables/ etc getting damaged... I know guys who have hit things so hard that they have sheared off the diff cover entirely or shifted it quite a bit.

I think the Eaton E-locker design is my favorite, it's just a big magnet that locks it. The downside on my particular one is that one wheel needs about 1/2 a rotation before it actually locks. Supposedly they have another e-locker line that locks instantly but it's not available for the Dana 35.

Air is no big deal to do on the cheap, a somewhat high CFM inflator will work or you can use onboard air if you have that. Not limited to a specific compressor though by any means.

 

[scotts90ranger]

When the Aussie on my '90 gave out in '20 I looked into replacing it and going with a Yukon Grizzly locker was almost the same price... so I bought new carrier bearings and installed my ring gear with the current shims and ran a pattern and it was as good as you could hope for for the situation (slightly offset but good). I "could" have made it better but it isn't a daily driver so I'm not stressed about it...

That's why I said what I did on the first page, you "can" get lucky enough for the pattern to work swapping carriers...

 

[Uncle Gump]

 

[WutUp Clegg]

I just had one installed in my Ranger. You will need to shim it, and I would recommend getting new seals while you're at it. Also, make sure you're getting the and LSD with the right spline count.

I'm not sure how much you're getting yours for, but a new one is less than $220.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I just had one installed in my Ranger. You will need to shim it, and I would recommend getting new seals while you're at it. Also, make sure you're getting the and LSD with the right spline count.

I'm not sure how much you're getting yours for, but a new one is less than $220.

I planned on doing axle seals when I go in. It will get done this coming spring.

I don't see shimming anything in the installation instructions.

I'm not sure if you have a no slip... but the cheapest I found was $200 more then what you paid.

My guess is you bought a lock rite...

 

[WutUp Clegg]

I planned on doing axle seals when I go in. It will get done this coming spring.

I don't see shimming anything in the installation instructions.

I'm not sure if you have a no slip... but the cheapest I found was $200 more then what you paid.

My guess is you bought a lock rite...

I read a few reviews and asked a couple guys who bash their rangers. I purchased an ECCPP. I was told it's pretty much a Yukon with a different stamp on it. It is an LSD. It looks pretty solid. It's in my son's truck that's has a full baja suspension kit on it. I'm sure he'll be putting that locker to the test.

Amazon.com: ECCPP Rear Limited Slip Locker Differential Compatible For Ford 8.88" Posi Unit 28-Spline 10-Bolt Heavy Duty Replace# 19605-010 : Automotive