Need the skinny on brake proportioning and function. '94 XLT 2WD

[ForgedCrank]

Couple of minor corrections/additions:

Good info, much appreciated.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I just had the same problem. Turned out to be the RABS valve. It was in the frame rail under the master cylinder in the engine bay. a bit tight, but simple swap.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Well, I swapped out the valve. I pulled the downstream line off of it, and zero fluid was passing through. Verified after I removed it, it's plugged up.
flushed out all the fluid again, installed O'Rielly replacement. I do appear to now have rear brakes, but they aren't doing much... which I assume is pretty normal. I think the bias is supposed to be 70/30, but at least i have a little bit of help from the rears now.
I'm going to keep the core and clean it out, replace any o-rings and just have it around.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Well, I swapped out the valve. I pulled the downstream line off of it, and zero fluid was passing through. Verified after I removed it, it's plugged up.
flushed out all the fluid again, installed O'Rielly replacement. I do appear to now have rear brakes, but they aren't doing much... which I assume is pretty normal. I think the bias is supposed to be 70/30, but at least i have a little bit of help from the rears now.
I'm going to keep the core and clean it out, replace any o-rings and just have it around.

I ended up doing the same, except exchanged my core via rock auto....ended up w a dorman. It seems to work, but was not finished as nice and I had to clean up the threads to get the threaded straight. I was worried but the brake lines dont leak.

You don't need much. If cant spin the back tire on a jackstand by hand, you got enough back brakes.

If you really want to dial it in, there is a swap to manual adjustment. I think it consists of a T fitting to bypass the valve and manual adjust valve made for mustangs...I read some threads on it but decided to just replace the valve and keep it oem stock setup.