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How important are Cold Cranking Amps on your battery?


Well i sent them a message asking some questions and requested a data sheet. They only have 3 batteries for cars and trucks. Out of those 3 batteries only 1 has regular car or automotive terminals on it. And there opposite of my terminals. But that shouldn't be to much of a problem. Its the LTO battery Lithium Titanium Oxide witch sounds even more dangerous then Lithium LOL. I will also try calling them and i want to see if there knowledgeable on there products. Here is there technical specs on the battery Listed on there website.

11 Year Warranty Best in class, world-beating, eleven-year manufacturer defect warranty.
Storage Capacity 20 Ampere hours (Ah). Dakota Lithium batteries provide consistent power for all 20 Amp hours. DL LTO batteries have a flat voltage curve, which means they have a steady power output as the battery discharges. The power output will not dramatically drop like similar sized SLA batteries. You get all the juice down to the last drop.

Chemistry Lithium Titanium Oxide (LTO)

Voltage 12.0V

Watt Hours 240

Low Voltage Cutoff 7.5±0.03V

Size 8.15"L X 6.89"W X 7.48"H (207mm X 175mm X 190mm) Group Size 21, but is compatible with battery

sizes: 49, 99, 99R, 102R, 140R

Weight 11.02lbs (5kg)

Terminals SAE Terminal (Standard Automotive Post)

Cold Cranking Amps 1100A (850CCA @ -18°C)

Lifecycles (Battery Lifespan) 10,000 Cycles

Operating Temperature -40°C - 60°C

Max Continuous Discharge 200A 1,000A Max

Max Charge Voltage 15.5V

Max Current Charge 60A

High-Temperature Proctection? -4°F - 185°F (85°C)

Low-Temperature Protection? None

Charge Temperature -140°F (-20°C - 60°C)

Discharge Temperature -40°F - 140°F (-40°C - 60°C)

Approx. Charge Time 6.67 hrs with 3A, 2 hrs with 10A

Internal Heating None

IP Rating IP65

Certifications UN38.3

ISO 9001:2015 Dakota Lithium is ISO Certified per 9001:2015 standards, and select models are produced in ISO 14001 certified facilities.

many moons ago, I had a BMW rocket in the battery was under the rear seat. I never felt the battery was big enough. I ended up making a cardboard box the shape of the available space. I maximize it by removing a piece out of what the Stifter braces that didn’t seem too important. With those dimensions, I could maximize the battery size.

and other thought, the internals are as important as the overall size sometimes a smaller battery can have better power. But back to the BMW I was able to put a much better battery in it. I made a pretty stout plastic shield out of PVC to cover the two terminals so they would rub on the bottom of the seat. When you sat in the seat, you never was there, but the coils would rub on the top.

Not as much work as it sounds, if you’ve got a spotted the trunk or engine compartment or wherever you might want to stick a second one or the bigger
 
maybe we are being too critical because Lord knows they’re used at all kinds of applications. I think it’s reasonable to assume that they are selling them for vehicles that they’ve been tested to some degree by the manufacturer. I’m wondered if anybody knows if there are required safety test by the government if it’s really what you want, you are on the right track, just do the research.

But the one thing I will say from experience. Even if it’s a very slim chance, once one of those batteries starts burning, it is very difficult to put it out. It has a tremendous amount of stored energy and the fire creates oxygen so it’s hard to snuff it. When regular batteries go bad, even if they burn, it’s fairly contained.
Pre-post edit: sorry it's long. And to answer your second question first, there are definitely safety regulations about batteries and I guarantee you almost every offshore-manufactured battery out there skirts these regulations in one way or another.

It's a fair comment about being critical. I want to respond about why I'm very cautious, and then add a bunch of stuff that's intended for the OP mostly and anyone else who's interested.

Re: being critical. I have bought a lot of different kinds of batteries from China and other parts of the world, and it's an unfortunate fact that counterfeit cells are rampant in the ebay/aliexpress market universe. I've even bought cells from a couple reputable sources over the years where a batch of counterfeits slipped through. How Chinese mass production works is an interesting topic for another thread, but counterfeits/rejects/b-grade parts making their way into the pipeline is a fact of life.
These things that look like car batteries that these companies are selling are not car batteries inside. They're nothing at all like car batteries. They're boxes full of individual cells or flat pouches, all wired together in series and parallel and - this is very important - to a Battery Management System, a relatively complicated and _critical_ circuit board that makes sure the cells are charged (and sometimes discharged) properly. As with all things mass manufactured, these BMS vary in quality and reliability from bulletproof to downright dangerous.
If you look at the companies who supply these products, they're mostly from companies with names you've never heard of. If they get terrible ratings on Amazon or somewhere else, they'll just pop up next week under a different name. Safety concerns from these companies is maybe a topic for the tailgate but I've had more than a few knockoff products burst into flames or kill attached equipment over the years. Don't even get me started about these litter boxes that are killing cats - that's a sad statement on how some people think about safety, life, and profit.

I keep coming back to the same thought, which is that lead-acid batteries have been around 120 years in cars, they're proven tech, durable, reliable, very safe, and have a very long lifespan. These new battery chemistries are interesting, they have a very high energy density, but they've only been used in automotive applications in any numbers for 10-12 years. They're touchy, relatively fragile, expensive and rely on complex engineering (BMS) to keep them safe.

Long-winded as usual. Final thought, especially aimed at the OP - if it were me, I'd rather have a 500CCA battery with clean grounds, clean terminals, and healthy wiring than a 1000CCA battery without those things.
Anywhere your safety is concerned, buy products from known companies and trusted, reputable sources.
 
There are also some race car batteries from Braille Batteries. That will fit in there that might work. But there all about the weight of the battery witch isn't really a problem for me. But figure i should mention them. They have some interesting batteries. They have lightweight AGM Batteries that will fit. But some of there batteries talk about Pulse Cranking amps and im not sure what that is. I tried to look it up but couldn't really get a definition.

 

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There are also some race car batteries from Braille Batteries. That will fit in there that might work. But there all about the weight of the battery witch isn't really a problem for me. But figure i should mention them.
Yeah, the main advantage of lithium is that it's very light compared to lead... like, opposite ends of the spectrum. So its energy density is very very high, lots of power per weight. It's just that it's so highly reactive that, well... suddenly it occurs to me that someone must have shot a video of what I mentioned earlier in the thread.
I guess maybe most people haven't seen metal burn before - it feels counterintuitive. Lithium badly wants oxygen to the point it'll rip it straight out of water, producing the unfortunate byproduct of hydrogen.
 
For reference. I also use a lot of batteries. Everything from lead acid to lithium. We use a ton of AGM batteries for our inverter systems. While visiting the East Penn battery company a few years back I noticed that they had pallets of Motorcraft batteries. So with that in mind. Several local autoparts were also manufactured there. I went with a Super Start from O'Reilly. It's identical to the motorcraft I took out except for the sticker but about $75 dollars cheaper.
 
The braille batteries don't have cold cranking amp listed on most of there batteries, just pulse cranking amps. Witch doesn't really tell you much about the battery. They also don't tell you the cranking amps.

They have lots of photos of there batteries but few specs and there data sheets don't say much on there batteries.

They do have quite a few batteries that will fit though. They are also expensive batteries. So i am not sold on there batteries.

The Dakota Lithium battery seems better cause at least it list all the specs on the battery. But i sent DaKota Lithium a few questions that they did not answer, they just told me the specs of the battery again.

I asked them if i would have to modify my vehicle to use there battery? I also asked what vehicle have there batteries been tested in? I asked if there battery can be used with a regular alternator?

I expressed to them about concerns of there battery catching fire or exploding and they didn't really respond to me. They ignored my concern and just recited the battery specs to me. I tried to explain to them about what type of vehicle i have and again they just ignored what i said. So i am not sold on there battery either. I might give them another chance and give them a call on the phone and have a real life conversation with them instead of emailing them questions.

As for LiFeP04 batteries there seems to be to many to choose from. There seems to be too many makers of those batteries. I at first thought LiFeP04 was a brand of battery not a chemical make up of a battery. So i was confused at first. That chemical make up of that battery is used bay several manufacturers but i don't know witch one to trust. I am still looking into them.

I asked Braille if they could make me a battery but i am certain that i can't afford that most likely. But there is no harm done in asking about it.

So for now i will stick to what i have already. It seems to be working fine for now.
 
I just wanted to link directly to the LTO Dakota Lithium battery. It is the only battery that meets the power requirements of 1000CA and 860cca or 850cca. It is made in America i think. I have been searching online for something like it and can't find anything. It seems to be one of a kind. I don't know if its safe. It claims to be a safe battery. I might try it in the future.

https://dakotalithium.com/product/dakota-lithium-lto-automotive-cranking-battery/
 
Well after looking at the specs of the lithium Titanium Oxide battery. Im a little concerned that it can't work with my alternator. It says max charge 60amps. But my alternator stock is 130 amps or more. So maybe this other battery would work by Dakota Lithium Its a little tall though at about 1.1 inch. But what the hell. I would give it a try.
 
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I can think of many things I would rather do with $1200 + tax + shipping hazmat + the 10% restocking fee if it doesn't fit.
Thanks for your reply
Me 2 thats alot of money for a battery. It had better be the last battery id ever need or something.

But the starter in the truck seems weak i think because the battery. It seemed real weak with the even smaller battery 590cca or stock ranger battery size 59. It is suppost to have 1000ca and 850cca.

The battery i currently have is 720cca and 910ca and it seems a little better. I might have starter problems in the future if i don't use the correct battery.

But 1300$ is alot of money to solve that problem. It would be cheaper to just set up 2 batteries but there isn't room in there for 2 batteries.

Another thing about the Dekota Lithium battery is that is doesn't have regular car terminals. I would have to modify my terminals to use it i think.

So i might give it a try in the future or i might not. But at least i kinda solved a problem with battery strength.
 
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I found some cheaper batteries but there made in China. DoHon international batteries. But there sold on Ebay, Amazon, and Alibaba witch i don't trust. I can't find there manufacturer website. It seems to be only on Alibaba.

I don't want to turn my truck into a dumpster fire. The batteries seem to have the specs i want but i don't know what there charging amperage is.

Anyone try one of these DoHon batteries? Are they legit? Or are they junk? They are not American made.
 
i would think you probably have some wiring that needs to be cleaned up if the stock battery is making the starter sound weak. or maybe you have a starter that needs replacing?

i have batteries right now in two of the cars in the driveway that are 200 cca under what the car is supposed to have and they both start fine. it doesn't get particularly cold here so they work fine and they are only 60 bucks at walmart
 
i would think you probably have some wiring that needs to be cleaned up if the stock battery is making the starter sound weak. or maybe you have a starter that needs replacing?

i have batteries right now in two of the cars in the driveway that are 200 cca under what the car is supposed to have and they both start fine. it doesn't get particularly cold here so they work fine and they are only 60 bucks at walmart
Thanks for your reply
You can hear the stater spin and tick now before the engine starts with the new battery. The weaker battery i had before didn't really get the starter going you couldn't really hear it before the truck fires up. I had my stater checked and they didn't say anything about there being a problem. But i guess i could have it check again. I am pretty sure it was because the battery is weak. Better battery sounds better, weaker battery sounds weaker.
 
maybe check your wires to the starter and check your grounds. or even add an extra ground or two from the engine to the frame and from the engine to the battery negative.

a quick easy test is to get some jumper cables and use them as testers. put the red on the valve cover bolt and the other red on the frame somewhere. put a black on the valve cover bolt and the other black on the negative battery post. if it spins better or starts better, you have a ground issue in your wiring
 

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