I effing hate rust and Ford engineers.
So here is my last few days on redoing the master cylinder and brakelines.
Thursday after work I
started the "let's replace the failing master cylinder" in the Ranger. This repair also includes replacing the brake lines and the booster because of rust. And to start, I tucked out as much brake fluid as I could, then then loosen the brake lines, which crumbled apart. I figured that would happen. Then remove the two 9/16 (yes, SAE not metric) that hold the mastercylinder to the power booster. Those nuts and studs were rusty, had to fight them all the way off. And yes, I soaked them in pb blaster several times over the last two weeks in anticipation. After those came off, it was time to remove the booster.
That thing is a pain in the ass. This is all done underneath the dash and thankfully I didn't have to remove dash to get to it, i did have to do mechanics yoga to get under the dash. To make this easier on my aging back and joints i used two dining room chairs and some pillows that more ore less lined up with the floorboards...
To remove it, There is a weird kotter key that holds the actuator arm to the brake pedal, then the brakelight switch and a plastic bushing must come out. This kotter key is a bit of a pain. Then pull back some noise deadening mat that covers the four 13mm nuts that hold the booster to the firewall. Yes, metric nuts on the same part with SAE nuts on the other side. WTH, Ford? Oh, those nuts are on 2 inch studs and I had to fight each one *ALL* the way off a quarter turn at a time with a deep well socket... while laying on my back contorted in an unnatural position...new booster went in much easier, but I still need to hook up the brake pedal which is a giant pain because I have to place the brakelight switch, booster actuator arm, brake pedal and bushing all at once, and did I mention I was contorted upside down with limited use of my right hand because I am laying on it?T
Yesterday I day I am working on the crusty brake lines and calipers. Ford conveniently put the nuts for the hard lines on the back side of the coil bucket at an odd angle that the fender liner is in the way of the wrench so you can only turn the wrench a degree or two. Driver side had two fittings to the soft line, one from the master cylinder and one to the passenger side wheel. Amazingly the coupling to the line that goes to the passenger side unsolved with no issues. Had to cut the line from the master cylinder with a hacksaw. New calipers, new soft lines and let's go to the passenger side.
Mother of god.. no room to get behind the coil bucket to get the wrench on the nut because of the fender liner which does not come out without removing a crapload of stuff from the engine bay. Briefly thought about cutting a hole in the liner, but did not want to repair it later. So modern problems require a centuries old solution: blacksmith. Fired up the forge er map gas torch and grabbed a cheap 7/16 wrench and bent it so that the handle followed the curve of the inner fender
The old unit. Notice the rusty brake lines
One of the two very rusty nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster
Back of the master cylinder. Had to use a 4lb mini sledge to separate it from the booster.
Looks a bit rusty
Old brake fluid. Brake fluid is normally clear... this has probably been in there since 1997
pulled down the noise insulation barrier to get to the four 13mm nuts
This is how I mitigated the Mechanics Yoga... worked fairly well.
Old vs New
Surprisingly still solid even though it looks like you can stick a screwdriver through it
old unit removed.
New one in place and bolted in.
This is the annoying little kotter key that holds the brakepedal/ brakelight switch and booster together. it is a pain in the ass.
Old and new line from the master cylinder to drivers side front wheel. Had to fabricate that one from a straight price of brake line and create a double flare. And yes, I remembered to put the nut on before flaring the end
Drivers side with new calipers and soft line. Waiting for the line from the master cylinder and the line from the passenger side to the softline
Modern day blacksmithing
See how that follows the fender? Oh and that soft brakeline below the wrench? It was rust fused to the coil bucket. tried pulling the clip out that is behind the coil bucket holding the metal part of the softline to the coil bucket. no dice. pulled about a third of the clip out, mangling and destroying it, and the line was still in. bent a small screwdriver as well. I even tried putting an 11/16 wrench on the hex part to break it free, no luck. Ended up going out to the Shed of Wonders (hey,
@Rick W has the Shed of Miracles, so consider this the lesser, northern cousin...) grabbed my angle grinder and broke the metal hose part off with my hand and ground the rest of it down flush with the coil bucket and used a punch and a hammer to remove the rest. A fun 5 minutes of flying sparks and debri bouncing off the fender and coil bucket into my face...
Old and new line from Master Cylinder to the RABS unit. that was a cast iron B!tch to remove from the truck and a NiCop B!tch to put back in the truck, only to find out I put the wrong size effing brake line nut on the RABS end. Eff it. called it a day, sometime tomorrow I will go under the truck and redo the flare with the right nut.
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