Do I need to bleed RABS Valve--97 ranger

[bpeters2]

I just replaced the hard lines for the front brakes. The Hayes manual says to bleed the RABS valve using the bleeder valve. The problem is that the bleeder valve on the valve is virtually impossible to get a wrench (needs to be really big wrench too, I forgot the size). It looks like I would need a special narrow walled box end wrench. Any tips on bleeding this valve. Even more important, do I need to bleed this valve, considering I was only working on the front brakes? Thanks for the help

 

[metalmacguyver]

Whenever you do brake work, you should bleed all 4 corners. starting withe the one furthest away working towards the master cylinder. Pass side rear, driverside rear, pass side front, driverside front.

I dont know about the RABS valve. I have not had to bleed one before.

 

[bpeters2]

Thanks for the quick reply. Have you bleed a system (with RABS) without bleeding the RABS valve? I think I may just bypass bleeding the RABS valve since it looks like a major PITA. Hopefully there is no air in it or I can bleed it out through the rear brakes.

 

[metalmacguyver]

I never even thought about bleading the RABS valve before. But now that you mention it, I think that may be part of why my pedal is not as firm as i would like. Up to this point I attributed it to my extended rubber brake lines expanding when stepping on the brakes.

 

[JSTJ704]

I was wondering the same thing. Should it be bleed?

 

[Derek The Great]

I've never heard of an abs valve.. ABS sensors to me are just electronic magnets.. I jus did the brakes at all 4 corners, i bled the rear brakes b/c i replaced the wheel cylinders and i had the rear end out. but after that all i did was adjust the brakes and hook the sensor back up - no problems.

 

[Derek The Great]

opps, i had an ephiphony, yep theres that block-pressure pump thing. Well, as long as you didnt remove any of the lines goin in or comin outa it you should be fine.

 

[MAKG]

You CAN bleed an RABS valve, and you should if you have gotten air between the master and the valve. There is a bleed screw above the output (rear) line. It doesn't look like a standard bleed screw, but you use it like one.

If you are just replacing a wheel cylinder or any part of the front brakes, don't bother with the RABS valve.

However, I would recommend a thorough flush. Get a quart of brake fluid and bleed the four corners until it runs clear (not just no bubbles). THE death of RABS valves is corrosion. It's VERY common, and I sometimes wonder if all the complaints about inadequate rears might be due to that. It effectively disables the rears entirely.

 

[rickcdewitt]

There is a bleed screw above the output (rear) line. It doesn't look like a standard bleed screw, but you use it like one.

thanks for the tip

THE death of RABS valves is corrosion. It's VERY common, and I sometimes wonder if all the complaints about inadequate rears might be due to that. It effectively disables the rears entirely.

hmm you know i remember someones sploder losing its rear brakes without him knowing for a while.

 

[MAKG]

hmm you know i remember someones sploder losing its rear brakes without him knowing for a while.

Yup, I'm speaking from experience. It's amazing how much better the brakes work when you're using all four. It stops very, very well now.

 

[Derek The Great]

Not to mention that your front brakes will last longer now...

 

[MAKG]

Not to mention that your front brakes will last longer now...

And the tires, and the body.

It was far too easy to lock up the fronts when the rears were inoperative. It works very nicely now.

 

[jharward]

Do you have a picture of the bleed screw on the RABS valve?

 

[cvar]

See brake line photos at http://imgur.com/a/sUnMy

Thorough discussion of RABS is at http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelseyhayes_rwal.htm

The RABS is this: