Any small inexpensive mods for a 4.0l 1993 Ranger OHV?

[Angry Possum]

Does anybody know of any small modifications to get my 4.0 a little quicker. It's a stock 4.0l OHV 1993 Ranger XLT 4x4 SC.

 

[Lefty]

E fan, Seafoam injectors, engine and crankcase, use all synthetic oil, do the zip tie trick to tighten the throttle cable, switch to a K&N intake filter. switch to premium gas, chip the engine, and maybe drop a few hundred on dual exhausts. Change spark plugs and the wires if they are old.

All of the above will improve performance, maybe also mileage, but not that much.

If you do, share the results with the members. There's been a lot of discussion about these improvements here. So maybe quantify with a stopwatch, recording 0-60 both before and after each improvement.

 

[Blmpkn]

If your motor is running as it should and doesn't require a tune up.. then an efan would probably provide you with the best hp/$ ratio.

Chips are snake oil, k&n filters let too much fine particles through for a daily driver IMO, running premium fuel on a 9:1 motor would just lead to carbon buildup and less power, and dual exhausts would be a weight penalty.

Another easier.. albeit more expensive option... would be a lightweight wheel&tire package. The lighter the better when it comes to power.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Not really.

4.0 is a choked motor (and made for torque). If you want more power, gotta open it up with machine work and hunt down/mill the parts to complement them.

If you build it to hell you can maybe get almost 300hp...probably spending the same as a 1000hp crate LS

 

[Lefty]

Not really.

4.0 is a choked motor (and made for torque). If you want more power, gotta open it up with machine work and hunt down/mill the parts to complement them.

If you build it to hell you can maybe get almost 300hp...probably spending the same as a 1000hp crate LS

You're entirely right. The 3.0 and 4.0 will never be street rods, certainly not for cheap. Might as well spend the money on a different motor. The 3.0, though smaller, is similarly "choked,"

I noticed that the chip allows the engine for few extra revs before the next shift when under hard acceleration. Is it worth it? That is entirely subjective, I really don't push it that often. I probably would never buy a chip again.
I've also noticed that the zip tie/linkage trick gives a faster accelerator response when first starting out. It doesn't really increase horsepower, but those 3 zip ties are certainly worth it.

 

[racsan]

define “inexpensive “. if you have 3.55’s then swapping to 4.10’s will certainly change your launch when leaving from a dead stop.
Edit: I just re-read and saw its a 4wd s/c. I had one myself, came with 3.73’s so going to 4.10’s wont be much of a change and certainly wont be cheap since there are 2 sets of gearing to deal with. I think 4.56 would be the next step lower, but would be pricey and youd see a drop in mpg’s.

 

[Josh B]

I like my 4.0 93 just fine, and since I started driving it again, after hyper-mile-ing it a decade or so, find it isn't quite a wimp, in fact it will do a lot in higher rpm's, not crazy high tho, like 2500 I once used to shift, but up that just a bit and it will show you a couple of things, just don't go trying to spin a bearing, keep it sane

 

[SenorNoob]

1" shorter tires. Has the same effect as the next lower gear.

 

[Josh B]

1" shorter tires. Has the same effect as the next lower gear.

Wow! I didn't think of that. When my 265s wore out I didn't have the money to replace them with 265, I used 235s instead, garnering a (according to Michelin tire guide) 7% increase in revs per mile, and an equal (I would guess) 7% increase in BHP

 

[Eddo Rogue]

You're entirely right. The 3.0 and 4.0 will never be street rods, certainly not for cheap. Might as well spend the money on a different motor. The 3.0, though smaller, is similarly "choked,"

I noticed that the chip allows the engine for few extra revs before the next shift when under hard acceleration. Is it worth it? That is entirely subjective, I really don't push it that often. I probably would never buy a chip again.
I've also noticed that the zip tie/linkage trick gives a faster accelerator response when first starting out. It doesn't really increase horsepower, but those 3 zip ties are certainly worth it.

Not really...compromise of reliability is the price. Slow and steady is the vibe...

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Fresh oil and No CEL is about the best...and yea no slack in the throttle cable....

 

[Angry Possum]

Thanks, I'm gonna try the zip tie throttle fix first. I'm sure my Ranger most definitely needs this fix. Ill try it soon.

 

[gaz]

@Angry Possum ,
• Inexpensive RATES a set of parameters. I will assign <$300/each.
• I will translate "quicker" to increased efficiency.

Based on my assigned cost parameter the changes that will improve the overall efficiency:
1) tear down/clean inspect valve train components (valve covers, rockers, rocker arms and push rods) if serviceable...deburr, chamfer and increase oil passages 1 drill bit size.
2) tear down/clean inspect oil pump internal components; if serviceable...deburr, chamfer and match input/output passages (when pump replacement is required).
3) swap to 16" electric fan.
4) oil filter relocation kit with thermal valve and oil cooler.
5) performance valve job.
6) raise hood rear ¼" to ½", reduce underhood temperatures.
7) know your vehicles fuel economy, when it changes something less than desirable has happened.
8) use all full synthetic fluids; ei, engine, transmission, transfer case and differentials.

 

[Josh B]

Does anyone ever post the difference in makeup from an "OIL" to
a "synthetic"? I can almost guess what the original is made of, and know where it comes from, and also where it goes(in my case anyway, to the recycle bin at my nearest friendly parts store)
But synthetic I know nothing of where it comes from or where it (truthfully) should go

 

[Angry Possum]

Does synthetic oil really make a difference in efficiency? I have not used synthetic oil yet since it's come out, on any of my vehicles prior.