302/ZF5 Swapped Ranger Hydraulic Problems

[Acgallen]

Hello TRS, hopefully ya'll can save my ass at least one more time. Finally got the engine running with no prevalent problems there yet, but when I wanted to move the newly started truck, I wasn't able to put the truck into gear while running. Turned the engine off and pushed through all the gears. My immediate thought was not enough pressure was building to push the pressure plate forks in. I removed the stock ranger hydraulic system (Clutch Master Cylinder, Clutch Line, Reservoir) and replaced it with a recommended (Forum) 2000 7.3 TD clutch master cylinder and line. I installed the cylinder into the body, subsequently the line. The headache starts now, thinking I was all set up I tried to bleed the system, to no avail. When I tried the bench bleed is where I found out it may be something internal. The bleeder screw left open should let the brake fluid piss out, but not even a drip. I tried the brake bleed method of compressing, opening then closing bleeder, then releasing pressure. The reservoir and rubber line that connects to the cylinder is free flowing as well as the hydraulic line connecting ZF5 to master cylinder. I believe the problem lies in the cylinder itself, whether that be from myself pushing the rod countless times or being a factory fault. I'm not ruling out my impatience but I've spent many hours trying to get fluid to come out of the cylinder. I've seen other forums saying that the clutch disk or pressure plate could have been installed wrong resulting in a similar situation. I was very meticulous in the installation process so I would like to rule that out as well, but can never be 100% sure. My in person resources are exhausted so I hope the internet can help out lol. Is there also a preferred master cylinder setup with this? The stock ranger bracket is angled, so it has to work similarly to that system. I'm not opposed to fabricating something if i have too.

Body: 1992 Ranger
Engine: 1989 Bronco 302
Transmission: 1992 ZF5
Clutch Master Cylinder: PERFECTION CLUTCH 350135
Slave Cylinder: LUK LSC002B
Flywheel: SACHS NFW1129
Clutch/ Pressure Plate Kit: LUK 07057 11" clutch

 

[bobbywalter]

So ... You pulled the roll pin and used the f series slave and line with the ranger master?

 

[Acgallen]

So ... You pulled the roll pin and used the f series slave and line with the ranger master?

No, the ranger master was replaced with all f series parts except the reservoir. But yes technically i have pulled the roll pins to check seals.

 

[bobbywalter]

And it functions out of the vehicle?

 

[Acgallen]

And it functions out of the vehicle?

No sir, i mentioned in the long text that i tried to bench bleed as well and got nothing out of the hydraulics, the cylinder shaft still moves. I have a video if that would help

 

[bobbywalter]

In that case it sounds like a junk unit.

 

[Acgallen]

New Luk clutch master cylinder installed, good clutch feel but still will not go into gear.

 

[bobbywalter]

When engine is off or only running?

 

[Acgallen]

When engine is off or only running?

When engine is off it will glide through the gears like a normal truck. When engine is on i feel like i hit a brick wall. I can start it in gear but the car bumps. Would shimming the clutch or flywheel make any difference

 

[bobbywalter]

When was the last time it was separated?

Is the input shaft stuck in pilot?

 

[Acgallen]

When was the last time it was separated?

Is the input shaft stuck in pilot?

Its a new build, so a few months ago it was apart. I see the slave moving with the clutch pedal. But not sure if input shaft is stuck, how would i check that?

 

[bobbywalter]

Put it in gear....have the clutch pushed in and rotate the output shaft by hand sensing for bind.