Wont start 2.9 V6

[Dallin99]

I have a 1986 2.9L V6 Ranger that was giving me a hard time to start when it was cold. Now it wont start at all. I can here the fuel pump and it wont start on starting fluid either so I doubt its fuel. I brought cylinder 1 to tdc and set the timing just to rule that out, and replaced the coil. I have spark at the coil but still no start any suggestions? Ignition control module maybe??

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

How did you set timing? 'Cause that ain't how you set timing....

Fuel, air, spark.... One is missing.

 

[Dirtman]

Have you tried cursing at it?

 

[Dallin99]

How did you set timing? 'Cause that ain't how you set timing....

Fuel, air, spark.... One is missing.

Its got to be spark but why? I cant figure out

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Well. Spark relies on appropriate timing.

How did you set timing?

 

[Dallin99]

I put cylinder #1 on top dead center on the compression stroke and lined the distributor rotor up with the point for cylinder #1 on the cap

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

OK. Thought so. Not at all how you set timing on one.

That's OK. I made that mistake once or twice as well.

Do you have a timing light? AR you familiar with the location of your in line spark output connector?

I'm too young to be a carb guy, but guessing that's how one's set. No idea. Dad handles carb stuff. I do efi.

2.9 Timing, or some other issue.

I'm having trouble setting timing, I think. I removed the distributor to replace pickup coil and marked it, but unfortunately it was already loose and my marks probably are not exact. I did get it to start but it idled really high so I decided to adjust timing. The problem is even after...

www.therangerstation.com

So good place to start. Along with tech section.

If your timing still skips around with the spout connector removed, more than likely hall effect. EEC-IV with tfi with good sensors keeps time very well.

If checks out at 10 btdc, use arrow, not eyelet btw, and issues persist, we can move on to tfi module

 

[franklin2]

I put cylinder #1 on top dead center on the compression stroke and lined the distributor rotor up with the point for cylinder #1 on the cap

How far did you end up moving it? Just a tweak or completely around? The reason I ask, it was running before, just giving you trouble starting. So the timing was close. If you had to move the distributor a lot, it's a good bet it's now way off. We have all been there and done that.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

All this talk about setting time and not onr mention of the SPOUT connector.

Look on the passenger side of the upper intake, where the big ass wire harness is, youll see a plug, the spout connector, pull that BEFORE setting time. You pry have it way advanced.

Infact, pull the SPOUT and try to start it.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Spark out = SPark OUT = SPOUT

Do you have a timing light? AR you familiar with the location of your in line spark output connector?

If your timing still skips around with the spout connector removed, more than likely hall effect. EEC-IV with tfi with good sensors keeps time very well.

If checks out at 10 btdc, use arrow, not eyelet btw, and issues persist, we can move on to tfi module

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Spark out = SPark OUT = SPOUT

shit i missed that post i guess,lol

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

shit i missed that post i guess,lol

It's OK. Nobody reads my posts. I'm used to it

 

[Dirtman]

It's OK. Nobody reads my posts. I'm used to it

I read all your posts, it's how I judge when is an appropriate time to call social services to do a welfare check on you...

 

[franklin2]

Spark out = SPark OUT = SPOUT

What is that supposed to mean? The engine will run with the spout disconnected.

 

[Dallin99]

So I want cylinder #1 firing 10 below tdc? And I pulled the spout connecter too