Synthetic oil in a lawnmower, is it worth it?

[Mike Tonon]

I figure if I clean the crankcase out good and put in synthetic, maybe I can get away without changing it ever again? Just top it off of need be? And still get 5+ years out of the lawnmower.

 

[adsm08]

One of the regulars at my last job had a landscaping business. He said on some of his newer SCAGs they HAD to use the OE synthetic oil or the engine would shred itself. Apparently it's a well known phenomenon.

I spend less on oil changes for my mower in a year than I would on a single quart of full synthetic, and it is 8 years old. Biggest problems are that the seat is cracked and the throttle handle has been replaced by a screw driver.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I figure if I clean the crankcase out good and put in synthetic, maybe I can get away without changing it ever again? Just top it off of need be? And still get 5+ years out of the lawnmower.

I wouldnt even bother. Espicially if its an older engine. Itll start leaking/leaking worse if you change it.

Although ive found small engines to be pretty resiliant. My briggs on my push mower started clanking one day and realized in 3 years of ownership it still had break in oil in it.

Changed it, noise went away, and it still happily hacks the hell out of my yard.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

A lot of push mowers are saying they don’t need the oil changed anymore.

I have a rider so I can’t say I follow them that close.

 

[Dirtman]

I would run 1 part synthetic, 1 part lucas oil stabilizer, and 1 part conventional and then only do top offs with STP oil treatment.

 

[pjtoledo]

 

[Mike Tonon]

When I was young, the neighbor kid asked if I had any extra oil because his lawnmower was low and was knocking. I took an oil quart container and filled up with about 20 things that had no business being in an engine crankcase. He poured it in saying, “wait! This doesn’t look like oil! ��” I was like, “no, no, it is, it’s just a little old, but it’s still good.” He said the thing ran great after that.

I think it a was, milk, citronella oil, pee, salt and pepper, gasoline, water, mustard, vinegar, a wee bit of motor oil, antifreeze, dish washing liquid, snot, nufinish wax, spaghetti sauce, Ajax and some other stuff.

 

[Mike Tonon]

Man... those were the days! I used to also line drive golf balls out of my backyard, then I’d throw them back in the shed once I’d heard a bang, smash or ouch!

 

[sgtsandman]

I use synthetic only because it’s on the shelf and it gets done annually.

It’s up to you if you want to go that route but like another said, on an old mower, you might get leaks you didn’t have before because synthetic cleans better than petroleum oil and doesn’t leave varnish.

As far as never changing it again, your money but my mower manual says to change it ever 100 hours or once a year, whichever comes first. The same with the last two mowers I had before that.

I know others have never changed their oil or any other maintenance and said they never had a problem. Again, their money and property so whatever floats their boat. I’m not paying for it or have to deal with the possible consequences.


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[JackDW]

I use full synthetic in all my engines. Push mower, Riding mowers, etc. I also use it in my generators which have short oil change durations. IMHO, the older and more used the engine, the greater reason to use synthetic to add more life to the engine.

Much more important then what oil I am using, is using NON-Ethanol fuel. I keep lots of Premium NON-Ethanol fuel with Stabil for my small engine. I got tired of cleaning and/or replacing carburetors with gummed up jets. Yes, pay a little more for the fuel but sure saves me a lot of grief if one of these sits for a couple months.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/faqs/browse/mower-oil-type-and-capacity.html

That is for Briggs, 50hrs for conventional and 100hrs for synthetic.

 

[91stranger]

I'm a firm believer in putting in what it requires and WHEN it is required. For those who really think they wont ever have to change their oil again on their lawnmower then good luck with that. Yes maybe you wont have to but after a few years you will pay the price for it. I assume since you don't have to change it then you don't have to check it too right? I have a craftsman pusher mower with the 5.0 Honda and I try to change it every year. What's it cost to change the oil with basic oil? few bucks and about 10 minutes? I'd say your stupid not to change your oil. If anyone has had an engine blow up (I know I have,,, had an old Ariens that used oil BAD, and one day I forgot to check it before riding,,,, knock knock, who's there, blown motor) then you know motor oil is very important. Do you buy knew cars on the belief you wont ever have to do anything to it ever again too?

 

[adsm08]

I wouldnt even bother. Espicially if its an older engine. Itll start leaking/leaking worse if you change it.

Although ive found small engines to be pretty resiliant. My briggs on my push mower started clanking one day and realized in 3 years of ownership it still had break in oil in it.

Changed it, noise went away, and it still happily hacks the hell out of my yard.

Mine stopped running. I have no idea what's wrong with it. It acts like it is choked all the time, but the choke is moving fine.

I also cleaned the carb out really well and it just made it worse.

 

[sgtsandman]

Mine stopped running. I have no idea what's wrong with it. It acts like it is choked all the time, but the choke is moving fine.

I also cleaned the carb out really well and it just made it worse.

If it's a Briggs & Stratton L-Head, some models are known to have a carbon build up issue on the piston. I had that problem at one time. After I scrapped the carbon off and cleaned the head for good measure, the problem went away.

 

[adsm08]

If it's a Briggs & Stratton L-Head, some models are known to have a carbon build up issue on the piston. I had that problem at one time. After I scrapped the carbon off and cleaned the head for good measure, the problem went away.

I'll look into that. Thanks.