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2WD, Open Diff - Not as Bad in the Snow as I Expected


8thTon

Well-Known Member
--- Banned ---
Joined
Jan 13, 2019
Messages
1,378
City
Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
2004
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
My world is filled with stuff that needs to be fixed
2004 2WD Edge, 3.0, Auto, open diff w/4.10, Std cab. It's got new Wrangler Radial tires (they were on it when I got it). This is the first opportunity to try it in the snow, though it wasn't very deep.

I got it partially stuck messing around in my driveway the other night, but it was at that point where the temperature had just dropped to 30 and as soon as the wheel spun a little it melted and then instantly froze, leaving the wheel in a frozen ice well. Even my 4WD tractor was spinning with the rear diff locked.

Today at much lower temps it went along pretty well, especially considering I have no weight in the back. I'd like to get one of those water bladders but they're kinda pricey, so I'll probably just order a set of chains.

I can see where it could have some severe limitations, but it isn't as utterly helpless as I expected it would be.
 
Bags of sand work better and cost like 5 bucks per 55lb bag... Plus you can actually use the sand for traction. Those water bladder things need to be filled with antifreeze mix or they will freeze in the bed and youll never be able to move it.
 
Bags of sand work better and cost like 5 bucks per 55lb bag... Plus you can actually use the sand for traction. Those water bladder things need to be filled with antifreeze mix or they will freeze in the bed and youll never be able to move it.

Thanks, that's probably the best weight solution. There's a place to put a 2x4 across the back in the bed liner, which would keep the bags at the back of the bed.
 
I bought a parts truck where the previous owner built a 2x4 box with a plywood lid. It was constructed in a way that the box wouldn't move. Sand was in the box and accessible for throwing under the tires while still leaving the bed usable.
 
put the weight between the front of the bed and the axle. any weight behind the rear axle tends to lift the front and decrease steering & braking traction.
I use bags of play sand, they get donated to a playground in the spring.

lift that bed liner up and check for rust near the front, they are notorious for trapping moisture.
 
put the weight between the front of the bed and the axle. any weight behind the rear axle tends to lift the front and decrease steering & braking traction.
I use bags of play sand, they get donated to a playground in the spring.

lift that bed liner up and check for rust near the front, they are notorious for trapping moisture.
Thanks for both tips - here's hoping I get lucky with the rust. Looking for that may wait a few days, given it's close to zero at present!
 
On actual cold snow rather than the damned salt slush the Ranger and Wranglers work quite well, even without any weight at all.
 
funny thing about cold weather traction, the colder it is the better traction you have.
add dedicated winter tires and you'd be amazed at the traction.

slush packs on the tire, even winter tires slide on that nonsense.
 
funny thing about cold weather traction, the colder it is the better traction you have.
add dedicated winter tires and you'd be amazed at the traction.

slush packs on the tire, even winter tires slide on that nonsense.

Oh yeah, I’ve long known that and it’s why I usually take my chances on the backroads. I was just paranoid about the 1wd pickup truck with poor weight distribution and the auto.

My wife has a Fiesta ST and I got 4 extra rims with Pirelli Winter Cinturato tires - that thing is a billy goat. I’m used to being able to control the power with a manual in the snow, but at least with the 3.0 the output is pretty linear and if you keep the rpms down it’s fairly controllable.
 
I got a 99 1wd as well and my snow tires are pretty wore out but I still get by pretty good. I got OLD studded snow tires that are pretty much bald in the middle and a few studs left around the edges and I use a 3.5 sleeves of roofing shingles for weight. they are nice and heavy and flat so they don't take up space and I have an open bag so I can through down some shingles for traction if needed. Works good.
 
Just an FYI my local tractor supply had 70lb sand "tubes" made for trucks on sale for 3.99 yesterday. Instead of a regular cheap plastic bag they are thicker material that wont fall apart and are long so you can set them against the tailgate or along the bed side. The grit of the sand is suppose to be good for traction as well if you need to crack one open. The bag is even resealable! I picked up 6 lol.
 
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Just an FYI my local tractor supply had 70lb sand "tubes" made for trucks on sale for 3.99 yesterday. Instead of a regular cheap plastic bag they are thicker material that wont fall apart and are long so you can set them against the tailgate or along the bed side. The grit of the sand is suppose to be good for traction as well if you need to crack one open. The bag is even resealable! I picked up 6 lol.
Cool - thanks!
 
An open 2wd with some good tires will suprise ya. My old 77 F250 2wd with an open rear and BFG A/Ts havent gotten stuck, ever. Including the last big snow when i had it buried damn near to the top of the tire. I couldnt make it thru the drift, but a bit of rocking and hammering i got it out.

Thats with no weight in the bed. Had i had 5 or 600lbs in it i pry woulda cruised right thru.

That being said, has anyone else noticed that a 2wd truck will go thru more then a 4wd will in 2wd? I dont get this.
 
noticed that a 2wd truck will go thru more then a 4wd will in 2wd?

WAG;
-The front pumpkin acts like a plow.
-More weight on the front
 
Also, once the hubs are locked increased friction and rolling resistance up front.
 

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