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Pre-oiling engine


willfixx2

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2008
Messages
23
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Manual
I have a 2.9 that has been on an engine stand for 7 years. I removed the oil pan to check the condition back then and I'm ready to reassemble and drop it in. I think it block should be pre-oiled before an attempt to start it. Is there a way to pre-oil the motor on the engine stand. I would think any residual that might have been on the rods and rockers would have drained down in 7 years. What do you think?
 
It wouldn't be a bad idea. I think I would probably pull the distributor and run the oil pump with a drill for a minute or so, then pull all the plugs and shoot something like PB blaster or WD40 into the cylinders, then turn it over by hand a few times. You can't turn it fast enough by hand to damage anything.

Then once you get it in start it and let it just idle for a minute while everything splash lubricates.
 
I would do what Adsm said and just prefill the oil filter and activate the fuel pump inertia switch and crank the engine over for 10 seconds 3 times with a couple minute interval between so you don’t burn the starter up if you’re worried about it. Another thing you could do would be to pull the rocker shafts off and hit everything with assembly lube but I don’t think that would be necessary.

Just run it, it’ll be alright lol


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I had a thought...perhaps I could pressurize the oiling system through the port where the oil sending unit is. Would that send oil through the whole system?
 
I had a thought...perhaps I could pressurize the oiling system through the port where the oil sending unit is. Would that send oil through the whole system?

If you buy one of those oiler cans that hooks into the sensor port and pushes pressurized oil through the whole system it will do exactly the same thing as running the pump with a drill, the only difference being that it would cost more.

Just putting compressed air to it would not pump up the oil system with oil.

Also, the only way to get oil to the splash lubed parts is to get the engine turning.
 
I ground a socket down to fit in the distributor hole over the oil pump shaft. Get a closely sized socket and turn it until oil comes out the rockers. Just be careful you don't pull the shaft up and move the stopper on it. We had slid my stop down doing a rebuild and the crank would scrape on it we had to repull the oil pan and pump. Very easy to do

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It wouldn't be a bad idea. I think I would probably pull the distributor and run the oil pump with a drill for a minute or so, then pull all the plugs and shoot something like PB blaster or WD40 into the cylinders, then turn it over by hand a few times. You can't turn it fast enough by hand to damage anything.

Then once you get it in start it and let it just idle for a minute while everything splash lubricates.

Just did this today with a extra distributor took the gear off of the distributor and ran it with a drill. this would have been better while my engine was out
 
I have a 2.9 that has been on an engine stand for 7 years. I removed the oil pan to check the condition back then and I'm ready to reassemble and drop it in. I think it block should be pre-oiled before an attempt to start it. Is there a way to pre-oil the motor on the engine stand. I would think any residual that might have been on the rods and rockers would have drained down in 7 years. What do you think?

Pulling the distributor and spinning the oil pump is the prefered method how ever you have to properly do the re-install of the dizzy and get your static timing set and that gets some in more trouble than when they started. Yes you can charge it through the oil sender but yes you need a pump, clean oil source and what ever you pump in stays in unless you still have the pan off or drain plug out. Also 7 years on a stand it is very possible that the media in your oil filter has broke down and cycling oil through it may just turn it to mush and right into your oil galleys, then you again have troubles. Also yes spraying a lubricant say preferably marvel mystery oil into your cylinders is top on the list for darn sure, HOWEVER remember your engine is a V configuration so when you put a little oil in the cylinder where does it go? that's right sheet runs down hill quick and you have a little puddle at the lowest point of the cylinder. Someone mentioned a marine fog and that is an excellent suggestion in this case. A couple days at least after you fog it put your tool on the crank bolt and very gently turn it in the direction of rotation (spark plugs out) and if it turns ok cycle the engine slowly several revolutions feeling through your tool any spots that may indicate where the rings may have been during storage. If it feels ok, put it in and run it like you stole it.
 

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