Cold Start Issues

[D Baker]

I need some ideas guys.

I have a 2000, 4.0L Ranger,. It is factory stock.
In cold temperatures say below 35 it will not start as it does in warmer temperatures. It will crank just fine but will not fire. It will do this 3 or 4 try’s then fire up like nothing is wrong. No miss, no rough idle, nothing. It runs fine.

I’ve started putting gas-line anti-freeze in at fill-ups and seems to have gotten some better, but can still happen.

I do know I need to change thermostats because mine is stuck open and the engine will run cold. However I resorted to the old cardboard trick we did years ago, it runs warm now.

Last time I checke, it was not showing any codes.

Could I be looking at something in the ignition system, or just a fuel/ moisture problem?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,
D Baker

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Try turning the key to RUN, not START, 3 or 4 times before trying to start it. This is to see if the fuel pressure is bleeding off over night. Going to RUN primes the pump, but it only primes for 2 seconds. Doing it 3 or 4 times makes sure that all the pressure is there before trying to start the motor.

 

[pjtoledo]

I need some ideas guys.

I have a 2000, 4.0L Ranger,. It is factory stock.
In cold temperatures say below 35 it will not start as it does in warmer temperatures. It will crank just fine but will not fire. It will do this 3 or 4 try’s then fire up like nothing is wrong. No miss, no rough idle, nothing. It runs fine.

I’ve started putting gas-line anti-freeze in at fill-ups and seems to have gotten some better, but can still happen.

I do know I need to change thermostats because mine is stuck open and the engine will run cold. However I resorted to the old cardboard trick we did years ago, it runs warm now.

Last time I checke, it was not showing any codes.

Could I be looking at something in the ignition system, or just a fuel/ moisture problem?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,
D Baker

a cold running engine increases the fuel, which washes the oil off the cylinder walls, which increases piston ring wear. it won't happen over night but it will start the process after a few months.

 

[D Baker]

Try turning the key to RUN, not START, 3 or 4 times before trying to start it. This is to see if the fuel pressure is bleeding off over night. Going to RUN primes the pump, but it only primes for 2 seconds. Doing it 3 or 4 times makes sure that all the pressure is there before trying to start the motor.

Gents,

Thanks for taking time to answer. I was kind of leaning towards the fuel issue since it cranks like normal but does not fire a lick. I had tried that by turning the key on, letting the bing, bing, bing.. stop then doing it again. So I wondered if the fuel system was the issue. I did not realize the pump only primed for 2 seconds. Makes sense why you would need to do it several times. I used to fly a long time ago, we always turned on the fuel pump, counted to 5 and shut it off before cranking a cold engine. I’ll start doing it now when I have to park it outside.

I am aware the cold engine problem, which is why I use the cardboard block on the radiator for now. Once I can carve out time to pull the Thermo, I will change it out. I am able to get the engine warmed into the normal range while driving.

Again, thank you all for taking time to answer!

D Baker