Rear 9 inch drums sticking getting hot

[nugggster2003]

Just had the rear shoes and drums replaced along with new hardware. The drivers side rear gets too hot to touch after about 2 miles I've backed off the self adjusters and it hasn't remedied the problem

 

[Andy D]

with the 10 inch on the Rat, It was caused by frozen E- brake cables

 

[black_demon69]

frozen e brake cable or frozen wheel cylinders. for e brake sticking either replace e brake cables (best option) or remove spreader bars in drums (only if needed to buy time to get e brake cables)

less likely would be stuck wheel cylinders only fix is to replace them and bleed brakes...

 

[enjr44]

Just had the rear shoes and drums replaced along with new hardware. The drivers side rear gets too hot to touch after about 2 miles I've backed off the self adjusters and it hasn't remedied the problem

The key words are, "...had the ..... replaced......" Take it back and have "them" fix it.

My bet is that they assembled the brake wrong. The e-brake spreader bar can be installed wrong and that can cause the problem you described. Or, I guess you could remove both drums and compare (they are the same except mirror images). IF you get the spreader bar in the wrong slots, it will hang the shoes.

 

[Andy D]

The key words are, "...had the ..... replaced......" Take it back and have "them" fix it.

My bet is that they assembled the brake wrong. The e-brake spreader bar can be installed wrong and that can cause the problem you described. Or, I guess you could remove both drums and compare (they are the same except mirror images). IF you get the spreader bar in the wrong slots, it will hang the shoes.

I missed the "had" If the brakes weren't dragging beforehand and now they are, then take it back. I do my own work, so I know who to blame

 

[nugggster2003]

I looked at the brakes and they are assembled correctly. I will check to see how the parking brake works. The wheel cylinders show no signs of leakage at all. Where would the parking brake cable be frozen? In the line or at the end going into the drum? When you drive it feels like the truck is dragging or towing something. The previous brake shoes had cracks in them and the drums were wore the hell down. I replaced the front brakes with new rotors and wheel bearings 3 weeks ago and have had no problems until the rears were done. I have taken the truck back twice and have not had the problem remedied with them.

I'm thinking wheel cylinders or parking brake cable. How do I tell if it's the parking brake cable and can you actually drive the truck with the parking brake separators removed? Can the parking brake cable be adjusted so they don't bind? The spreader bars have 2 slots?

I appreciate all the help guys!!! It's been a blessing.

 

[Andy D]

I replaced both rear cables, 20$ apiece from Auto Zone. The old cables were frozen in their housings . I had replaced the rear brakes earlier. The shoes were cracked. Later, I took the truck on a 20 mile drive . When I got out I smelled hot gear lube. I nearly burnt my hand when I touched the hub. I had a heck of a time getting the drums off,even though the hardware was all new and backed off, The frozen cables were pulling on the shoes. Thing was. when I did the brakes over I'm pretty sure I checked them for movement. But when I tried them , They were frozen hard. The housings were wasted,

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Disconnect the cable at both ends, the cable should slide easily inside the covering. If it takes effort to move, then replace it. It wouldn't hurt to do both sides as the other side is probably close to being pooched. I haven't had to replace the front cable but have heard it's a bear to replace. It doesn't sound like the front is a problem anyway as both sides are not acting up.

Richard

 

[black_demon69]

How do I tell if it's the parking brake cable and can you actually drive the truck with the parking brake separators removed? Can the parking brake cable be adjusted so they don't bind? The spreader bars have 2 slots?

you can check cables by disconnecting them from both ends and seeing if they move freely if not they need to be replaced as stated below... and yes brakes still work normally without spreader bars just no e brake alternatively you can disconnect cable from inside the brake drum with the same result no ebrake.. however doing either should only be a temporary solution and cables should be replaced.. e brake is supposed to be self adjusting with the star adjuster (also adjusts the brake so i would not recommend backing it off as it will affect the brakes as well)

edit almost forgot the cable adjuster under driver side of truck you could back it off but if cables are frozen it wont do you any good

 

[nugggster2003]

So disconnect the cables from inside the drum and you guys suspect it's the cables and not the wheel cylinders?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Disconnect cables. If there is still a problem then cable it's not.

 

[enjr44]

So disconnect the cables from inside the drum and you guys suspect it's the cables and not the wheel cylinders?

I don't anyone is saying that. We are in a trouble shooting mode and dependent on what you tell us. If it is not the e-brake cables, then it could be the cylinder, or a bad/weak return spring, or a bad backing plate hanging the shoes, or something else. All we are sure of is that it is broke.

One thing to think about, when you replace the shoes, you push the wheel cylinder pistons back into their bores. Dirty brake fluid will/may have water in it that rusts the cylinder bore. When you push the pistons back you can break some of that crud loose. That rust/crud can cause the pistons in the cylinder to stick and not allow the shoe to return when you use old cylinders with new shoes. However, what usually happens is that the rust cuts the cylinder seals and the cylinder leaks. But, it has also been known to cause the cylinder to stick. That is the main reason that most folks replace or rebuild the cylinder when they replace the shoes.

Another thing, brake shoes can wear the backing plate and leave a ridge on it. If there is a ridge on the backing plate and you don't remove it, the new shoe can hang up on that ridge and fail to completely return.

We are just trying to give you ideas and ways you can check it out.

 

[black_demon69]

I don't anyone is saying that. We are in a trouble shooting mode and dependent on what you tell us. If it is not the e-brake cables, then it could be the cylinder, or a bad/weak return spring, or a bad backing plate hanging the shoes, or something else. All we are sure of is that it is broke.

One thing to think about, when you replace the shoes, you push the wheel cylinder pistons back into their bores. Dirty brake fluid will/may have water in it that rusts the cylinder bore. When you push the pistons back you can break some of that crud loose. That rust/crud can cause the pistons in the cylinder to stick and not allow the shoe to return when you use old cylinders with new shoes. However, what usually happens is that the rust cuts the cylinder seals and the cylinder leaks. But, it has also been known to cause the cylinder to stick. That is the main reason that most folks replace or rebuild the cylinder when they replace the shoes.

Another thing, brake shoes can wear the backing plate and leave a ridge on it. If there is a ridge on the backing plate and you don't remove it, the new shoe can hang up on that ridge and fail to completely return.

We are just trying to give you ideas and ways you can check it out.

that is why i mentioned wheel cylinders in my first post on this thread

however e brake cable is probably the most likely culprit