Need some major advise on 2001 ranger problems

[TimeKeeper]

Okay, that was weird--I managed to edit your post with my reply. Just read it and lets go from there.

Here is a picture of the broken valve spring

 

[Rearanger]

A broken spring is not too hard to replace. You might consider if you're in that far to also replace the valve stem seals on all the valves.

You can use the suggested compressed air method of keeping the valve closed while you remove the spring - piston in TDCC. I would caution that unless you lock the engine it will turn over under air pressure. If you're replacing all valve seals you can just remove all the rockers then it doesn't matter if you're on TDCC as the valves will be closed. Under air pressure the piston will just go to BDC and stay there - for each cylinder. You'll need a pretty good air compressor as the air will leak out constantly, it's not just a matter of one shot of compressed air. After you're done I'd do an oil change as compressed air has moisture in it that will get to the oil pan.

You'll need a valve spring compressor that will grasp the valve springs to compress them. You'll also need a small magnet to capture and replace the spring keepers.

Goggle "rope method" for an alternative to compressed air. I've never tried it but it looks like it may be doable.

 

[drsvox]

I think your main concern at this point is possible damage to the valve (i.e. bent or cracked stem).

when replacing the spring(s) (and stem seals) I've been successful using a $20 mattress inflator with a piece of 5/8" heater hose connected to a threaded fitting screwed into the plug hole, but the pressure is only just enough to hold the valve in place, so you have to be careful.

rope method seems pretty straightforward and easy: idea is to thread rope thru the plug hole (piston should not be on TDC); then hand crank until the piston is TDC...will push the rope up to hold the valves in place.

 

[TimeKeeper]

So...its been a while since I last posted. Been working on it when I can, and actually have been reassembling the engine this week.

Question: Misread the torque wrench and definitely went over at least 5 maybe 10 ft. lbs. on the cylinder head bolts, went over on all sequences, but figure the final one is pretty important. So manual says 63-73, I did at least 78 ft. lbs. Do I need to stop right now before I get too far ahead and redo all of this? Or can I just roll with it?

Didn't notice until I was torqueing the exhaust manifold bolts...

 

[Rearanger]

So manual says 63-73, I did at least 78 ft. lbs.

What type of torque wrench are you using? Depending on type and make it may not be that accurate. Mine's a certified click wrench.

I don't think 5 lbs over will do much harm. If you redo head bolts you may need to buy new.