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1990 Ranger Ticks/Smokes


triumph1

Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
10
Vehicle Year
1990
Transmission
Automatic
My late husband left me this FABU Ranger, but my garage fella said I needed new heads (got em)- now there is a "tick" plus white oily smelly exhaust. Hard starting as before. I need this truck! How about some mystery oil? sticky lifter (even tho' it's new!)- Compression is fine in all cylinders. How to tell diff. between sticky lifter and an electrcal issue (plugs/wires)? Also heard about a reset button on the fuel pump inertia switch? do they go out of whack - never went off-roading, but we live in the boonies. Please any advice is welcomed!! Susie:bawling:
 
What motor is it?
 
4.0 Hard to Start, Smokes

It's a 4.0

Very hard starting- takes 8 times before it finally catches. Getting fuel and has new wires and plugs. The ticking is not so bad ( I don'e even care about that anymore-let it tick and I'll turn up the radio!) Do you think a new computer would help? I think I can get one online and they will program it if I provide engine info. Is that true? Helpppp!!
 
I wouldn't jump into a computer that fast. When you crank it does it turn over real fast or real slow or does it sound normal ? How does in run once you get it fired? Does if run rough like it's misfiring ?
 
Yeah, sounds like that head job didn't take. I'd have a block test done to look for exhaust gas in the cooling system.

The block test is a lot simpler than it sounds. All it is, they have this awesome blue fluid and a cool tube that they use to pull air from the cooling system up through the fluid. When exposed to a certain chemical compound that is really only found in the combustion gasses produced in an internal combustion engine the fluid turns from dark blue to a straw yellow color.

It is best done on a cold engine though.
 
Last edited:
Ranger Smokes/Ticks

Thank you for some info- So far as I know, the cranking speed seems normal. After it eventually starts -it's smoking. Colant in the fuel sounds right since it was driven and overheated because of the manifold/head leak which was fixed by using a gob of something and obviously fix didn't work- coolant got into the crankcase. I sprung for a new set of heads (which were cracked from O-Heat) but smoke remains. Maybe after running it will dry up and go away? Also the hard starting which now that I recall- has been a problem all along. The leak/overheating came at point when hubby was too ill to do a good fix. So now- the new heads could be bad?? The test you speak of is done how?? iN THE RADIATOR?? WHAT??:icon_twisted:Susie
 
Ranger Smokes/Ticks

Sorry I missed that- what codes. Morse? Susie
 
Did he take off the old heads and put the newer ones on using the old gasket? Do you recall your late husband putting a bottle of something in the radiator to make it stop overheating?

It sounds like the heads need to be taken off completely, cleaned, and reinstalled using new gaskets and sealers. Proper make-up torque pattern of the heads is crucial here, too. Use a torque wrench if youa re doing it yourself If not, make sure someone / a mechanic knows how to do this properly, too.


As far as the "codes"...

Go to Autozone. There, they have a special device that can read the computer memory in your truck. If there is a Check Engine Light, the Autozone guy will be able to tell you what is wrong. He'll give you a number...

For instance, "P171" or something like that.
 
Pete, 1990 will be EEC-IV. Autozone and the like are rarely equipped to read codes on anything that is not OBDII.


Triumph, where about are you located? There may be a mechanically inclined member near by who can help you first hand.
 
Pete, 1990 will be EEC-IV. Autozone and the like are rarely equipped to read codes on anything that is not OBDII.


Triumph, where about are you located? There may be a mechanically inclined member near by who can help you first hand.

This. Completely and truly.
 
how many pounds torque and whats the pattern? I don't believe he added the goop to the radiator (it still has a leak)- i think he saw fluid on the intake manifold, determined where the leak was, then applied some kind of heat resistant goop to try and seal it- I don't think he cared at that point, he just needed to get back and forth to the VA hospital.
Do I just bring the computer to AutoZone or must it be operating in the truck (impossible to get it there)
Also, what do you think is a fair price to pay to get the heads re-installed? I paid $850 for the new heads-they said that was the machine shop cost/fee. Since they are friends of Hubby, i hope I'm not being jabbed, but I have little choice right now. Thanks as always.
 
Ranger Ticks/Smokes

I'm in Granby, MA- truck is also in Granby at a local garage. No reason why another friend can't look at this for me. I don't want anyone to have to travel far though.
 
If you can get somebody that nows what they are doing there is a connector on the truck that you do something to ( I myself am not sure how to do it but my dad does ) and it will cause your check engine light ( I believe ) to flash in a certain pattern but it does sound to me like the new heads were not installed correctly or they could be bad from the shop to begin with ( which does happen from time to time with ALL parts ) would definitely get a second opinion on the truck
 

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