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Changing rear brake pads on 2011 Ranger


Joined
Apr 17, 2014
Messages
7
City
Vancouver, BC, Canada
Vehicle Year
2011
Transmission
Manual
My credo
Stay on top of maintenance
Hey everyone,

What bolts do I need to undo on the caliper? The four small bolts attached to the hub(?)?

What do I do with the speed sensor thingy?

What do I do with the parking brake cable?

Thanks
 

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I'm not familiar with the Ranger rear disc setup, but usually you can remove one bolt and the caliper will swing up (or down depending on which bolt you removed) allowing you to remove/replace the pads and push the piston back in to allow for the thicker new pads. I'd try the lower one first. The parking brake cable etc should move enough so you won't have to disconnect anything.
 
Last edited:
The big round thing topside of the caliper is a noise damper, it should be removable.
When you bring it bck together, the noise damper is to be tightened to 10 foot pounds
 
I've always been able to get the caliper bolt loose with an open end wrench and just left the damper on there.
 
Parking brake shoes:

Is it possible to re-install the pads and springs without removing the hub?

I'm unable to reconnect the springs. Any tips?
 

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It is possible, but it can be tricky. I am going to give you the instructions for how I normally do it, I think your setup may be rotated 90* counter clockwise.

Step 1: (and I only include this because I keep forgetting it) Make sure the parking brake is released.

Step 2: Hook the top spring on the shoes and wrap it around the actuator so the spring pops in place and the shoes can be pinned.

Step 3: Pin shoes

Step 4: Install lower spring using some needle-nose pliers or dykes. A brake spring hook is even better, if you have one.

Step 5: Install adjuster.
 
I just don't get why you already are changeing parking brake shoes on a 2011. I got 52000 miles on my 2011, and the park brake shoes are still good :O

I checked on AllData, on they don't mention removal of the hub. Which would in fact be stupid, having to drain the rear diff, just to change parking brake shoes. 30 min job has suddenly turned into 1.5H job
 
It is possible, but it can be tricky. I am going to give you the instructions for how I normally do it, I think your setup may be rotated 90* counter clockwise.

Thanks for the tips. Yeah, my springs run vertically, rather than horizontally. I couldn't get the springs on on an empty stomach, hours of labouring and working with a bum shoulder. Had to enlist the help of my neighbour, who's a mechanic, to get it hooked up.

His technique was to hold the bottom shoe in place with the retaining clip, put the spring on the bottom shoe and start pulling like hell, levering the butt end of a screwdriver on the hub and getting the top shoe hooked on with shaking hands and some light cursing, quickly get the retaining clip on the top shoe, relax and then do the other spring and adjuster.

Good combination of brutality and smarts.
 
I just don't get why you already are changeing parking brake shoes on a 2011. I got 52000 miles on my 2011, and the park brake shoes are still good :O

I checked on AllData, on they don't mention removal of the hub. Which would in fact be stupid, having to drain the rear diff, just to change parking brake shoes. 30 min job has suddenly turned into 1.5H job

Oh yeah, absolutely. There was no need for me to crack open that can of nasty, springy worms!

I only really needed to adjust the star nut, but I figured since I have it all open, I might as well change the shoes, since I'd already bought them. For some reason I thought that this little drum setup would be less nasty than big drum brakes.

And now I need to get back in there to properly adjust the brake shoes, since I kind of rushed that part and I think the shoes are dragging a bit. 30 mins = 2 days.
 

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