Stall test...

[Lost Bushman]

Trying to test the condition of the torque converter. Anybody know what the desired outcome should be? This is going along with my "Mystery Time" post. I did the test per the instructions I read online, but when I step on the gas, the motor lags for a second then will shoot up to 5K before I let off.

Instructions say it should only max out at around 1800-2K, is this correct?

Thanks!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

1800 to 2000 sounds right to me.

 

[Lost Bushman]

Ok, so am I to figure from this that the converter is bad? Despite reading and re-reading the procedure for the test, I'm kind of unsure as to what I should be expecting, because I can rev up my daily driver, and it will go up to the rev limiter, not only a certain RPM.

 

[PetesPonies]

You have the proper amount of trans fluid in it??

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

IIRC test is done with foot on brake and other foot on gas. Without spinning or moving, the revs you get are your converter stall speed which shouldn't be over ~2000 for a stock converter. If you've mixed and matched converters you can get a higher stall, such as putting in a 9" converter in place of an 11". Another possibility is as PetesPonies has suggested....problems with your trans.
Remember that I'm not a trans guru or a mechanic, I've been wrong before and will again....just saying.

Richard

 

[Lost Bushman]

You have the proper amount of trans fluid in it??

Yes sir, according to the tell tale stick I do.

IIRC test is done with foot on brake and other foot on gas. Without spinning or moving, the revs you get are your converter stall speed which shouldn't be over ~2000 for a stock converter. If you've mixed and matched converters you can get a higher stall, such as putting in a 9" converter in place of an 11". Another possibility is as PetesPonies has suggested....problems with your trans.
Remember that I'm not a trans guru or a mechanic, I've been wrong before and will again....just saying.

Richard

I'm not in the same time zone as an actual expert, so any help is welcome. That's what I thought, I've got all 4 wheels off the ground, so there is no spinning or movement at all. Like I said, I lay on the throttle and it goes all the way up to the redline.


What my issue is, (in case you haven't seen my other post on the issue), is that when I press the pedal it acts like it's dragging a house. The motor will go up the the 2-2500 range and it will be slow rolling, and if you hit a hill, forget it. It serious acts like the E-brake is stuck, but the wheels turn freely when in Neutral so I know that's not the issue.

 

[PetesPonies]

So you have an A4LD trans?? If so I bet the clutches are shot or something similar. It's not a strong trans, they all go bad . . well almost

 

[Lost Bushman]

So you have an A4LD trans?? If so I bet the clutches are shot or something similar. It's not a strong trans, they all go bad . . well almost

I do have the A4LD. I can't imagine that it just went bad all of the sudden. I was running fine, I got stuck, got pulled out, then it just broke? Sounds fishy.

 

[PetesPonies]

No, your explanation legitimizes it even more. It is a weak trans. YOu got stuck and tried to get yourself out, you broke it then. It's slam dunk, sorry.

 

[Lost Bushman]

No, your explanation legitimizes it even more. It is a weak trans. YOu got stuck and tried to get yourself out, you broke it then. It's slam dunk, sorry.

Wow. Ok, so what kind of options do I have here? I can go pull a A4LDs' from the yard all day long, but if they're inherently inferior, am I wasting my time? Is there a substitute transmission that is a better model that plugs right in?

Mind you, I'm relatively new to Fords. I've owned a boatload of Jeeps, but this is my first Ford, so I'm on the learning curve.

 

[PetesPonies]

There are no other choices for an OD transmission. A few people install a C4/C5, which is a tough trans, but only a 3 speed. The C5 was used in the 84/85 trucks and can be put behind a 2.9 you find the right pieces from a donor .. but not easy to find. When I went with a V8 in my 84, I had left over pieces for swapping a C4/C5 and had lot of people wanting to buy them. You best bet is getting an A4LD built. There are some improvements that can be done during rebuild if you find a good place to do it. As with most trans repairs, it's all about the person doing the job.

 

[Lost Bushman]

Ok, well I guess I'll start shopping around for a good trans man.

I'd still like to know 100% that it's smoked, is there anyway to confirm before I go through the trouble of pulling? I should've mentioned that the fluid is freshly changed and still red with a slight burnt smell.

 

[wildbill23c]

My grandfather's 93 ford ranger's a4ld tranny was bad when we got it home, my uncle just parked it because he got tired of dealing with it. Rebuilt transmission and it ran good for another 13 months, then all of a sudden it lost forward gears again, sold the truck for parts for $700 was not about to waste another $2k on a POS transmission.

I would look at a different transmission period, or you'll keep having the same failures. These transmissions were trash, and Ford wouldn't step up and do something about it.

 

[Lost Bushman]

Damn.

Should I have stuck with Jeeps?

Seriously though, I'm at standstill because I bought the Bronco to take on camping trips and do some light to medium wheeling, I don't need something that's going to dive out on me miles from home. I'm not big on modifying things too much.

 

[Dugan]

IIRC test is done with foot on brake and other foot on gas. Without spinning or moving, the revs you get are your converter stall speed which shouldn't be over ~2000 for a stock converter. If you've mixed and matched converters you can get a higher stall, such as putting in a 9" converter in place of an 11". Another possibility is as PetesPonies has suggested....problems with your trans.
Remember that I'm not a trans guru or a mechanic, I've been wrong before and will again....just saying.

Richard

Your on the right track, but that will not show stall. To get the stall you hold your foot on brake and get the rpms right before the vehicle starts to move, Then hammer on it. What ever the rpms jump to that instant is your stall speed. Do not do this for more then 5 seconds, else youll blow that trans to pieces