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Seeking knowledge- dual axis camber caster bushings.


Cam10

Active Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
43
City
Ponoka, Alberta, Canada
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Manual
So I just recently got myself a new set of dual axis camber/ caster bushings from napa, and the instruction sheet is lacking a few key points. Is there anyone around that's has worked with them before? :icon_confused:
 
Are those the same thing as the normal camber/caster bushings? (Far as I can tell yes)


You undo the pinch bolt at the upper ball joint, knock the old slug out, and pound the new one in. Spin it around until the tire looks like it is sitting flat on the ground.

You will need a real alignment with an alignment machine, but that will get you close enough to drive.


All they really do is swing the top of the upper ball joint around in the hole to adjust the angle the wheel and knuckle is held at.
 
the dual adjustable ones have 2 eccentrics, one inside the other. the benefit is that you can set the camber how you want it and still adjust the camber. on the single piece ones, adjusting the camber changes the caster. once you get the camber where you want it, there's only 2 places the caster can be.

what info are you looking for? you need to have a fixed position bushing in place and take a reading of the camber. there should be a chart with the bushing that tells you how to put the bushing to get the reading your looking for. i know its kinda vague but without having stuff in front of me, its kinda hard to explain.

oh and if you're crafty, you can use an angle finder on the face of your wheel and align things yourself. it takes quite a bit of reading to get a decent understanding of things. if you doubt your ability, just pay to have it done. much cheaper than chewing up tires.
 
I try to use 2-piece bushings exclusively.
For the most part, the charts they use are universal across brands, however the Spicer (Raybestos) ones (gold color) have a different character coding ("N" is minimum offset where the others have "A" as minimum), but otherwise they work the same (not sure where Napa sources theirs from).

For the Ingalls, Specialty-Products, Pro Comp, Moog bushings, (silver/zinc color) this link should help:
http://www.ingallseng.com/Instructions/59400.pdf
If you're 2WD, use the 1st chart (page 1). For 4WD, 2nd page top chart.


Also see this page for some tips if you're DIY'ing it and don't have the uber-expensive alignment rack (scroll down about halfway):
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm

Hope that helps
 
So I just recently got myself a new set of dual axis camber/ caster bushings from napa, and the instruction sheet is lacking a few key points. Is there anyone around that's has worked with them before? :icon_confused:

I know what you're talking about.....the chart can really be confusing.

SHORT VERSION:(READ THE DIRECTIONS UNTIL THEY MAKE SENSE....THEY'RE NOT WRITTEN VERY WELL!)

(I also have a couple pages in my thread build with pics of how I did mine when I installed the drop-beams)

1.Start with the wheel that has the least wear on the tire (the tire that isn't worn badly from being out of adjustment.
2. Park the truck on the most level area if possible to do the work.
(Be sure NOT to back up any because this will slightly change how the wheels sit on the ground.
3.Like they said....if you have an angle gauge (from Home Depot/etc)....take a reading on the flat part of the wheel & write it down so you'll be able to turn the eccentric NAPA bushing until you get the same reading.
4. Then use the instruction chart to see if your close to the pair of corresponding letters on the chart. (fOR EXAMPLE: if your old bushing was stamped 2* (2 degrees)....you use the right or left side of the chart for either the driver's side wheel or the passenger's side wheel---the chart is labeled)....you also choose the amount of caster that is recommended for your truck....that way you set the castor and camber at the same time by turning the inner & outer parts of the bushing until the correct letters line up according to the example on the instructions.
5. Then you torque down the bolt/nut & test drive the truck around the block a couple times to let the wheel/springs settle back into place.

THEN IF THE WHEEL LOOKS RIDICULOUS...LET AN aLIGNMENT SHOP DO THE JOB!

6.If the wheel looks reasonably straight....replace the other wheel bushing & use the other side of the chart to check how close you got it.

YEP...IT AIN'T EASY EXPLAINING HOW TO INSTALL AN ADJUSTABLE BUSHING!
(I had to tweak each wheel a couple times to get everything real close****TEST DRIVE THE TRUCK AFTER EACH TWEAK...ONLY TWEAK ONE WHEEL AT A TIME UNTIL IT LOOKS GOOD*****)

532.p65
 
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the dual adjustable ones have 2 eccentrics, one inside the other. the benefit is that you can set the camber how you want it and still adjust the camber. on the single piece ones, adjusting the camber changes the caster. once you get the camber where you want it, there's only 2 places the caster can be.

Ok, never saw one of those before. Seems like they would be a little redundant in my world. All I care about with caster is that it is there and the right is a little farther to the positive to take up for road crown.
 
Sorry guys, been away for a While. So I just read 4x4 junkie's post and that link solved my question on aligning the letters on both the bushing and truck. So I will take a wack at it tonight and see how things go.
 
Anyways I thought yall' should know, I did get the front end of my ranger sorted out. I did figure out the instructions, but the set up never worked. So I gave up on that and went by eye. And sure enough I spotted my camber +/- a tenth of a degree within spec. Go figure. And toe was a chore too but it came with time. A couple hours later, on the rack, and she is good to go.
 
Cool, glad you got it sorted out.

First time long time ago it took me a couple tries also, but eventually it'll always come to you if you keep at it. :icon_thumby:

I pretty much just do it by eyeball now as well (camber).
 
I aligned my truck with a tape measure and eyeball and it drives perfectly straight with a straight steering wheel... I wish I had room for more caster (doesn't self center very well) but the extended radius arms I'll make this spring/summer will take care of that...
 

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