Need Help!

[killj0y]

So on the way to work my rear driver side brake line busted so I have no brakes. Well I have very little brakes and of course downshifting to get home in a few hours. Anyways it looks like it busted inside the rotor. Any tips on changing out whats broken before i get home, in case I can pick a few things up at the auto parts store since I won't be able to once I get the sob off?

I couldn't find any diy or how to-s, this will be my first time changing out a brake line, I'm not too worried except I'd hate to run into something hard to get off and I break it I know the drum will come off with some "persuasion" but whats the hookup type in the rotor? btw it is the rubber brake line inside the rotor...or something else I suppose.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

I need this rig up and running for Thursday since its going on a 4 hour road trip

 

[Psychopete]

When you say rotor, do you mean drum?

Is it really a bust line, or is the wheel cylinder leaking? No lines run inside of the drum, the line connects to the back of the wheel cylinder.

If the cylinder is leaking into the drum, time for a brake job. They're sold in pairs, so you'll probably be doing both sides.

 

[killj0y]

When you say rotor, do you mean drum?

Is it really a bust line, or is the wheel cylinder leaking? No lines run inside of the drum, the line connects to the back of the wheel cylinder.

If the cylinder is leaking into the drum, time for a brake job. They're sold in pairs, so you'll probably be doing both sides.

rofl yes i meant drum too early for this man sorry

Well it seems to be leaking from inside the drum, I'm at work so I can't see inside atm. Crap so you think it might be the cylinder? i was hoping it was just a line

 

[exbass94]

If the cylinder is leaking into the drum, time for a brake job. They're sold in pairs, so you'll probably be doing both sides.

Wheel cylinders are NOT sold in pairs. You buy them individually.

The driver side brake line may or may not have the odd-size fitting on one end, the end that connects to the "block" on the axle. If it does, you'll need to cut and flare the new line so you can put the weird fitting on. If it has a standard size fitting on both ends, you can buy a pre-flared section that already has fittings on it and just bend it to fit.

 

[Psychopete]

Wheel cylinders are NOT sold in pairs. You buy them individually.

Nope, they sure aren't. I was referring to brake shoes but forgot to include that. If the leak is inside of the drum, you need new shoes.

 

[killj0y]

Wheel cylinders are NOT sold in pairs. You buy them individually.

The driver side brake line may or may not have the odd-size fitting on one end, the end that connects to the "block" on the axle. If it does, you'll need to cut and flare the new line so you can put the weird fitting on. If it has a standard size fitting on both ends, you can buy a pre-flared section that already has fittings on it and just bend it to fit.

crap, well the cylinder looks like its 15 bucks so no biggie. if its the cylinder i can't just reuse the same lines?

Nope, they sure aren't. I was referring to brake shoes but forgot to include that. If the leak is inside of the drum, you need new shoes.

Crap that sucks...i'm so broke i don't need this right now brake line/cylinder is bad enough i probably can't afford the shoes damn...makes sense though.

 

[killj0y]

well 23 isn't too bad for shoes but I really don't want to change out both...

 

[exbass94]

Replacing a wheel cylinder isn't too bad. Remove BOTH drums but only disassemble ONE side. Take the shoes off, remove brake line from cylinder and unbolt the cylinder. Install new cylinder, install new shoes (you should use new hardware too). If you forget how things go together, (and there WILL be several things you forget if you've never done this before) look at the other side for reference. DO NOT disassemble the other side until the first side is 100% reassembled and ready to go. Bleed the brakes and adjust the shoes, and you're done.

 

[exbass94]

crap, well the cylinder looks like its 15 bucks so no biggie. if its the cylinder i can't just reuse the same lines?

You can reuse the line, unless you booger it up removing it from the cylinder. You said it was a line at first, so I was telling you how to change a line.

 

[exbass94]

Oh, and when you're at the parts store, they're gonna ask if you have 9" brakes or 10" brakes. There's a 99% chance you have 9" brakes, but I would check this thread to make sure:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85861

 

[killj0y]

Replacing a wheel cylinder isn't too bad. Remove BOTH drums but only disassemble ONE side. Take the shoes off, remove brake line from cylinder and unbolt the cylinder. Install new cylinder, install new shoes (you should use new hardware too). If you forget how things go together, (and there WILL be several things you forget if you've never done this before) look at the other side for reference. DO NOT disassemble the other side until the first side is 100% reassembled and ready to go. Bleed the brakes and adjust the shoes, and you're done.

At this point it sounds like a busted cylinder would be the better of the two lol. Yea I'll take pics too, and I have several diagrams both from a forum now and i have alldata so its on there too. So assuming its the cylinder get a new one, shoes, and hardware to mount said shoes correct? and be careful witht he line if it isn't messed up got it.

You can reuse the line, unless you booger it up removing it from the cylinder. You said it was a line at first, so I was telling you how to change a line.

i got you, nice oh face btw

 

[killj0y]

Oh, and when you're at the parts store, they're gonna ask if you have 9" brakes or 10" brakes. There's a 99% chance you have 9" brakes, but I would check this thread to make sure:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85861

yea i've heard about that already, i was just gonna measure the drum but i'll check out that thread too thanks!

 

[PanamaExpat]

Gee... In my day we would have simply kitted the wheel cylinder. Somewhere I think I still have a set of wheel cylinder hones for the drill. Watch out for the line connector being corroded into the old cylinder. Helps to have your handy acetylene torch around to warm things up with so you can get them loose. Also be aware that many times once you get the fitting loose from the wheel cylinder the brake line itself will be stuck to the fitting. Be gentle or you will end up either putting on a new end or a new line.

 

[killj0y]

should i get the self adjusting kit or all in one kit? hmm or do i need both?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...n8lZ8kolj?itemIdentifier=267651_0_0_4231,6723

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../N-j5n8lZ8kolh?itemIdentifier=268301_0_0_6723

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...8lZ8knp8?itemIdentifier=19836_29834_3559_6754

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...n8lZ8ko2c?itemIdentifier=106645_180169_11040_

 

[killj0y]

Gee... In my day we would have simply kitted the wheel cylinder. Somewhere I think I still have a set of wheel cylinder hones for the drill. Watch out for the line connector being corroded into the old cylinder. Helps to have your handy acetylene torch around to warm things up with so you can get them loose. Also be aware that many times once you get the fitting loose from the wheel cylinder the brake line itself will be stuck to the fitting. Be gentle or you will end up either putting on a new end or a new line.

well the cylinder is 12 bucks, so i'm assuming the cost of a hone plus whatever else i need would exceed that baseline so it seems easier and faster to replace rather than repair. I can still keep the busted one and rebuild it. Then i'll keep it in my toolbox since the other isn't likely far behind