Exp rear end swap

[wr250rdr]

So I have a nice 8.8 ls disk break rear end sitting in the garage at home that I am thinking of swapping into my ranger. I have herd that they are the same mount to mount but that the tubes are longer. Has anyone done this swap and ran into this issue? Also is the difference something that can be made up with offset on wheels and possibly rolling the fenders or will I need to have the tubes shortened? The truck is a 94 2wd. Also any other tips you guys would care to throw at me about this swap are welcome. I plan to do use 4inch droop beams in the front to make up for the drop in the rear with the swap.

 

[adsm08]

Your springs aren't set up right for an AOS suspension. If you are not trying to lower the truck I suggest getting the perches flipped and shock mounts added. You are also likely to run into clearance issues if you try to run AOS.

As for the difference in width, it is insignificant. I just put this axle in my truck and the rear wheels which used to sit inside the fenders about an inch now sit just barely inside the fenders. They don't stick out far enough to cause any heart burn or other related issues.

The other thing to keep in mind is that the axle tubes are wider around. Your existing U-bolts and plates will not work. I used the parts for a 2006 FX4 Level II Ranger.

 

[88_Eddie]

^
all that

for u-bolts, the cheapest ones i found were at my local 4 wheel parts. ~$28 for all 4 of them. then i used the spring plates from an explorer, i just cut them down. i've also heard of folks just drilling out the existing spring plates

 

[adsm08]

^
all that

for u-bolts, the cheapest ones i found were at my local 4 wheel parts. ~$28 for all 4 of them. then i used the spring plates from an explorer, i just cut them down. i've also heard of folks just drilling out the existing spring plates

I think I paid $35 plus tax for OEM u-bolts, plates, and nuts. I was surprised at how cheap they were.

The stock plates can be drilled out, there will be enough tension on the bolts that it won't let anything flop around, but it is just a pain to do.

 

[wr250rdr]

I have already swapped in exp springs when I had a busted spring so I believe I am set up for AOS. I have also herd that I would need to have shock mounts welded to the tubes correct?

 

[adsm08]

Well, Explorer springs is kinda game changing. They should have your rear sitting high already though, making the drop brackets putting the front end lower, unless you want the rake.

The center pin will have to be flipped back over. I'd think it would work after that, but I haven't tried, so I don't know for sure.

 

[88_Eddie]

I think I paid $35 plus tax for OEM u-bolts, plates, and nuts. I was surprised at how cheap they were.

The stock plates can be drilled out, there will be enough tension on the bolts that it won't let anything flop around, but it is just a pain to do.

i've made a habit of never checking my local dealership. they take forever when you call and they're all out of the way. i do need some f250 shock towers though

 

[JoshT]

Off topic here feel free to skip this:

Guys, I'd like to take this opportunity to remind you which forum this is:

Mini-Truck Suspension All you lowriders step inside and post up.

I'd also like to point out the OPs last sentence:

I plan to do use 4inch droop beams in the front to make up for the drop in the rear with the swap.

Based on the forum and the fact that he is planning to buy "4inch droop beams" (more on this later) one should probably figure that the OP is lowering the truck. Not saying that y'all had the wrong answer in general, but it was the wrong answer for this forum. That is unless OP says he doesn't want to lower in which case this thread should really have been posted in the "2WD Suspensions" or "Ranger Axles" forum.

Back on Topic:

Yes the spring perches are the same width, but as pointed out above the axle is set-up for AOS instead of SOA. This set-up will net you a 4-5 inch drop with stock springs, though I'm assuming you already knew this and wanted it since you mention drop beams.

The axle is about 1" wider overall than you current axle, about 1/2" wider per side. This added width can pretty easily be made up for by wheels, and you might get you wheels and tires on there and find that you need to change nothing. I'm also pretty sure that with that axle width a set of mustang wheels (at least up to 04, not sure when wheel specs changed) would fit like they were made for it.

If staying AOS two driver side Explorer spring plates will fix the shock mount issue. Having DS plate on both sides will pretty well align the shock mounts on the plate with the upper shock mounts on the frame. Many people have run them this way for years. Without the spring plates you will have to have shock mount tabs welded to the axle. Also if you want to weld shock mounts to the axle instead of using the spring plate, you can cut the shock mount off of the Explorer plates as adsm mentioned.

Explorer springs are good for about a 2" lift over stock Ranger springs. This I based on the fact that I installed Explorer springs on my 99, and removed the 2" factory lift block and stayed at the same height. 4-5" drop from axle flip - 2" lift from explorer springs = 2-3" drop from stock. As adsm mentioned if you flipped the center pin when you installed the springs, don't forget to flip them back.

Last but certainly not least. What are "4inch droop beams"? I can only assume that you are referring to drop I-beams. The only manufacturers I'm aware of making drop I-beams in the last decade were of the 3" variety, which should be about perfect for you if you want to keep it at stock rake but lower.

 

[JoshT]

Well, Explorer springs is kinda game changing. They should have your rear sitting high already though, making the drop brackets putting the front end lower, unless you want the rake.

The center pin will have to be flipped back over. I'd think it would work after that, but I haven't tried, so I don't know for sure.

What drop brackets are you referring to here?

Sounds like his current set-up in the rear is as follows:

94 Ranger 7.5" axle (currently SOA)
Explorer Leaf springs

That should give him a 2" lift from stock. The front is currently at stock height, so he should have an excessive rake if nothing else has been done to the truck.

Sounds to me like he wants to install an Explorer axle in stock form, AOS, which will give him a 4-5" drop from current height, or a 2-3" drop from stock height. The he plans to install drop I-beams which are good for 3" in the front. That combo would give him about a 3/3 drop from stock.

There are a lot of other options as well with his current springs and the explorer axle to do anything from level his truck with the stock beams (which is about a 0/2 from stock), to leveling his truck with the drop beams (about a 3/5 from stock). You can even go lower but by that time you are better off going back to Ranger springs.

 

[wr250rdr]

The exp springs actually didn't result in much lift. My rear fender arches are about 3/4 of an inch higher. So I think I got a well used set. But can't complain for 40 buck right? Also the spring plates... Anyone got a picture of them
Or a rough description. I'm not sure I grabbed them and once I start I'm without a vehicle. Also will I need a different per portioning valve with the disks in the back or should the stock be fine? And finally will my 7.5 ebrake cable(s) work or will I need the ones from the exp?

 

[adsm08]

What drop brackets are you referring to here?

Sounds like his current set-up in the rear is as follows:

94 Ranger 7.5" axle (currently SOA)
Explorer Leaf springs

That should give him a 2" lift from stock. The front is currently at stock height, so he should have an excessive rake if nothing else has been done to the truck.

Sounds to me like he wants to install an Explorer axle in stock form, AOS, which will give him a 4-5" drop from current height, or a 2-3" drop from stock height. The he plans to install drop I-beams which are good for 3" in the front. That combo would give him about a 3/3 drop from stock.

There are a lot of other options as well with his current springs and the explorer axle to do anything from level his truck with the stock beams (which is about a 0/2 from stock), to leveling his truck with the drop beams (about a 3/5 from stock). You can even go lower but by that time you are better off going back to Ranger springs.

I agree with your assessment there. He was the one who brought up dropping the front, I believe to level the truck since forward rake is cool, backwards rake is retarded.

The exp springs actually didn't result in much lift. My rear fender arches are about 3/4 of an inch higher. So I think I got a well used set. But can't complain for 40 buck right? Also the spring plates... Anyone got a picture of them
Or a rough description. I'm not sure I grabbed them and once I start I'm without a vehicle. Also will I need a different per portioning valve with the disks in the back or should the stock be fine? And finally will my 7.5 ebrake cable(s) work or will I need the ones from the exp?

I swapped out the master cylinder for one from an Explorer of the same year as my axle donor. Some line adapters were required, but were readily available at NAPA.

You will need the parking brake cables from the disc axle. They attach to the actuators differently. On your truck they should hook into the front cable without too much trouble. I am still trying to figure mine out, but I might have found what I need today.

 

[JoshT]

I agree with your assessment there. He was the one who brought up dropping the front, I believe to level the truck since forward rake is cool, backwards rake is retarded.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by forward rake and backwards rake. The kind of rake I'm familiar with is nose down, ass up. I don't consider the opposite to be rake. I'm still trying to figure out what drop brackets you were referring to, unless you were meaning drop beams.


wr250rdr, if the springs only gave you a .75" lift, then you might end up pretty close to level with the Explorer axle and drop beams. IIRC that is usually about a 3/5 drop. Sounds like you got 2 door Explorer leafs, I forgot about them being different. Both of my Explorer leaf packs are 4 door and that's probably where the additional height came from.

As for brakes. A lot of people have installed the Explorer axle & brakes without changing anything else in the system and had absolutely no problems. Like adsm I will be using the Explorer master cylinder, mostly because the one on my Ranger is bad and I have the complete Explorer. I plan to swap in the complete brake system from my donor Explorer, to include ABS if I can make it work. The parking brake cables is one area I still have to work on figuring out, you definitely need explorer cables for the end that connects to the brake.

This is an Explorer spring plate. Ignore that note, I stole the pic from a heep site.

 

[adsm08]

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by forward rake and backwards rake. The kind of rake I'm familiar with is nose down, ass up. I don't consider the opposite to be rake. I'm still trying to figure out what drop brackets you were referring to, unless you were meaning drop beams.

Rake is rake, all it means is that one end sits higher than the other. It's just a question of positive (forward, rear sits higher) or negative (backwards, front sits higher).

And yes, I did mean drop beams. I kept saying bracket because I'm stuck in a lift mindset since I consider lowering a truck is one of the most useless things you can do.

 

[JoshT]

Rake is rake, all it means is that one end sits higher than the other. It's just a question of positive (forward, rear sits higher) or negative (backwards, front sits higher).

Yeah I don't think of negative or backwards rake as rake. To me it just looks stupid, kinda like the guys walking around with their pants around their knees and 5 pairs of boxers showing.

And yes, I did mean drop beams. I kept saying bracket because I'm stuck in a lift mindset since I consider lowering a truck is one of the most useless things you can do.

Ok, those replies make a lot more sense now.

 

[wr250rdr]

Adsm: it's hard to get a lifted ranger to corner which is what my end game is. With about 200k on my odometer I don't think it will be long before my 2.3 needs a rebuild. When it needs it it's getting a 2.5 stroker crank and poked out a bit and possibly a turbo if I can get it to where I can unbolt the exhaust and turbo and the electrics and plug back to factory and pass smog.

So lowering it and adding bracing and in the bed and a ls and disks under it and some big sway bars should let me have a good power and handling combo .

What is the gearing available in the 8.8 from the factory? I have seen 373s and 410s are these the only factory options? I'm thinking for my end goal of performance the 410s are the way to go right?