PlumCrazy's Build

[PlumCrazy]

Shafts are done. I extended the front just over 6 inches and knocked 6 off the rear.

I modified the trans crossmember to clear the front shaft.

I also made a mount to bolt on the rear case where the dampener used to be.

It will bolt up to the tab a added to the crossmember with a rubber mount of some sort.

I made the doubler shifter, but I forgot to bring home the t case shifter for the rear case.

High

Low

Id say it was a successful weekend.lol

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[sloth69mustang]

i def want to build one of these doublers. 4.56 on 31 is a nice slow speed but when i go to 35s i want to remain slow. so def hold onto that old plate bc i will probably want to get one from you.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Ill be sure to not toss it.

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[PlumCrazy]

Used my buddy's old stick welder to move the tab for my t case shifter. Not too shabby considering I haven't stick welded in two years.lol

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[Destroyer000]

ive got the SAME spool for the front of my d44. i bought new shafts from bronco grave yard cost me around 300 with spicer 760 joints. shafts are actually made by Yukon. they have an upgraded shaft as well with a full lifetime warranty.. might be something to consider.. i tried mine out last weekend and it works great.. only issue i had was i hand to grind 1/4 of an inch off the driver inner shaft so the hub would "click" into free mode if not it locked it self going down the road.

 

[PlumCrazy]

ive got the SAME spool for the front of my d44. i bought new shafts from bronco grave yard cost me around 300 with spicer 760 joints. shafts are actually made by Yukon. they have an upgraded shaft as well with a full lifetime warranty.. might be something to consider.. i tried mine out last weekend and it works great.. only issue i had was i hand to grind 1/4 of an inch off the driver inner shaft so the hub would "click" into free mode if not it locked it self going down the road.

Those are the shafts I was planning on ordering. Just have to come up with some coin.lol

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[PlumCrazy]

Got the shifter fir the rear case mocked up. I am using thick walled 3/8" tubing for linkage, it has the perfect ID for running a 5/16-24 tap into for rodends. Its harder to bend than 1/2 mild steel rod, so it will work awesome. I'm still waiting on my lh thread 5/16 rod end and tap though, so I used cheap 1/4 " end I had laying around to test the setup. It works perfect. Its no harder to shift then stock, and it lines up in all the factory positions at each detent. I am going to make a new arm on the t case with an offset to eliminate the spacer and long bolt I used for mock up.
2 hi

4 hi

4 low

I also got my new meats mounted up.

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[PlumCrazy]

Once I button up the shifters I can get this beast in the truck. I still need to do all the joints in the front shaft since the front joint was toast and the cardian joints have dried up cracked seals. I also need to come up with new skid plate to protect the rear case. The case sits flush with the bottom of the frame rails already.

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[PlumCrazy]

Still waiting for my last rodend for the tcase linkage, but I went ahead and bolted the crawl box in.

The shafts fit perfect with plenty of slip yoke engagement and travel.

The cross member notch worked out perfect.

Tight fit.lol but it wont hit.

Doubler shifter is in.

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Low

I need to find some sort of rubber bushing to throw in between the tcase mount and the tab I added on the rear crossmember.

Doing ujoints in the front shaft tonight. They are original and don't look too fun.lol
I need to find a t case shift light switch and run the wire to my cluster, and then its time for fluid and test drive.

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[036speed]

Looking awesome! I want

 

[PlumCrazy]

Looking awesome! I want

I want it done too.lol

You wouldn't happen to have an extra tcase sensor floating around would you?
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[PlumCrazy]

Did the front joints.

They wouldn't budge last night, I let em soak in on blaster over night and they came right out today.

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[PlumCrazy]

BTW, Moog ujoints are legit. They are like what the Brute force joints used to be before they lightened them up.

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[PlumCrazy]

Rodend showed up for the linkage.

Linkage is in, fluid is in, mount is completed, indicator light is functional everything but one front ujoint is done.

I used a bump stop to make the rear mount. It hardly supports weight and is only attached to the frame. This way the frame and driveline can move independently without stressing the extension housing. It will take the shock load it if I hit a bump so all the weight doesn't stress the trans extension housing too much.

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[PlumCrazy]

Test drove it today. Its sloow.lol. I can get out and have look while its creeping along at an idle. Might get a vid tom.

I have not driven this thing in a month. Man it feels like I'm at home again now that I have my 5 speed back.

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