My new (old) truck

[mrchaotica]

Last week I bought myself my first new (old) truck. I was looking for the smallest, most efficient, cheapest (to buy and to run) thing I could possibly find that was capable of hauling building materials home from Lowe's... and was also a 4x4 "just because."

Here's what I ended up with:

1996 Ford Ranger
regular cab
short bed
2.3L I-4
5-speed manual transmission
4x4 (mechanical transfer case, not electronic; manual locking hubs)
180K miles (but relatively new transmission)

The I-4-manual-4x4 combination was pretty damn hard to find around here, so I think I did good!

Stuff to be fixed includes:

• fuel gauge doesn't work (seller said to fill up every 350 miles to be safe)
• passenger door doesn't lock or unlock with the key
• transmission shifter is 'notchy' -- I'm hoping a flush and fill with good gear oil will help
• Split bench armrest is coming loose
• Headliner is coming unglued
• The heat/AC fan switch only works on speeds 3 and 4

Most urgently, the CEL is on, and I need to meet emissions to register the vehicle (apparently it was illegal for the seller to sell it without it meeting emissions, but that doesn't help me get a license plate for it). (I'll create a separate thread for that shortly -- edit: separate thread here)

I've got a couple of questions:

1. Is my engine (I think it's called a "Lima") an interference engine? The engine in my other car (a VW Beetle TDI) is very much one, so the advice always given in the TDIClub.com forum to folks buying cars with no service records is always "CHANGE THE TIMING BELT IMMEDIATELY OR ELSE!!!"
2. As far as I can tell the truck is running fine (aside from the CEL), but I'd like to give it a tune-up anyway to be sure. What do I need to do? Oil, oil filter, air filter, plugs, wires, anything else...?
3. Anybody ever swap a TDI engine into one of these? I'm sure the Lima engine has its virtues, but I can't figure out what they are...

 

[CheapRanger]

The 2.3l 4x4 is pretty hard to find anywhere.
DO NOT USE GEAR OIL IN THE TRANSMISSION. Check the tech library and other posts, use only ATM if this is the M50D like I think it is.

The Lima engine is a non interference engine. I know people think that means if the timing belt breaks it is fine, but I have seen a few that were highway speeds, or better when broke. Less likely to have damage, but not damage proof.
Start with the CEL, before doing a tune up. Did you get any maintenance records? Know when the last one was done?

 

[mrchaotica]

The 2.3l 4x4 is pretty hard to find anywhere.

That's what a mechanic who frequents the TDI forum says too.

DO NOT USE GEAR OIL IN THE TRANSMISSION. Check the tech library and other posts, use only ATM if this is the M50D like I think it is.

The same guy (who is well-respected -- over there, at least) said "the VAG G052 gear oil works wonders in that Mazda R5 gearbox... it is amazing." Not sure if an "R5" is the same as the "M5OD" -- but that reminds me of another question: if these trucks use Mazda transmissions, is there any chance that a 6-speed out of a Miata or RX-8 might bolt up?

By "ATM," do you mean I should use ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid)? Is there any particular type/brand that's best?

The Lima engine is a non interference engine. I know people think that means if the timing belt breaks it is fine, but I have seen a few that were highway speeds, or better when broke. Less likely to have damage, but not damage proof.

Good to know; thanks!

Start with the CEL, before doing a tune up. Did you get any maintenance records? Know when the last one was done?

The oil, power steering fluid and coolant don't look old and nasty, and the previous owner said that it's been "a few years" since the plugs were done and 15K for the wires. The air filter was moderately dirty; I've already changed it.

 

[hockeyryan]

i always do the nice easy stuff first.
fuel filter, oil change, plugs, wires, air filter and etc

 

[CheapRanger]

ATF as ATM was a typo.

I am wondering if when he said gearbox, his is referring to the 4x4 stuff and not the transmission?

 

[mrchaotica]

I've relayed your question to the TDI forum guy; waiting on his response (I'm anticipating that he's wrong/mistaken, especially since you aren't the only post here I've seen recommending ATF.)

Is there a good shop manual I can get for this truck? For VWs you can get one from the same company that writes the documentation for VW certified technicians, which is much better than Haynes or Chilton; is there an equivalent for Ford Rangers?

If Haynes and Chilton are all that are available, which one is better?

 

[Mark_88]

Welcome to TRS...

Good find...check the frame and underside over for rust...it is the biggest issue with any vehicle if you haven't already done so...makes your investment worth while...


Can't add to what has already been said other than the 2.3 will probably be the best engine for that truck...unless you want to spend more money on mods and upgrades...which kind of defeats your initial mention of "cheapest"...it can be a long expensive road to the ultimate Ranger...be happy with what you have...or be prepared to spend $$$$$$$$$...enjoy!

 

[mrchaotica]

Good find...check the frame and underside over for rust...it is the biggest issue with any vehicle if you haven't already done so...makes your investment worth while...

I haven't noticed much (if any) rust on the cab (exterior, interior, or underside), except for a little spot on the driver's door at the corner of the window.

The frame and other structural bits have some surface rust, but it doesn't look too bad (I think). Maybe I should post pics, just to be sure...

Can't add to what has already been said other than the 2.3 will probably be the best engine for that truck...unless you want to spend more money on mods and upgrades...which kind of defeats your initial mention of "cheapest"...

Now that I've had a little bit more experience with the truck, I've learned that the power is adequate; I just have to get used to winding it out instead of driving it like my Diesel.

Any kind of upgrade or swap would only happen if/when the original part completely wears out or fails catastrophically. Apparently somebody on TDI Club has indeed swapped a TDI into a Ranger, by the way...

Here's what the mechanic from TDIClub replied regarding ATF in the manual transmission:

Gearbox in my post means manual transmission. ATF is what kills those Mazda R5 units, very common. Ford wanted to squeeze every bit of MPGs out of these as they could, so they used thin ATF in them. If you want them to survive, you need something tougher. If you want to be able to shift them easily in the cold, you need a synthetic gear oil. VAG's G060 works excellent in these. I've towed trailers all over the place in my 4.9L F150 with the same transmission, never had any issues. ATF is fine for super, super light duty use... but even then it cannot stand much. Ever ask yourself why the truck had a trans replacement in the first place? Ever wonder why so many R5 Ford trucks had trans replacements, yet Mazda B-trucks (1993 and older) didn't? Mazda spec'd gear oil in the same basic gearbox. Mazda was not trying to squeeze one more MPG out.

"M5OD": Mazda 5 speed over drive "R1": light duty. The R2 unit was the medium duty version, in the F150s, T-bird Super Coupe used the R2, everything else used the R1. There is a tougher version of the R1 that was bolted behind the 4.0L V6 in the later Rangers. But given the fact that the bellhouse is integral with the case, and they all use different bolt patterns, you cannot bolt an R1HD or an R2 on to the 2.3L engine.

Before these, Ford used a Mitsubishi sourced manual gearbox in the Rangers (my dad's '84 2.3L Ranger has one of those) unless it was powered by the Mazda diesel engine, in which case it used a Toyo Kogyo gearbox.

Y'all's thoughts?

 

[IAmTodd]

Y'all's thoughts?

I'm new to the M5OD but my understanding is they leak fluid out of the 3 holes on the shifter plate, just aft the shifter. You only have so much fluid, if you pump it dry, it locks up. Check those 3 holes, either silicon them up or put in hard plugs to prevent the leaking and make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level.

 

[Mark_88]

I have the M5OD (original) with 414,000 Km on it and have only ever used ATF in it...with the exception of a bottle of TransMedic about five years ago...When I pulled the motor/tranny out of the original Ranger it tipped the tranny and the fluid ran out the end...it sat for a few years with a bit of fluid in it until recently when I drained it and topped it up with ATF again.

I'd been meaning to add a bit of Lucas Oil stabilizer to it recently but haven't done that yet...and my tranny has been put to a bit of heavy hauling over the last year or so without any hard shifting...