Anyone use these for rear frame repairs?

[Aureus1]

Hey everyone. Did a quick search but couldn't find much info.

Has anybody used these to repair the frame behind the rear axle?
http://rangerframefix.com/theparts.html

I was getting yanked out of a puddle last weekend and tore off my trailer hitch and split the rear frame in half the long way on both sides... wasn't good.

Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks!

- Joe

 

[Aureus1]

Well considering that they are bolt in I'll probably give em a shot and see how they hold up.

 

[Centma]

I had trouble getting any response from the rangerframefix guys. I ended up getting the Safe-T-Cap frame pieces for my long bed. It worked very well, I welded the front edge but just used the hangar bolts and bumper bolts to secure the rear. I did both sides.

 

[Aureus1]

I checked out the Safe-T-Cap website but they didn't have anything for a 94...

 

[--weezl--]

if you're planning on going wheeling with your truck again, i would not even think about that link you posted, the steel on the top 2 are slightly thinner than the ranger frame, and the 3rd is significantly thinner... if you had issues with the strength of the frame that came with the truck, thinner metal is not going to make it better, if you ripped the bolts out?

honestly (and this comes from someone who worked at a semi truck frame welding company) cut out the damaged section, and weld in a new section of mild steel, i would do 1/8" at the ABSOLUTE thinnest (this is roughly stock thickness, IIRC) i can't think of the name of it, but basically there is varrying thickness c-channel, where the sides are thinner than the main part, if the sides were 1/8" and the middle piece was say, 3/16 or so, it's going to be much stronger than stock, and work better for what you're doing

 

[straycat]

if you're planning on going wheeling with your truck again, i would not even think about that link you posted, the steel on the top 2 are slightly thinner than the ranger frame, and the 3rd is significantly thinner... if you had issues with the strength of the frame that came with the truck, thinner metal is not going to make it better, if you ripped the bolts out?

honestly (and this comes from someone who worked at a semi truck frame welding company) cut out the damaged section, and weld in a new section of mild steel, i would do 1/8" at the ABSOLUTE thinnest (this is roughly stock thickness, IIRC) i can't think of the name of it, but basically there is varrying thickness c-channel, where the sides are thinner than the main part, if the sides were 1/8" and the middle piece was say, 3/16 or so, it's going to be much stronger than stock, and work better for what you're doing

^^^What he said +10. Safety is the most important factor when you are doing anything with your frame. Cut and weld that damaged area and make it right the first time.

 

[Centma]

Ranger frames are reportedly 11 gauge. My pieces were the same size as the frame. I used the pieces like gussets rather than replacement, cantilevered from the better frame forward to provide improved structure aft...so there is both original frame and new outer support. Only one side of my old frame had perforation, and only at the very rear. No longitudinal splits, no cracks. As an engineer, I'm satisfied that in my case it's stronger than the original for my application. As Rangers go, mine was in "good" shape.

I just wanted to provide some photos of how that frame repair technology works. Its not a solution for all cases and all vehicle usage. The vendor photos tend to make the pieces look really thin, much thinner than the original frame. I didn't do it, but I'd suggest anybody with more serious trouble call the guys at Safe-T-Cap and go visit their main business in the shop in Rhode Island...and ask specific structural questions.

 

[Aureus1]

Thanks for the help guys. It looks like I may have to take a step back reevaluate how I am going to tackle this repair.

 

[--weezl--]

The other thing I forgot to mention was that if you do what's called fishplating, which is where you put a piece around another piece (like fish scales) that space between the steel is an opportunity for moisture to build up, and create rust... Because of the small gap, once moisture gets in, (which it will) it will NOT get out


Sent from somewhere naughty!

 

[ZMan]

Thats interesting. We fixed a Ranger a few weeks ago at work. It got rearend, but the frame was so rusted the bumper just fell off. We got a section from LKQ (junkyard) and spliced it in.

the new section trimmed and ready..

 

[shane96ranger]

Thats interesting. We fixed a Ranger a few weeks ago at work. It got rearend, but the frame was so rusted the bumper just fell off. We got a section from LKQ (junkyard) and spliced it in.

the new section trimmed and ready..

That's the way pimps do it right there.

Looks good ZMan.

EDIT: That guy was lucky he didn't lose a leaf hanger!