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daily doubler build


Cool.

I really like the Ox lockers. Have you looked into them?

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I'm not sure how its put together such that it will allow you to install the c-clips, but just an idea, replace the springs with solid shims. Voila, c-clip compatible spool.

It has a larger crosspin, you slide the shafts in and install the clips then push them both out and install the crosspin with no spring required.

I found I had to pull the right side bearing cap to get the crosspin bolt out to pull shafts.... not ideal, but I didn't want to be taking any material out of the bearing caps.
 
It has a larger crosspin, you slide the shafts in and install the clips then push them both out and install the crosspin with no spring required.

I found I had to pull the right side bearing cap to get the crosspin bolt out to pull shafts.... not ideal, but I didn't want to be taking any material out of the bearing caps.

I see. So its like a typical c-clip carrier in that the crosspin keeps the shafts out so the clips stay in place.

From what I've read I'm not a fan of the OX. The cable isn't easily fixed on the trail, the cable can stretch or come out of adjustment making the locker engagement screw up, etc.

I like the idea of a mechanical locker, but from what I've read, it doesn't work too well in practice.

Maybe it deserves a little more research. I've definitely read a lot more on ARB and ELockers than I have the OX.
 
I had a talk with a guy that worked at Randy's R&P about the OX a while back. He said they are mainly for rock crawlers (IE buggies) that see very little drive time. They are not for the weekend wheeler or the DD as they need constant adjustment, and also take some getting use to engaging and disengaging...I would not suggest going with the OX, I'd do a detroit or a spool before an OX...
SVT
 
Oh. Didn't know anything about them besides being cable driven and cost a lot.

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Detroit or the new Yukon Grizzly locker. I hear that the Grizzly is not susceptible to being fawkerd by a shaft breaking.
 
ANd it is less money


I considered buying one for my front 60.


Bray, I would just weld it for now, since you plan on replacing the carrier anyway(and it is free). It would allow you to get used to the fully locked feel then help you choose. I have an open carrier I will give you if you hate it and then you can get a lunchbox locker if you want. I will even pay to ship it to you.
 
... new Yukon Grizzly locker. I hear that the Grizzly is not susceptible to being fawkerd by a shaft breaking.


That would be the way I would go, but they don't have an 8.8 application yet.

Bray, you're worse than my wife at making up your mind on this :thefinger:
 
Kyle - i'll take you up on that deal. Is there a break in the carriers for the ratios? I've got 4.56's. My axle originally came with 4.10's so I was pretty sure it was good for the 4.56's. I'll pay shipping fool. :MrT:

Svt - thats the jist of what i had heard. Comes out of adjustment a lot.

Kage- i'm seriously indecisive on a lot of things, especially when its close to a thousand bucks and will have a big effect on the performance of my truck. Its a disease. Haha
 
Just take it as a vote of the people on here that play the hardest... Detroit is the way to go. :icon_thumby:



































...and you'll be swapping axles for 1 tons in a year anyways.... :thefinger:
 
The guys that play the hardest on here aren't putting on 400 road miles a week. (except for me) :thefinger:
 
I put over 80,000k on mine in the time it had a rear detroit on 35's and on 37's. If you got on/off/on the throttle quick it occasionally unloaded with a bang but other then that it was great. Reliable traction and predictable handling, never had to remember to hit a switch or worry about it engaging etc.
 
Yep. I'm thinking hard about 37's in the spring. If I do that, I'd like to regear to 5.13. I'm thinking run the welded carrier, 4.56, 35's for a while to see what it's like, then when I decide its awesome, buy the 4.88+ detroit and 5.13's. Slap some 37's on in the spring and be good to go. The Detroit and gears would probably be cheaper than an ARB setup.
 
A welded rear handles nothing like a Detroit....way worse and if you drive it on the street as much as you say you do you're not going to get much life outta them rear tires...
 
What Sasq said, also 8.8's have no carrier break so 3.55's will run on the same detroit as 5.13's
 

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