Clever idea

[97BlackBetty]

Yea the rust belt sure does suck. I cant wait till I get my grandpas Ranger to add to my collection and start working on that (read: lots o' rust). At least I take most parts out of my Ranger often enough to avoid most of the rust issues.

 

[odie1969]

or a socket on a breaker bar and put the truck in gear and let the motor break it lose. J/K
that how you have to break the crank bolt lose on the sho motor to replace the timing belt. Crazy

 

[JamesC]

.i see you are using good old Cambodian tire penatrating lube LOL.

Ha my grandpa was cleaning out his storage unit and gave me that can, I would guess its at least 20 years old, I think it aged like a good wine because I've never had penatrating oil work so well as this can.

 

[Mutant Pony]

Ingersol Rand 2135Ti impact gun

The impact works but, the socket you need is thin and breaks quite easily. I've bought all the different special sockets and broke them. I have used the wrench and hammer method as well.
Occasionally, I have had to use a little heat with the impact.

 

[gbadgley]

That's rust??? You ought to live in Syracuse, they don't call it the salt city for nothing!

 

[LearjetMinako]

That idea is one for the books. Never thought of using a car jack to apply torque on a wrench. Must be insane leverage.

 

[reno]

Do yourself a favor once you have the bolts out (and on any other nut&bolt), apply some Anti-seize compound on the threads and you will never have to do that again. I use A-Seize on Exhaust bolts,Lug nuts,just about any nut or bolt I remove,I put a dab of A-Seize on the threads.

 

[reginald fairfield]

Do yourself a favor once you have the bolts out (and on any other nut&bolt), apply some Anti-seize compound on the threads and you will never have to do that again. I use A-Seize on Exhaust bolts,Lug nuts,just about any nut or bolt I remove,I put a dab of A-Seize on the threads.

Anti Seize. Does that stuff make it possible for bolts to back out by themselves?

 

[97BlackBetty]

Anti Seize. Does that stuff make it possible for bolts to back out by themselves?

THey shouldnt if you have them torqued correctly. Some hardware I choose to use Anti-Seize and others I choose threadlocker. Ive had enough issues with brake hardware that I always put thread locker on it.

 

[reno]

Use your noggin on this, yes Brake Hardware Thread lock, I have never had an issue with Anti-Seize to this day. Exhaust manifold bolts are a priority with me and Ant-Seize, any steel being bolted into Aluminum like the water pump, water neck, will always get a dab of A-S. When you bust your knuckles enough times, you tend to grow tired of this. I have even put some on my Spark plugs. When I change head gaskets, I wire wheel clean the head bolts, then A dab of A-S when I replace.

The beauty of A-S is 10 years later, you can go back to that bolt and remove it like it was an hour ago that you bolted it.

 

[MAKG]

Anti-seize CAN be overdone, and I wouldn't want it on a high-stress component. Yes to the water pump, yes to the exhaust, absolutely yes to spark plugs, no to moving drivetrain parts (like the clutch or driveshaft). For drivetrain parts, I strongly suggest red threadlocker. This will also prevent rust on the threads, but it will need to be broken with heat when removing. Even mild heat will do; all you need is to melt the threadlocker (propane is just fine; though I haven't tried it, I'd suspect a heat gun would even be enough).

With lubrication on the threads, a given torque increases the clamping force. Anti-seize happens to be a surprisingly slippery lubricant, and you can sometimes increase the clamping force to the point of breaking the bolt or ripping threads out. The rule of thumb is to decrease torque by 30% when using anti-seize (source: De Anza College Auto Tech Dept.).

Now a VERY good use for anti-seize is lubricating bushings! It won't wash off.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I wouldn't use never seize on spark plugs in aluminum heads, you will want them babies to stay in there. It is fine if you have iron heads, but aluminum can be kinda picky, and when you only have three threads holding the plug in (like my 5.4) you don't really want it going anywhere or have any fudge factor on the torque spec to play with. They won't get rusted in there anyway so it isn't a big deal.

They do recomend to use it on the spark plug extensions on the newer three valve engines to keep carbon from building up and jamming it in the hole to the point that it breaks off when you replace the rest of the plug.

It is really neat stuff though, I use it quite a bit on my tractors.