Possibly a stupid question

[rusty ol ranger]

I need to replace the drivers side radius arm mount on my 86 B2, i was hoping it would get through winter but i dont think it will...its rotting behind the bushing.

Anyways...i ordered a new mount and bushing...but im wondering if i replace the drivers bushing only will it throw the caster off and have it drive like shit?

Or should i just use the old bushing if it comes out in one piece and wait till spring and do both sides like i plan on doing anyways?

EDIT....

I realize caster isnt really a thing with these but my thinking is a fresh bushing isnt gonna "smash" as bad as the old one so in theory it could toss the caster off compared to the passenger side

 

[Blmpkn]

.... Your gonna drive that poor thing through the salt?

Someone go take this man's keys!

I'd do both at the same time though.. might as well.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

.... Your gonna drive that poor thing through the salt?

Someone go take this man's keys!

I'd do both at the same time though.. might as well.

Lol....trust me salts not gonna make it any worse then it already is.

I guess ill see how it goes...the bushings on it dont really look that bad, i was just hoping not to screw with it to much untill spring..but that mount needs it.

I got a mountain of other, non RBV junk to fix before winter.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Has it been aligned lately?

It might actually make things better if it hasn't.

I would do both bushings now while you are there. I hate going back into somewhere I just was to do more than I could have easily done when it was all just apart.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Has it been aligned lately?

It might actually make things better if it hasn't.

I would do both bushings now while you are there. I hate going back into somewhere I just was to do more than I could have easily done when it was all just apart.

I have no idea when it was last aligned. But i do know the tires are wearing perfectly even and i can take my hand off the wheel and itll run perfectly straight down the road. It literally drives like new lol.


Eh maybe ill just aim to do both at same time. The passenger mount is still good so atleast theres that

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’d do both at the same time and hope it keeps things even, lol

 

[scotts90ranger]

I think you're over thinking it, Do what you can and it'll work, if someone has pulled the radius arm crossmember before and there's bolts instead of rivets then it's pretty easy, by far the easiest way to change the bushings, if they're riveted then it's a pain...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Personally I’d use this opportunity as an excuse to do a 2” lift and long-arm it…

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I think you're over thinking it, Do what you can and it'll work, if someone has pulled the radius arm crossmember before and there's bolts instead of rivets then it's pretty easy, by far the easiest way to change the bushings, if they're riveted then it's a pain...

This is whats strange too....

Mine has both bolts AND rivets in it. Atleast drivers side....havent looked at passenger.

And yeah...last set i did was on my 77...i just did the bushings...i didnt remove brackets and it was a massive pain in the ass.

Personally I’d use this opportunity as an excuse to do a 2” lift and long-arm it…

I do at some point in the future plan on a 2inch lift. Probably some 31s and if i really feel like it swapping in some junkyard 4.10s

 

[scotts90ranger]

Factory setup is two vertical bolts and two rivets from the side. The vertical bolts have a plate between them so no nut on the back.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

@rusty ol ranger , that’s basically where I was headed with my 88 Bronco II, a 2” suspension lift, 1” body lift, extended arms (I got a set mostly built, it needs plated yet), I was going to stay 3.73 and 30” tires but I’m seriously considering a little nip n tuck on the front fenders, 4.10 gears, 31” tires

 

[19Walt93]

Do both sides and then get it aligned by someone old enough to be familiar with TTB. Request everything set to the preferred spec and get a printout so you can confirm it. If everything is "in the green" it could still eat tires- for example- max allowable toe in combined with max positive camber would wipe the outside tread off the tires.
Letting go of the steering wheel isn't a valid test- it might indicate both sides are equally out of spec. NH crowns the roads, letting go of the wheel gets you a drift to the right, if you do it in the left lane the drift is left.
I'm probably alone here but I'd never lift a vehicle unless it was for off roading, it raises the center of gravity which degrades handling and often causes driveline vibrations and U joint/ CV joint failures.

 

[scotts90ranger]

That is a valid question there, the rear driveline, does it have U joints or CV joints like a car? Chances are by now the CV shaft has been replaced with conventional...

 

[rusty ol ranger]

That is a valid question there, the rear driveline, does it have U joints or CV joints like a car? Chances are by now the CV shaft has been replaced with conventional...

Its been changed to a regular shaft....pretty recently it looks like

Do both sides and then get it aligned by someone old enough to be familiar with TTB. Request everything set to the preferred spec and get a printout so you can confirm it. If everything is "in the green" it could still eat tires- for example- max allowable toe in combined with max positive camber would wipe the outside tread off the tires.
Letting go of the steering wheel isn't a valid test- it might indicate both sides are equally out of spec. NH crowns the roads, letting go of the wheel gets you a drift to the right, if you do it in the left lane the drift is left.
I'm probably alone here but I'd never lift a vehicle unless it was for off roading, it raises the center of gravity which degrades handling and often causes driveline vibrations and U joint/ CV joint failures.

I dont know where id even go for a TTB alignment. Plus...honestly i usually avoid alignments anyways....they always wanna rebuild the front end first.

@rusty ol ranger , that’s basically where I was headed with my 88 Bronco II, a 2” suspension lift, 1” body lift, extended arms (I got a set mostly built, it needs plated yet), I was going to stay 3.73 and 30” tires but I’m seriously considering a little nip n tuck on the front fenders, 4.10 gears, 31” tires

I kinda like how mine sits factory height with the 235\75s, but my front springs are shot anyways....and the rear aint far behind....so might as well.

I got 3.45s now....i know id need to regear lol

 

[Shran]

I would do both sides.

Not that it matters here but I always remove the spring, loosen the bolts that hold the arm onto the beam and then pivot the whole thing out of the crossmember, slip new bushings on, and reassemble. But I never get lucky enough to work on trucks that have had the crossmember replaced....... usually they are still riveted in, or ripped apart and the radius arm is dangling.