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Since you've verified no CAT blockage I would concentrate on fuel pressure. It should not take several cycles to build pressure. When did you last change fuel filter? I would also confirm compression as one of those basic checks.

Codes, scan data?

You should have said "God bless CORPORATE America profits." I think God wants us to support China given the amount of products our "patriotic" corporate leaders have them manufacture.

Where was the borescope made?

Rich bank 2 and 1, Bank 2 is worse. I have a LTFT of around 29% Just to clarify. Do you mean +29% or -29%? A rich condition would show computer subtracting fuel = -29%.

It appears that the OP did allow the original shop ample opportunity to make good - "Still leaks!!!" An affidavit should not be a problem as a short note on the repair receipt would suffice. What I find is most people are afraid to seek damages from small claims and just eat the shop's...

Yea, that's a competent shop. The OP has the legal right to go to another shop (does he really want to stick with this one?) and get this fixed right, AND sue for the money spent on the leaks not fixed. Looks like he's given them enough of a chance to make it right.

Take the shop to small claims court to get your money back. Small claims is easy and cheap, no lawyer required. Make sure you document evidence to present in court, pictures, paperwork etc.

Testing a battery after just running the engine will give a false assessment. You need to wait several hours. Have you considered a parasitic drain? Starter should be accessible from below.

That's why I stay away from FleaBay. I've never had a problem with Amazon even if the seller is a jerk.

That's what I'm thinking. Got 4 qrts of the oil for free, don't want to waste it.

Search did not succeed. I have some Valvoline 75w-90 full synthetic gear oil with slip aditive. Manual calls for 80w-90 in differential, but lots of talk about the 75w-90 being perfectly OK. I have 7.5 gears. Any knowledgeable advise? Thanks

Sorry to get back so late as I was out of town. The "poor Quality" were machining chips in the sealed plastic bag the syncro came in. They were not cleaned off prior to packaging. As well the reaming, which normally should leave an accurate smooth surface was very rough. I ended up emailing...

I set my temp switch using an installed digital gauge and sender to replace the basic factory gauge. So when the rad outlet temp gets to my 195* setting the fan comes on. You could use the ECT sensor reading that I think you said your scanner can do. Start with low temp and work your way up for...

That's your problem - get out of Alberta. :D

Ok, good to know. I'm still going to pull some fuses tomorrow and see where the drain is just to make sure it's nothing I did. Went to Advance Auto and got a new battery under warranty. Initial charge is 12.79v I'll see what it is in the morning.

Last night the battery voltage was 12.3v and this morning was 12.27v. I did a long parasitic draw test and could only get down to 27mA. Much better but not to 5mA. I'll get the wife's help later to look at the meter while I unplug fuses at the inside fuse panel. Removing the small wires at the...

I went back and forth about where to locate the temp sensor but finally decided I only cared about the temp after the rad because if the rad was cooling I don't need the fan on. As well my Camry has the fan switch in the lower hose.

Thanks for all the info. I'm going to have to be more patient with DMM hooked up. I'm going to fashion a jumper wire with a switch so I can then use the DMM with no break in the current flow. The battery is less than a year old so I think once I understand my parasitic I'll get a new one under...