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Any input on my assumption that this is either from the crank or timing gear?

here are some photos

Yeah, that is the exact spec I have I found in the guide online and used it. It was a 2 part torque spec and I did it to all of the rockers. So over the weekend I removed the oil pan and installed all new rod bearings fearing I had rod knock due to oil starvation or improper installation. I...

Update: I went back in, tightened all the lifters, and rechecked the ones I did last time. The ticking is still there and at this point, my only thought is that one or more rod bearings have spun or have failed. I pulled the spark plugs on bank 1 and found cylinder 2 had a bent strap to the...

So I removed the vavle cover and got a 8m Helicoil kit for the repair. I drilled out the hole and put the helicoil in and was able to get its torqued down properly. Unfortunately I still have the same noise but I had previously found a lose lifter on the other head. I'm going to remove the...

So I just got done and took her for a drive. I still have a heavy ticking noise, I replaced the valve seal on the cylinder that had the hung exhaust valve. I did like you said and put rope in the sparkplug hole and the valve after a full inspection was not bent. I changed the rocker arm bolt...

So this morning I put my inspection camera in #3 cylinder and checked for damage or marks from a valve kissing the piston. There are no marks at all on the piston, I tried using my compression tester on the same cylinder and for some reasonnI can't get the fitting for the tester to screw into...

Update, I was in the process of installing my new rods and lifter when I came to the exhaust valve for #3. I was tightening each rocker till I came to zero lash, but on this rocker I had to tightening the screw all the way down but the rocker was still loose. So I swapped the rocker with another...

Thank you for this information, I did my engine rebuild from a manual I found online, and nowhere in the manual did it cover the information you just shared with me. So during assembly, I torqued the rocker arms to the spec and that was it. I also used the preexisting rods, lifters, and rocker...

I prime the motor by depressing the accelerator and turning the key for about 15 seconds 3 times. I'm not sure how I would have seen if oil was coming out of the pushrods without leaving the valve covers off. I'm not trying to be funny but the manual I was using never suggested leaving the valve...

Man that sucks, so replacing the rods and lifters isn't a guarantee.

When I reinstalled the rocker and rods I looked for the Valve lash however due to this motor using roller lifters I couldn't find anything. From what I read roller lifters don't have to be lashed, is that right?

10-4 The motor hasn't had an oil change since the motor was rebuilt however it has only been run probably less than 30 miles in total. I really don't want to replace the lifters if it is a viscosity issue with the oil. I also have a smell of gas in my oil but that seems to be common on a rebuild...

I replaced the oil pump, I don't have a real oil pressure gauge just the dummy light in the truck. I did replace the oil pressure send unit though. I would think if it's oil pressure wouldn't all the lifters be ticking?

Good afternoon, I'm trying to find anyone who can help me diagnose an issue that I'm having with my rebuilt 3.0. For reference, I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 2wd 3.0 V6. I recently rebuilt the motor and took it for its first drive in almost 4 months, the issue I'm having is what sounds like a lifter...